Successful mod for using angle-base headlight bulbs in LH cars

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bill Putney
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Bill Putney

If any of you are interested in substituting angle-base 9006 bulbs, I
successfully designed and performed a mod to an LH-car headlight
assembly that allows the use of angle-base bulbs. See
http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm2.showMessage?topicID=543.topic

As I stated there, I will put together a how-to with photos in the
coming week.

Based on repeated advice from Daniel Stern, I decided I wanted to change
to Sylvania XtraVision™ bulbs. Problem is, they are only made in the
usual angle base, but they won't fit the headlight assemblies of the
300M, Concorde, and LHS (my understanding is that the angle-base bulbs
will fit the Intrepids without mods?). These vehicles are made to
accept only straight-base bulbs. That limits you to the OEM bulb and
Sylvania SilverStars™ (which Daniel Stern adamantly recommends against),
and possibly a few other aftermarket bulbs.

Problem is solved.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")
 
If any of you are interested in substituting angle-base 9006 bulbs, I
successfully designed and performed a mod to an LH-car headlight
assembly that allows the use of angle-base bulbs. See
http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm2.showMessage?topicID=543.topic
Click to expand...

Interesting mod, looks like good work.

General Electric, in about 3 weeks, is introducing a new line of headlamp
bulbs to be called "Night Hawk". Their engineers are making the rather
lofty claim that these new bulbs will be the world's best. They're
positioning them in the market opposite Sylvania SilverStar and Wagner
TruView, *BUT*, unlike those two products, the GE items will use CLEAR
glass, without any kind of performance-reducing tint. I'm due to receive
some samples to test in about 2 weeks and will discuss my findings here.

Regardless of how the new GE product works out, with this mod you can now
use the Sylvania (Xtravision) 9006 or Philips/Narva (RangePower) 9005 and
9006 high-efficiency bulbs...and if you want significantly more high beam
punch, you can use HIR1 (9011) bulbs in place of 9005.

See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/

DS
 
Looking forward to the "how to". My '99 300m lights are not bright enough
for these tired old eyes.

Gramps
 
Daniel said:
Interesting mod, looks like good work.

General Electric, in about 3 weeks, is introducing a new line of headlamp
bulbs to be called "Night Hawk". Their engineers are making the rather
lofty claim that these new bulbs will be the world's best. They're
positioning them in the market opposite Sylvania SilverStar and Wagner
TruView, *BUT*, unlike those two products, the GE items will use CLEAR
glass, without any kind of performance-reducing tint. I'm due to receive
some samples to test in about 2 weeks and will discuss my findings here.

Regardless of how the new GE product works out, with this mod you can now
use the Sylvania (Xtravision) 9006 or Philips/Narva (RangePower) 9005 and
9006 high-efficiency bulbs...and if you want significantly more high beam
punch, you can use HIR1 (9011) bulbs in place of 9005.

See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/

DS
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pass the info. about the Night Hawks and
HIR1 as well as the bmwz.org link (referencing you as the source of the
info.) along to the 300M ezBoard.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")
 
Daniel said:
...See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/
Click to expand...

Daniel,

What do you think of the H1R1 (high beam) and H1R2 (low beam)
alternatives shown in the link you posted? Same wattage ratings as the
9005 and 9006 respectively, a lot more light with a slight sacrifice in
life. Does higher brightness automatically equal more aggravation for
oncoming drivers?

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")
 
Jim said:
Looking forward to the "how to". My '99 300m lights are not bright enough
for these tired old eyes.

Gramps
Click to expand...

Hmmm - somehow missed your post until just now, Jim.

It will probably be another week on the how-to. Will be in the form of
photos with comments on fotki.com - will post a link when done.

Basically, though, you remove the three screws and cut a path for the
bulb housing in the understructure including removing the one screw
post, then glue the two black rings together (paying attention of where
*not* to put it that will interfere with proper assy.) with a very good
epoxy especialy made for plastics: VersaChem Plastic Welding System (P/N
47809) - on the glues and goops aisle of your auto parts store, then cut
the composite retainer ring (the two black rigns glued together).

The value of the how-to will mostly be in showing where to make the cuts
without removing critical features so you don't have to study it so hard
and possibly make a mistake. You can determine that pretty well from
the existing photos posted on the ezBoard, but it's really critical
placing of the cut in the black rings to the right side of the bulb
housing (need to make sure you leave enough of the bump on the inner
ring that contacts the outer ring in that area - hint: the cut will go
thru the center of that bump so that half the bump will disappear in the
v-cut waste material, the other half will remain).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")
 
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