torqueflite 727, need help still...

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by cjboater, Oct 31, 2006.

  1. cjboater

    cjboater Guest

    Thanks for all the replies in the previous post. most suggestions tried
    to no avail. Looking for a recmendation for a mopar competent trans
    rebuilder in the atlanta, ga area, hoping that someone could refer me
    to one. If there is a friend out there, I've taken quite a bite in $
    and time on this and someone willing to help a guy out with a great
    price would be very cool.

    Also, any suggestion on simple reliable upgrades would be appreciated.
    Looking for snappy firm shifts at decent rpm point and unquestionable
    reliability. This is an 83 lockup 727 from a jeep grand wagoneer, had
    the 360 v8 up front.

    Thanks so much in advance....again.
    Chris

    Extra credit:
    For the'83 360 V8 there is 1 rectangular weight spotwelded on the
    flexplate on the tranny side. Does anyone know if the weight needs to
    be there on an 85 258 inline 6? For balancing purpose I assume, sure
    made aligning the converter bolts a hastle.

    Thanks again!
     
    cjboater, Oct 31, 2006
    #1
  2. cjboater

    sqdancerLynn Guest

    Not sure if the 6 requires a balance weight Don't think so. IT would be
    different from the 360 weight anyway. I always used the B&M 360 LA
    flexplate with the balance built in - NO balance weight on the converter
    Trying to remember your last post? You had the Lokar throdle pressure
    cable. I hope you installed it correct IT comes in from the rear of the
    trans Not like the standard linkage from the engine side. Last 727/360 I
    had would leave about 50ft of rubber when shifted to second gear -
    street/strip shift kit
     
    sqdancerLynn, Oct 31, 2006
    #2
  3. cjboater

    DeserTBoB Guest

    He did a driveway rebuild and now has a bad pattern with low TV
    pressure (high shift points and soft 1-2), had taken out a shuttle
    ball or two with a Fairbanks kit, and no word as to which bushing were
    replaced...reused old bands, etc.

    It's going to have to be torn down and done right.
     
    DeserTBoB, Oct 31, 2006
    #3
  4. cjboater

    cjboater Guest


    Have had big improvement in most areas, just still not right. Early
    shift on 1-2 that is soft and not that quick. Early shift on 2-3 that
    is very slow, with slip between leaving solid 2nd and finally getting
    to solid 3rd, 3-5 seconds shift (time). Though, if shifted at about
    1950-2000 rpm it will shift pretty quickly and firmly, no more no less
    rpm. When cruising 3rd gear at 30-40 mph or so it seems as though a
    band is grabbing for a split second every now and then, like a very
    brief braking effect of the driveline that I feel. Still feels a little
    bit "bogged down" overall but much improved from earlier postings. From
    nuetral to reverse the shift is slow to take effect and not that firm
    when it engages, between the tcase and 4.56s the old shift to r was
    jarring to say the least, now pretty soft. While it all operates now,
    it just isnt all there. The valve body has been replaced, converter is
    new, tv valve cable installed correctly (still), the shift kit has been
    totally removed and back to stock configurations, Still have the 5:1
    apply lever in, the 1-2 accumulator spring and the spring between the
    case and the valve body were taken back out trying to firm up shifts.
    Everything externally is correct, everything internally seems to be
    correct. This isnt my first rodeo, I'm very apt mechanic, built,
    destroyed and rebuilt crazy stuff. Just never automatic trannys,
    especially mopar. Rebuild a strait trans is no problem, makes me want
    my t-176 back. Just running out of time and anti frustration pills in
    this too long going process. Figure find a good shop and beg for a deal
    on a trans thats what I want.
    Still taking suggestions though, as its not getting better by itself
    before I get it correct.
    Man I would love to have a trans sthat shifts so quick and firm it
    almost hurts. Maybe grab up a little second gear on the 35's. Crawls
    effortlessly at 700 rpm idle, but can still manage to stop it on a
    steep downhill in 1L. Locks up firmly for maximum cruise speed of 65.
    And doesn't have a clutch pedal.


    Thanks again for any help.
    Chris

    So maybe y'all think ziz off the flexplate weight too huh?:) Was
    pretty much planning on it anyway.
     
    cjboater, Nov 1, 2006
    #4
  5. cjboater

    cjboater Guest

    Wanna come to atl for a couple days and make mine act like that? I
    got a fold out and beer. Just kidding, but must be nice!
     
    cjboater, Nov 1, 2006
    #5
  6. cjboater

    DeserTBoB Guest

    That's low TV pressure. Are you SURE you hooked up that cable
    correctly? It comes from the REAR, NOT the front, with that setup, as
    someone else, I think Glenn, already stated. It could be you're
    working the TV valve backward, which would explain a lot.
     
    DeserTBoB, Nov 1, 2006
    #6
  7. cjboater

    cjboater Guest

    Yes I'm sure its correct. I don't know how many times I've answered
    this question. However, as poor as the lokar instructions are I can see
    the possibility for confusion, but would it possible to mount it wrong?
    I would not know how or where to mount to make it come from the front.

    But just to be real clear: With the motor off the tv accuator arm sits
    at about 2/3 way foward. With motor running (idle) the arm returns all
    the way foward with line pressure. With the carb at WOT the arm is just
    short of all the way back, I'm talkin about JUST short.

    Thanks again guys.

    Still no shop reccomendation?
     
    cjboater, Nov 2, 2006
    #7
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