Rear Door Auto Latch - 2000 Concorde LXi

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by jaygreg, Jan 3, 2009.

  1. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
    rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
    until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
    door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
    respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
    that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
    to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
    separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
    simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
    on opening that door.
     
    jaygreg, Jan 3, 2009
    #1
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  2. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually).
    But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My
    guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical
    nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).
     
    Bill Putney, Jan 3, 2009
    #2
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  3. jaygreg

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    It sure sounds like the latch -- if it were the switch or a fuse,
    pulling up on the manual lock would work. When it's happened to me
    (those latches are a real weak point on that vehicle -- we've got a
    2000 Intrepid and my best recollection is I've replaced every door
    latch, and the rear driver side twice) I may have had to spend quite a
    while wiggling the lock, inside handle, and outside handle before it
    finally worked One Last Time.
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Jan 3, 2009
    #3
  4. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    But how do I get the door open now?
     
    jaygreg, Jan 4, 2009
    #4
  5. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    That is a good question. Unless someone else knows the answer to that,
    I believe I'd be hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch
    and the manual lock/unlock button. I would also try a series of all
    hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and
    unlock hits to try to jog it loose - just be ready to stop at the first
    successful unlock so you don't go back to the locked position before you
    can get the door open and change it out. Not sure which series would be
    best to start with. Also hit the outside of the door and the inside
    panel with your fist as hard as you dare without causing sheet metal or
    plastic damage.

    Also - call your local dealer - possibly they have had to deal with a
    similar situation and would be kind enough to make good suggestions
    without simply telling you to bring it in for them to look at. However,
    over the years on the 300M Enthusiasts Club forums
    (http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php), there have been a few threads
    with this exact problem (Concorde and 300M are exact same car in this
    area). Never saw a magic secret solution posted - even by the dealer
    tech who chimed in on one of the threads.

    If this was a computer, you would just be told to "reload Windows"! :)
     
    Bill Putney, Jan 4, 2009
    #5
  6. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    One other suggestion: When you use the electric lock to try to jog it
    loose, do it with the engine running. That's because the system will
    get higher voltage (approx. 14 vs. 12 with engine off) with the engine
    running and so the solenoid force on the lock mechanism will be harder
    and might have more success in working it loose.
     
    Bill Putney, Jan 4, 2009
    #6
  7. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    unlock hits to try to jog it loose<<

    Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
    driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom
    of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?
     
    jaygreg, Jan 4, 2009
    #7
  8. jaygreg

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    That wouldn't be a good idea -- there's a not-terribly-robust-looking
    linkage in there, and your goal is to jiggle until everything gets
    lucky.
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Jan 4, 2009
    #8
  9. jaygreg

    Steve B. Guest

    Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
    I would be really careful if you choose this route. The linkage is
    the most robust thing I've ever seen.. I think you would break
    something real quick with any kind of force.

    Steve B.
     
    Steve B., Jan 4, 2009
    #9
  10. jaygreg

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    Did you mean "not" the most robust?
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Jan 4, 2009
    #10
  11. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    I wasn't thinking when I wrote that. Forget the manual (mechanical)
    button. Just use the electric switch.
     
    Bill Putney, Jan 4, 2009
    #11
  12. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    But the electric switch does absolutely nothing to that manual but.
    There's no sound coming from the lock but all the remaining three
    buttons respond to the switch at the driver's door and/or their
    individual switches.
     
    jaygreg, Jan 5, 2009
    #12
  13. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    I think you're screwed! :)

    Time to enter dealer hell.
     
    Bill Putney, Jan 5, 2009
    #13
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