ping glen - 1st gen LHS, engine subframe bushings

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by rob, May 24, 2008.

  1. rob

    rob Guest

    96 LHS 3.5L. all 4 engine cradle bushings are beat to hell and
    crumbling...literally. Alldata who is correct sometimes and sometimes a
    little bit off is not showing anything about the bushings being pressed into
    the engine cradle. looks fairly simple, as long as proper safety
    precautions are taken, and you make sure you get them tight enough
    afterwards. in my case I'm going to be changing an inner tie rod too and
    have already done other front end work so an alignment will most likely be
    done Tuesday morning.

    to your knowledge are the bushings pressed in ? Also any good ideas you
    have come across to make the job easier or faster?
     
    rob, May 24, 2008
    #1
  2. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    You might get something out of the post by Chewievette here:
    http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1247877#post1247877
    Keep in mind that those guys had some polyurethane bushings custom
    molded. I think the new ones come with the inner sleeves, so you
    wouldn't need to transfer those.

    Also, a search in those forums may turn up some discussion - they
    discuss replacing these bushings a lot. I've not done it on my 2nd gen.
    Concordes, but from reading the LH car forums, it seems they have
    problems with the nuts that are welded to the frames. Probably just
    depends on how much problem rust is in general in your area.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, May 24, 2008
    #2
  3. There are a total of 8 cradle bushings, upper and lower for each one. These
    bushings are not pressed in. If you purchase these from the dealer they are
    expensive. I would highly recommend soaking the bolts up at the top really
    good with some Rust penetrate that Chrysler sells. It is the best stuff I
    have ever used. If the nuts spin at the top in the frame you may have to get
    a large pry bar to wedge into the slot and try to hold the nut from
    spinning.


    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
     
    glenn beasley, May 25, 2008
    #3
  4. rob

    rob Guest

    oh joy.......penetrating oil and pry bars. just like working for CAT
    again..lol ok.

    now to find them somewhere other than dealer is going to be a challenge. so
    far everyone is telling me "no dice...go see ma mopar". and they are 62.00
    for the lowers and 65 for the uppers, so $508.00 before tax....... yee ha
     
    rob, May 25, 2008
    #4
  5. rob

    rob Guest

    thanks bill...it was very informative and looks like he's making those now.
    wonder how they feel though......
     
    rob, May 25, 2008
    #5
  6. Look at them carefully because most of the time you don't need the uppers
     
    glenn beasley, May 25, 2008
    #6
  7. rob

    rob Guest

    the left front upper I can spin with my fingers, so I am thinking it should
    be done. that and a previous oil leak I didn't know about that has soaked
    them some, plus over 132,000 miles, so I might just do them anyway.


    got a line on some that have to be ordered from some manufacturer but I'm
    waiting till the part place opens on Tuesday as they have to call their main
    office to see if they can get them from the manuf. if not then its either
    website time, or dealer. having to buy all eight is almost as much as the my
    damn stimulus check!
     
    rob, May 25, 2008
    #7
  8. rob

    maxpower Guest

    Yup, sounds like a plan

    Glenn
     
    maxpower, May 25, 2008
    #8
  9. rob

    rob Guest

    thanks dude. you da man!


     
    rob, May 25, 2008
    #9
  10. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    Is that pricing for standard (SDA or SDC) suspension or for sport (SDE)
    suspension? I ask because you can get them (OEM parts) all day long
    from on-line discount dealers for $40 each (standard) or $57 each
    (sport) (substitute shipping costs for sales tax).

    Part numbers are:
    Standard upper: 4695759
    Sport upper: 4695761

    Standard lower: 4695755
    Sport lower: 4695762

    On-line parts pdf catalogs: http://www.chryslerparts.net
    One of the on-line dealers with good pricing (there are others):
    www.1stchryslerparts.com

    Of course you may need to replace some of the metal hardware if badly
    rusted.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, May 31, 2008
    #10
  11. rob

    rob Guest

    local dealer quoted me lower 4695755 66.57 each

    and then the 4695759 upper for 62.27 each

    I contacted the parts manager at another dealer who gives us a 25% discount
    for being a member of the local mopar club, and he gave me some different
    uppers. said the were superseded by the 761's I think. they were 72.00
    each but with discount on all of them I saved about 125.00
     
    rob, May 31, 2008
    #11
  12. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    Too bad you didn't get the sports for the lowers since they do the
    "heavy lifiting". Maybe it's not too late to get the sports lowers and
    turn the ones you got back in (i.e., not installed yet)? The $72 price
    for the sports uppers and lowers is full list price. $53 is full list
    on the standard suspension lowers.

    Anyway - 25% discount is about as good as you can get from a dealer -
    on-line or local with club discount, so you did good on price. The
    local dealer where I am starts out at 10% *above* list - and don't give
    any discounts - even to local shops. I laugh when I drive by sometimes
    and see their big banners out that say "Special This Week: 10% Off on
    All Parts!!", which means they're selling at full list that week. :)

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, May 31, 2008
    #12
  13. rob

    rob Guest

    yeah there in already


    update coming later tonight
     
    rob, May 31, 2008
    #13
  14. rob

    rob Guest

  15. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    OK - so standard uppers and sport lowers - better than vice-versa. Did
    you have any problems with the nuts breaking loose when removing the old
    ones? I've read some horror threads on replacing these bushings on one
    of the LH car forums.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Jun 2, 2008
    #15
  16. rob

    rob Guest

    nope came off easily with a breaker bar, the bolts are pitted and somewhat
    rusted though from Florida weather and Colorado winter roads (previous owner
    lived out in the sticks. after buying it I moved down here in the land of
    sweat and humidity) so i'll need to replace those this week.
     
    rob, Jun 2, 2008
    #16
  17. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    Even though you'll probably never need to replace them again, you will
    put anti-seize on the new bolts?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Jun 2, 2008
    #17
  18. rob

    rob Guest

    well since I have a huge can from my days at caterpillar, yeah that will
    most likely happen! >:-{)
     
    rob, Jun 2, 2008
    #18
  19. rob

    rob Guest

    holy crap. new bolts 10 bucks each!


     
    rob, Jun 2, 2008
    #19
  20. rob

    Bill Putney Guest

    So the old ones are starting to look better to you now? Hey - the nuts
    are old. Why not old bolts (with anti-seize) too?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Jun 3, 2008
    #20
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