Jeep Paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chris & Mary
  • Start date Start date
C

Chris & Mary

I went mudding about two weeks ago and the jeep got fairly muddy. I left
the mud on for those two weeks until I had a chance to wash it. I was upset
to see that the mud clouded my paint in patches! Can I fix this or does my
Jeep now permanently stained? It is black paint.

Thanks

Chris
1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.0 L, 5-Speed
214k
 
I've had good success with just waxing it, but using a machine to apply
the wax and polishing it afterwards. The machine makes the difference for
me.
There are some waxes that claim to restore clouded paint to some degree,
the come in various colors. Those worked well back when I had a white CJ.
I think the brand is Turtle for that too.

Good luck!
-Kris
http://plan9.dns2go.com/jeeps
 
I've got a better idea:
Cherish the Mud.
(why did you wash it off, anyway?)
;)
TJim
 
Chris said:
I went mudding about two weeks ago and the jeep got fairly muddy. I left
the mud on for those two weeks until I had a chance to wash it. I was upset
to see that the mud clouded my paint in patches! Can I fix this or does my
Jeep now permanently stained? It is black paint.
Click to expand...

Try Meguire's swirl remover. But don't rub for too long or you will go
through the clearcoat.
 
try cleaning a small area with rubbing alchohol, see if that works
by small I mean not in a noticable area, rubbing alcohol has been known to
take all the paint off
 
A possibility of the discoloration is nothing more than tannins from
decayed leaves or is iron staining from decomposed organic stuff. If so
this is very easily removed by using a cleaner that contains "oxalic
acid". Cleansers that are commericially available are: ZUD, Bartenders
Friend, etc. - obviously just wet and apply but dont rub!
Try an inconspicous place first.
Boaters use oxalic all the time to remove tannins and iron stains.
 
RichH said:
A possibility of the discoloration is nothing more than tannins from
decayed leaves or is iron staining from decomposed organic stuff. If so
this is very easily removed by using a cleaner that contains "oxalic
acid". Cleansers that are commericially available are: ZUD, Bartenders
Friend, etc. - obviously just wet and apply but dont rub!
Try an inconspicous place first.
Boaters use oxalic all the time to remove tannins and iron stain
Click to expand...

No way! Both of these are cleansers that are full of pumace for scrubing
bathroom fixtures (they come in cylindrical containers exactly the same as
Comet and Ajax). If oxalic acid is needed (and I have no idea about what
this will do to your paint) go to your home improvement store and buy pure
oxalic acid. Good luck dude.

Kim
 
ummmmmm I clearly stated: dont rub!
No way! Both of these are cleansers that are full of pumace for scrubing
bathroom fixtures (they come in cylindrical containers exactly the same as
Comet and Ajax). If oxalic acid is needed (and I have no idea about what
this will do to your paint) go to your home improvement store and buy pure
oxalic acid. Good luck dude.

Kim
Click to expand...
 
I just visited my local Autoboby Shop and they said the fogging can be fixed
by buffing it out. It will cost $80-$100 cdn for 3 hours of work and it
will fix all the scratches to since they are minor. They said the dealer I
bought it from last month must have had it painted before I got it and that
is what is wrong. After they buff it I must immediatly wax it and it should
never happen again. Does anyone know what they use to buff it and how they
do it. Thanks a lot for all of your replies!

Chris
 
Subject: Re: Jeep Paint
From: "Chris & Mary" [email protected]
Date: 7/11/2003 11:26 AM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: <[email protected]>

I just visited my local Autoboby Shop and they said the fogging can be fixed
by buffing it out. It will cost $80-$100 cdn for 3 hours of work and it
will fix all the scratches to since they are minor. They said the dealer I
bought it from last month must have had it painted before I got it and that
is what is wrong. After they buff it I must immediatly wax it and it should
never happen again. Does anyone know what they use to buff it and how they
do it. Thanks a lot for all of your replies!
Click to expand...
Chris
Click to expand...

Chris:

Depending on how much fogging there is-they may simply use a buffing compound
on a polishing buff (bonnet) on a polisher. If the fogging is more severe-then
heavier compound and a cutting buff then follow up as above-and may final buff
it with a swirl remover like Cleanbright #27.
Each to his own with waxes-I use Meguire's #26.
Respectfully submitted,

Loren Knighton
Woodland, CA.

Under the hood since 1964
Member TRNI IATN
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html
http://www.longmfg.com/web/longwebframework.nsf/home/web.trucool
 
Should just be a standard buffing compound, you can do it yourself with a
buffer but if you screw up it ends up being alot worse than before you
started. It really helps to have an old car around to practice on.
 
Tom said:
Should just be a standard buffing compound, you can do it yourself with a
buffer but if you screw up it ends up being alot worse than before you
started. It really helps to have an old car around to practice on.
Click to expand...

<soapbox>

Buffers are the spawn of Satan for they allow anyone to effortlessly remove paint.

Yea.. they have a place, but it's not in the hands of someone that lacks
experience. I've seen far too many paint jobs hopelessly f-ed up by them.

Any rate, if you do choose to use one of these things remember to keep the
polishing bonnet clean and never use the same bonnet for different grits or
polish. And please remember that it's better to not buff enough than to buff
too much. Paint and clearcoat these days is incredibly thin. It's not like
the old lead-based-paint days where you could go after the finish with a high
grit rubbing compound.

</soapbox>
 
Buffers are the spawn of Satan for they allow anyone to effortlessly remove paint.

Yea.. they have a place, but it's not in the hands of someone that lacks
experience. I've seen far too many paint jobs hopelessly f-ed up by them.
Click to expand...

Agreed, the first time I ever used a buffer I cut through the paint.
Fortunately it
was on an old car where the paint was ruined already, so it didn't matter.
But
it doesen't take that much time to figure out what to do. Keep the speed of
the
thing low, and let the buffer and the buffing compound do the work, don't
bear
down on it. And definitely practice on an old car first.

Ted
 
DougW said:
Go get a claybar from Meguires. That will remove anything stuck to the paint.
Just be sure to follow the directions.
Click to expand...

I took the claybar advice from you guys and damn if it didn't work
like a champ.
Don't understand how exactly but it does. I bought the "Clay Magic"
because it was all they had. It comes in a box with a spray bottle and
a 3x4" blue clay bar.
I got it at Autozone for $9.99. Since I only needed to use it on my
hood and front fenders, I expect I can use the clay again. I followed
the instructions and finished it off with a coat of wax. The deep
shine and smooth feel is back.
Thanks
 
Why would anyone who would leave their car covered in mud for two weeks be
concerned about clouded paint?
 
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