transistorized voltage regulator?

Please bear with me for a moment as I talke about non-MoPars... I have
a '62 Studebaker that came stock from the factory with an Autolite
generator. I'd like to convert to an alternator as I've been told that
it is required for a Pertronix module (is that because a generator's
voltage is too "dirty?" I dunno) and also would like to install a
decent-ish stereo at some point. I picked up an alternator from a '65
Stude at a swap meet (correct for 63-66) and have been told that the
regulator to go with it is the same as a late 60's MoPar. (see, I was
getting to the point eventually.) Is there a better transistorized
replacement for that regulator or am I stuck with points? The
alternator is a Prestolite, and I believe the number is ALE-5001
although I may be off a digit or two. It's a 35 amp unit, anyway.

thanks,

nate

(adjusted too many regulators, not having fun.)

PS - I trial fit the alternator today. Looks like it will fit right on
but I have to slot the mounting bracket where it bolts to the exhaust
manifold (or get a pass. side exhaust manifold for a 63-64 Stude) to get
the belt perfectly aligned. Then I reinstalled the generator. It was
working perfectly before. Now i'm getting like 10V with the lights on -
but only at the dash, at the battery and regulator it is fine! HOW can
R&Ring the generator cause some funky under-dash wiring problem? ARGH!

 

I don't have any answers for you, Nate, but to avoid any confusion, just
be aware that the auto manufacturers are now using the term "generator"
(in the FSM and other official documentation) for what you and I know as
an "alternator". No big deal - just thought you ought to know in case
you ran across something you knew to be an alternator being referred to
as a generator.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

I believe when you go to buy the regulator you will find they are all
electronic now. I just bought one for my '68 Newport since I am going
on a 1200 mile trip at the end of the month. Cost about $15 and was
on the shelf at the parts store.

Steve B.

 

They are not. You can still buy the points type -- all three varieties for
'60-'69 Mopars (standard duty, heavy duty, heavy duty adjustable).

DS

 

Does the alternator use a single field terminal or a dual field
terminals? "Late 60s Chrysler regulator" could refer to either type and
they're different.

I'm assuming its the earlier single-wire field type alternator. Beware
that many regulators still sold for that application (Borg Warner, for
example) are still the old vibrator type, and my experience is that
people have forgotten how to make a vibrator type regulator these days
(they don't last ANY time- fail in weeks!). Wells and others do make a
solid state replacement. You can get the Wells type at Autozone. Its
identifiable by the fact that its about 1/3 as thick as a mechanical
version and not painted black. I think the P/N is VR706.

If its an alternator with two field terminals, the VR for any 73-77
Mopar will work.

 

Couldn't.

The dual-field system was introduced for '70.

Donno where you're buying 'em. The Echlin ones I buy work great,
especially the VR34/VR35 ultra heavy duty units (one of these, I don't
recall which, has a convenient external voltage adjustment screw).

The Wells VR706 transistorized regulators (at least the ones I used to buy
10 years ago and the ones I saw last week in a parts store in Michigan)
looks exactly like the standard-duty points-type regulator -- same
thickness and it is painted black. This is the regulator I've had the
*most* trouble from. I will not buy another.

About the only electronic regulator for the single-field system that seems
to me to be worth a tinker's dam is the Echlin VR-1001. This is the same
regulator as the Mopar Performance "blue box", but without the
ground-eliminating blue epoxy coating on the mounting ears.

DS

 

Use a Napa VR38 (mopar replacement) electronic reg. (1970 to 1989)
Possibly the AMC Motorola VR1004 or VR1005 would also be useable -
but more complex wiring.

 

Bzzt. That is a dual-field regulator that will not work with Nate's
single-field alternator. Pay attention to what you're reading.

DS

 

It is a single field. thanks for the reply.

nate

 

Every mechanical regulator I've purchased in the last 10 years has
failed withiin a year. Here, our experiences differ completely.

Then my memory was wrong, and VR 706 is indeed NOT the correct number
for the Wells electronic regulator, but is instead their low-cost
mechanical regulator. Wells's electronic version is:
- bare metal
- about 1/3 as thick as an OEM
- absolutely bulletproof reliable (in my experience).

 

No, your memory is correct -- Wells VR706 *is* a transistorized regulator.
They no longer offer a mechanical regulator for this application.

Description sounds like Echlin VR-1001 -- does this Wells regulator you're
talking about have a terminated wire for the field hookup, or a spade
terminal on the regulator box itself?

DS

 

Daniel J. Stern wrote:

Terminals on the box itself, just like a stocker.

But since I don't even have a P/N for it handy, I'd recommend the OP to
just go get the Echlin unit. The only reason I wound up at Autobone
buying a Wells was because NAPA didn't have anything but low-end
mechanical regulators in stock and I didn't want to wait for them to
order me one (this was back before I discovered napaonline.com). I have
recommended the Wells ever since because its been so reliable.

 

Exactly what do you mean by dual field?
I assume you mean "isolated field" or external ground where both ends
of the field are brought out of the alternator - and power is fed to
one side, and the regulator grounds the other side - can also be
connected with regulator feeding the alternator field, and the
alternator externally grounded.

In that case, yes, you are right - that regulator will not work for
applications with an internally grounded alternator. My mistake.
The correct regulator would be the VR32, VR34, or VR35.
The VR35 is adjustable.

 

Exactly the same thing everyone else means when they denote the '70-up
Chrysler charging system as compared to the '60-'69 system ("single
field").

Yes, you do.

Now: Are you also one of these who says "Well, *actually*, when you ask
for shock absorbers, I assume you mean *spring dampers*, because the
springs *are* the shock absorbers..."?

DS

 

For several years, if I wanted "shock absorbers" I had to ask for
Dampers. That was during my stint in "the colonies"
In the trade here in Canada we referred to the mopar alternators as
either grounded field, isolated field, or insulated field.
Can't remember if the square back was referred to as insulated and the
round as isolated, or the other way around. One was supplied with an
optional strap to allow it to be used in place of the grounded, or
single-wire field unit.

 

You're a little confused. I'll clarify for you using your own terminology:

Grounded field: All alternator-equipped passenger cars and trucks exc.
models with heavy-duty Leece Neville alternator, '60-'69. Some trucks
'70-'71. These were all roundbacks. 1ea 1/4" male-blade field terminal.
Used with standard-duty electromechanical regulator 2098300 or heavy-duty
adjustable electromechanical regulator 2444980.

Isolated field: 1969 Imperial models only. 2ea 1/4" male-blade field
terminals. Used with 3-pin electronic regulator 2875400. These were
roundbacks with a specially modified rear housing.

Insulated field: 1970-up, all passenger cars and most trucks; 1972-up, all
passenger cars and trucks. 1970-'71 alternators were roundbacks with new
rear housing, 1972-up small-frame alternators were squarebacks, 1978-up
small-frame alternators were squarebacks with shorter front-to-back
dimension due to revised stator and housing fitment. Used with electronic
2-pin regulator 3438150 (and nine subsequent part numbers). 2ea 1/4"
male-blade field terminals. Can be used in grounded-field applications by
grounding either field terminal. CANNOT be used in isolated-field
applications without rewiring to accept 2-pin regulator.

DS