Rear Door Auto Latch - 2000 Concorde LXi

[jaygreg (archive)]

About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice on opening that door.

 

[Bill Putney]

About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice on opening that door.

All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually). But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).

 

[Joe Pfeiffer]

About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice on opening that door.

It sure sounds like the latch -- if it were the switch or a fuse, pulling up on the manual lock would work. When it's happened to me (those latches are a real weak point on that vehicle -- we've got a 2000 Intrepid and my best recollection is I've replaced every door latch, and the rear driver side twice) I may have had to spend quite a while wiggling the lock, inside handle, and outside handle before it finally worked One Last Time.

 

[jaygreg (archive)]

All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually). But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).

But how do I get the door open now?

 

[Bill Putney]

But how do I get the door open now?

That is a good question. Unless someone else knows the answer to that, I believe I'd be hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch and the manual lock/unlock button. I would also try a series of all hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and unlock hits to try to jog it loose - just be ready to stop at the first successful unlock so you don't go back to the locked position before you can get the door open and change it out. Not sure which series would be best to start with. Also hit the outside of the door and the inside panel with your fist as hard as you dare without causing sheet metal or plastic damage.

Also - call your local dealer - possibly they have had to deal with a similar situation and would be kind enough to make good suggestions without simply telling you to bring it in for them to look at. However, over the years on the 300M Enthusiasts Club forums (http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php), there have been a few threads with this exact problem (Concorde and 300M are exact same car in this area). Never saw a magic secret solution posted - even by the dealer tech who chimed in on one of the threads.

If this was a computer, you would just be told to "reload Windows"!

 

[Bill Putney]

One other suggestion: When you use the electric lock to try to jog it loose, do it with the engine running. That's because the system will get higher voltage (approx. 14 vs. 12 with engine off) with the engine running and so the solenoid force on the lock mechanism will be harder and might have more success in working it loose.

 

[jaygreg (archive)]

That is a good question. Unless someone else knows the answer to that, I believe I'd be hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch and the manual lock/unlock button. I would also try a series of all hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and unlock hits to try to jog it loose - just be ready to stop at the first successful unlock so you don't go back to the locked position before you can get the door open and change it out. Not sure which series would be best to start with. Also hit the outside of the door and the inside panel with your fist as hard as you dare without causing sheet metal or plastic damage.

Also - call your local dealer - possibly they have had to deal with a similar situation and would be kind enough to make good suggestions without simply telling you to bring it in for them to look at. However, over the years on the 300M Enthusiasts Club forums (http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php), there have been a few threads with this exact problem (Concorde and 300M are exact same car in this area). Never saw a magic secret solution posted - even by the dealer tech who chimed in on one of the threads.

If this was a computer, you would just be told to "reload Windows"!

unlock hits to try to jog it loose<<

Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

 

[Joe Pfeiffer]

Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

That wouldn't be a good idea -- there's a not-terribly-robust-looking linkage in there, and your goal is to jiggle until everything gets lucky.

 

[Steve B.]

Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw

driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

I would be really careful if you choose this route. The linkage is the most robust thing I've ever seen.. I think you would break something real quick with any kind of force.

Steve B.

 

[Joe Pfeiffer]

I would be really careful if you choose this route. The linkage is the most robust thing I've ever seen.. I think you would break something real quick with any kind of force.

Did you mean "not" the most robust?

 

[Bill Putney]

unlock hits to try to jog it loose<<

Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

I wasn't thinking when I wrote that. Forget the manual (mechanical) button. Just use the electric switch.

 

[jaygreg (archive)]

I wasn't thinking when I wrote that. Forget the manual (mechanical) button. Just use the electric switch.

But the electric switch does absolutely nothing to that manual but. There's no sound coming from the lock but all the remaining three buttons respond to the switch at the driver's door and/or their individual switches.

 

[Bill Putney]

But the electric switch does absolutely nothing to that manual but. There's no sound coming from the lock but all the remaining three buttons respond to the switch at the driver's door and/or their individual switches.

I think you're screwed!

Time to enter dealer hell.