TECH: 1997 Chrysler Concorde 3.5 Overheating

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by fredsmythson, Dec 14, 2005.

  1. fredsmythson

    fredsmythson Guest

    I have a 1997 Chrysler Concorde with a 3.5 V6 and 120000 miles that
    recently developed an engine overheating problem. When I was driving on
    the freeway, the
    temp gauge went to hot and the temp warning light went
    on. I stopped at a gas station and bought some anti-freeze.
    I filled up the reservoir tank and started driving
    again on the freeway. It seemed to do fine for about five
    minutes on the freeway, and then the same thing
    happened - gauge went to hot/warning light. The weird thing was that
    there were no
    anti-freeze leaks. But, I just noticed that trans
    fluid has started leaking from the lower radiator trans
    lines. So, the reservoir cap and the thermostat will be easy to
    replace, so that is covered. How can you tell if a waterpump is bad on
    this model? The trans fluid leak at the radiator makes me think it
    might be a radiator problem. Another clue was a few months before the
    overheating problem, the heater would intermittently blow cold air. I
    wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions before I dived into this
    one. Thanks!
     
    fredsmythson, Dec 14, 2005
    #1
  2. fredsmythson

    fweddybear Guest

    At that many miles, I would not only replace the thermostat, but flush
    out the whole cooling system and replace with the proper mixture of
    antifreeze and water. This will solve your overheating problem along with
    the system blowing cold air. As for your leaking transmission fluid by the
    lower radiator line, I would check and tighten (slightly) the bolt that
    connects to the radiator. Be careful not to overtighten. If this doesn't
    work, it may be time to replace the rubber seal or washer thats inside where
    the bolt is. This should take care of your leaky tranny fluid.

    Good Luck,

    Fwed
     
    fweddybear, Dec 14, 2005
    #2
  3. fredsmythson

    Steve Guest

    The water pump on the 3.5 is driven by the timing belt. At 120k, its due
    for a timing belt, a new water pump, new thermostat, new radiator hoses,
    and a cooling system flush and fresh coolant if it hasn't been done before.

    Its possible that the water pump impeller is slipping on its shaft and
    not circulating coolant properly. Its possible that the thermostat is
    stuck closed or partly closed. Its even possible that the radiator is
    partially plugged. I'm betting ont he water pump.

    Also, once one of these engines gets low on coolant, its MANDATORY that
    you open the air bleeder (on the thermostat housing) while filling with
    fresh coolant in order to clear all the air pockets out of the cylinder
    heads. The first-generation 3.5 is pretty tough and will take a lot of
    abuse, but it does have aluminum heads and they WILL warp if you
    continue to drive it with trapped air in the cooling system.

    The transmission fluid leak is almost certainly unrelated to the engine
    overheating. These cars are known to sometimes develop fluid leaks at
    those hoses, and the hoses should be replaced when leaking is found
    (assuming its not just a loose clamp at the point where the rubber hose
    attaches to the radiator).
     
    Steve, Dec 14, 2005
    #3
  4. fredsmythson

    Joe Guest

    Losing coolant without leaks is sometimes caused by a blown head gasket. If
    you've got a blown head gasket, you may want to avoid, rather than complete,
    the necessary timing belt maintenance depending on your financial plans. You
    might want to think about figuring that out first.
     
    Joe, Dec 15, 2005
    #4
  5. fredsmythson

    fredsmythson Guest

    I first poured coolant in the themostat housing to fill up the engine
    block and then filled up the recover tank. I installed a new thermostat
    and put everything back together. I started it up and waited for the
    engine to get to operating temperature. Then I opened the air bleeder
    value at the thermostat housing to get the air bubbles out of the
    cooling system. I took it out for a five mile drive on the city roads
    and the freeway. Seemed to be running cooler than before. Concorde
    rides again! First time I've seen a thermostat go bad... Thanks for
    your help!
     
    fredsmythson, Jan 1, 2006
    #5
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