I
indago
The first time I used the PT Cruiser car jack I was a little dismayed by the
high lift of the body to get the wheel off the ground. Also, the jack must
be well into the lifting points on the body or the body will slip over the
jack and distort the fender fastening, possibly even tearing the metal.
Since the object is to lift the wheel off the ground, I remodeled the
scissors jack by adding a piece of 3/16 inch by 1 1/2 inch steel to the top
of the jack. It is 8 inches long. I bolted the metal to the top of the
jack with two 1/4 - 20 button head machine screws -- plain round head
machine screws would do. They are 1/2 inch long, and have stainless steel
washers and stainless steel hex nuts. The button head screws that I used
have the allen drive recess, and are black. The metal bar is offset on the
jack -- 2 1/2 inches from center on one side. This allows the jack to be
used to lift the car by the lower control arm, just above the stabilizer
bar. Set the jack as far into the control arm as possible, and as close to
the wheel as possible. The added metal bar will be long enough to allow
full support of the control arm. I use rubber wheel chocks to keep the car
from moving while it is jacked up.
This jack can also be used under the rear axle close to the wheel.
I have a 1/2 inch T-handle drive with an inline ratchet, with a long
extension and a deep 3/4 inch socket to align the jack under the car, and
also to take the lug nuts off the wheels.
This system works well when the car is on a pavement. I don't know how it
would work if the front tire is flat on the side of the road. The front of
the car may be too low to allow positioning a jack from the front of the
car.
high lift of the body to get the wheel off the ground. Also, the jack must
be well into the lifting points on the body or the body will slip over the
jack and distort the fender fastening, possibly even tearing the metal.
Since the object is to lift the wheel off the ground, I remodeled the
scissors jack by adding a piece of 3/16 inch by 1 1/2 inch steel to the top
of the jack. It is 8 inches long. I bolted the metal to the top of the
jack with two 1/4 - 20 button head machine screws -- plain round head
machine screws would do. They are 1/2 inch long, and have stainless steel
washers and stainless steel hex nuts. The button head screws that I used
have the allen drive recess, and are black. The metal bar is offset on the
jack -- 2 1/2 inches from center on one side. This allows the jack to be
used to lift the car by the lower control arm, just above the stabilizer
bar. Set the jack as far into the control arm as possible, and as close to
the wheel as possible. The added metal bar will be long enough to allow
full support of the control arm. I use rubber wheel chocks to keep the car
from moving while it is jacked up.
This jack can also be used under the rear axle close to the wheel.
I have a 1/2 inch T-handle drive with an inline ratchet, with a long
extension and a deep 3/4 inch socket to align the jack under the car, and
also to take the lug nuts off the wheels.
This system works well when the car is on a pavement. I don't know how it
would work if the front tire is flat on the side of the road. The front of
the car may be too low to allow positioning a jack from the front of the
car.