Patrick said:
Steve,
Your memory and expirences are quite different from mine. I remember
growing up in the early 70's when it was milestone for any car to
reach 100,000 miles.
No Chrysler engine that I, my parents, or my grandparents owned between
1949 and today lasted LESS than 150,000 miles with one exception: the
piece of VW junk in a '78 Horizon. Even the 1949 Plymouth Coupe that I
own (originally my grandfather's car) has over 200,000 miles, albeit
with an engine rebuild in 1964 (I have his receipts). Of course that
engine doesn't even have a full-flow oil filter. Of those 20-odd cars
owned, I can think of the following that exceeded 200,000 miles, plus a
few Fords that will go un-named:
1) 1963 Valiant station wagon- slant six, wouldn't surprise me if its
still out there running somewhere
2) 1966 Plymouth Satellite, 361 engine. May have only had about 190k
when sold in the fall of '72 in trade for #4 below.
3) 1966 Dodge Polara (I still own it) 268,000 miles on a 383
4) 1973 Satellite with a 318 (I still drive it daily) 430,000 miles on a
318, minor overhaul at 200k miles.
5) 1983 Gran Fury (Dad's car, bought used from the highway patrol)
210,000 miles when traded in on:
6) 1992 Dakota (Dad's farm truck, 5.2L Magnum engine) 200,000 miles and
(despite my bitching) he's never bothered to change the transmission
fluid. Still plugging away.
7) 1993 Eagle Vison- 210,000 miles on a 3.5L v6, but will likely never
see 300k.
Yes, my expirences and memory recall
the lifespan of engines in the 60's-70's being significantly shorter
than the engines in the modern fuel-injected era.
The more important difference was 1960s era OIL. Take a '66 383, rebuild
it BONE STOCK, and it'll run a half million miles when fed modern oils.
And to a degree you are right that fuel injection is easier on an engine
than a carb, especially in cold/enriched conditions where a carb can
wash oil off cylinder walls. But I did already acknowledge the advantage
of EFI.
Carter Thermoquads, Holley two-barrels, ballast resistors, water
pumps, starters, and voltage regulators are just a few things I
remember always failing on old Chryslers.
Sorry, some of that is just dead wrong, and I should know because I
drive a '73 EVERY DAY. I've replaced precisely ONE ballast resistor on
my '73 since 1980, and maybe 2 voltage regulators (at a whopping $15
each). And the Carter Thermoquad I put on it 5 years ago hasn't been off
of it since. And yes, Thermoquads ARE maintenance hogs- the Carter AFB
it had before the TQ has never had to be opened AT ALL and would work
perfectly if I bolted it back on the car today. I'm running the TQ just
for grins, and it does give about 3 mpg more than the AFB.
Besides- the most expensive thing you named (starter) is still under
$150, compared to >$300 for crummy plastic fuel rails on a modern car..
"Crap like Toyota" Huh? Toyota is, and has been for years, the
automotive gold standard.
For "disposable cars" that is true. You can buy a Toyota or Honda and be
almost 100% assured of getting 3-5 years and 100k miles out of it
(although a Toyota may well need a new engine at 80k miles these days
due to oiling failure). Try to keep it 20 years and >200k miles though,
and its a lost cause. Massive organ failure at ~150k miles is a
certainty. Planned obsolescence at its best.
60's engine design was hit or miss, at best. Trial and error was the
rule. In contrast, today's engineers using computer design can find
an engine's weakness before they even build one.
Just because '60s engineers used slide-rules instead of laptops and 3D
CAD workstations doesn't mean they couldn't predict and eliminate
weaknesses. Its been my observation that heavy reliance on CAD has
resulted in MORE lemon designs (2.0 head gaskets, Toyota
sludge-monsters, head-destroying Ford 5.4L Tritons, GM oil/antifreeze
mixing v6es, etc. etc.) than EVER happened in the 60s. Go ahead- NAME me
a '60s engine that made it out the doors with a huge reliability problem
like the Toyota sludgers...
Attention to material? Like the cheap vinyl they used in the
interiors?
For one thing, what engine parts are made of vinyl (since that's what
we're talking about)?
And for a reality check, the vinyl on my '66 looks almost as new as it
did nearly 40 years ago. Its the cheap interior plastic on the 93 that
is already falling apart.
Like the cheap chrome trim that peeled and/or pitted?
In whose dreams?? 60s chrome actually contained CHROME! In measurable
thicknesses!
The 318 was okay, but the 360 never impressed me. The 360 had a big
sloppy crank, a weak cam, and crappy heads. Chrysler's best small
block WAS the 340.
Your credibility is beginning to falter. The 360 has the SAME cam as the
318. And it used the SAME EXACT head casting as the late-production 340.
And yes the 340 was by far the most POWERFUL Chrysler small-block, but
it also used exactly the same forged 3.31" stroke crankshaft as the
4-bbl 273 and truck version of the 318. The 360 crank "sloppy?" In what
way? It was built as a pseudo-big-block, and so it has a longer stroke
and bigger main bearings than a 318 or 340, but how does that make it
"sloppy?" It gives it more low-end torque than a 383, but hardly "sloppy".
Because they're all obsolete.
Reliability is never obsolete.