o-o mixed my antifreeze

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by billholden, Dec 9, 2005.

  1. billholden

    billholden Guest

    I drive a 1999 3.5 Chrysler LHS with 215,000km
    The water pump went and had it changed. After driving was low. One litre
    of Old type green antifreeze was added to the new pink antifreeze. Began
    to overheat speradically. could not find reason. Overheated into red zone
    and alarm went. Shut off car imediately. Looked under hood, all was well.
    After no more than a minute I turned on ignition and the temp was normal.
    Confused I thought the guage must be shorted out. Fan seemed to be kicking
    on and of ok. Ran car for about 10 miles cracked plastic tank on side of
    rad. Took to chrysler replaced rad $$$$ adding up(found stuff in rad). Ran
    again and was overheating again. Changed thermostat. Overheated again.
    Puzzled we thought the pump might have plugged with slime. Took it off but
    was clear. Flushed rad and engine Seperately. Still overheating.???? Help
    billholden, Dec 9, 2005
  2. billholden

    Bill Putney Guest

    Did you bleed the air out of the system after replacing the water pump
    (there's a bleeder valve - looks exactly like a brake bleeder - on top
    front of the engine)? Any signs of a blown head gasket? (that might
    also go along with busted radiator end cap)

    Any possibility the present problem is related to whatever made you
    think the original water pump was bad, or that overheating from when the
    pump went out caused the present problem (again, like possibly a blown
    head gasket)?

    Pressure bottle not cracked? Pressure bottle cap OK? Cap is not
    expensive to replace, and they do go bad and cause "mysterious"
    overheating very much like what you're experiencing.

    You brought up the possibility of the gage simply reading wrong - have
    you in fact ruled that out? i.e., do you know that it is actually
    overheating, or are you only going by the gage? I doubt if this is the
    case, but had to mention it.

    I doubt if it would cause your problem, but it is disappointing that you
    put green antifreeze in with your nice new G-05 coolant (I'm assuming
    that's what you have in it and not DexCool).

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Dec 10, 2005
  3. billholden

    billholden Guest

    Thanks for your reply
    Bleeder valve was bled
    -no signs of headgasket gone, exhaust is perfect
    -Water pump was leaking-bearing was gone (215000km)
    -I know it was overheating because it cracked the plastic tank on the side
    of the rad under preasure
    _it seems the upper engine is getting hot but the lower engine is cold
    -hot upper hose hot under preasure-cold lower hose with no preasure, yet
    they say that the water flows freely through the rad when flushing and it
    is a knew rad
    -it is as if the rad were plugged?????????????
    billholden, Dec 10, 2005
  4. billholden

    pottsy Guest

    that'll be the thermostat then?

    pottsy, Dec 10, 2005
  5. billholden

    billholden Guest

    WE already changed the thermostat. I am thinking maybe it is all snotted up
    in the heads and not allowing the fluid to ceculate. That would explain the
    rad cracking under pressure. The upper hose has heat and preasure , the
    lower one is cold.???????????
    Would a flush nessessarily clean out the heads or could it bypass or even
    clean out a passage and not the whole
    billholden, Dec 10, 2005
  6. billholden

    pottsy Guest

    You could try a reverse flush. Remove the top hose and the thermostat and
    shove a hosepipe in the hole and send a good pressure of water in the
    opposite way that the coolant normally flows. This usually gets rid of the
    sludge unless it's really bad.

    I know you've already swapped the thermostat, but have you tried running
    without it? See if the bottom hoses then get warm.

    pottsy, Dec 10, 2005
  7. That is a pointless waste of time and effort that will not diagnose or
    repair anything.
    Daniel J. Stern, Dec 11, 2005
  8. billholden

    pottsy Guest

    It'll show whether the thermostat is stuck, (as will dropping it in a pan of
    boiling water)
    If the complete system then works albeit a little cooler than it should,
    i.e. the bottom hose then gets warm, which it isn't at the moment, then it's
    a faulty thermostat.

    pottsy, Dec 11, 2005
  9. Mixing antifreezes is first problem. Second problem may be your cooling
    system is air-bound. It happened to me on a Chrysler. Try to bleed
    system as you fill it by loosening a fitting or sensor near the
    thermostat housing. Good luck, Joe
    Joseph Sonntag, Dec 11, 2005
  10. billholden

    Richard Guest

    Not accurate in many cases. The lack of a restrictive but open thermostate
    changes the velosity of the circulaton and can significantly change the
    system's dynamics. In some cases it may overheat (without any thermostate),
    even though the system is fine with the thermostate installed).

    Richard, Dec 11, 2005
  11. billholden

    Bill Putney Guest

    I agree, though I wouldn't expect to see that cause overheating problems
    so soon (i.e., I doubt if it's causing the immediate problem).
    The OP said he already bled the system. Also, most people don't realize
    this, but the thermostat on this engine is down low on the inlet side of
    the engine instead of up high on the outlet side of the engine like it
    is in most cars. However, there is a bleeder valve on the top of this
    engine for the purpose of bleeding the coolant system of air.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Dec 11, 2005
  12. billholden

    billholden Guest

    Well we fixed it. I went to the wreckers and bought an engine with
    60,000km. With the alternator, starter, aircond., 6 coils and all the in
    engine censors installed $2800 taxxes in. The old engine only had 215,00
    km but it had a reoccurring collapsed lifter and at least one missfiring
    coil. So with over 200,000 on the other parts I think this was the best
    way to go. It was going to cost over 3000 to do heads. For 2800 finnished
    I think I did the best thing.
    I want to thank you guys for all your input.By the way don't ever change a
    high beam in an lhs. That's a nightmare. Haynse manual doesn't explain it
    very well. You are supposed to undo the uppeer bumper clips and pull the
    bumper out enough to remove and replace the lense but there is a bolt on
    either side that is out of reach without special tools so the struggle re
    & re is enraging. (had a leak in trans cooler hose. had to re&re cooler)
    We are fine now. We are on different meds. (kidding)
    Had a taxi fare one time that used me as a get away car. I reported him
    and he spent 3 months in jail. Says he is on different meds and doesn't do
    that anymore.
    Thanks again.
    billholden, Dec 18, 2005
  13. billholden

    Bill Putney Guest

    Sounds like maybe so.
    That's why many here, including myself, recommend against aftermarket
    manuals in general - to much missing and mis- information - go with FSM
    every time to save time and expense.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Dec 19, 2005
  14. billholden

    Bill Putney Guest


    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Dec 19, 2005
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