Intrepid door noise

[Greg Johnson]

My front passenger side door has recently started rattling
and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the
day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but
this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road.

Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this
same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am
wondering if they didn't screw something down tight, or if
it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not
holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be
replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they've
had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became
evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so
I'd rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create
another problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I
am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this
isn't necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing
(putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.

 

[Bill Putney]

My front passenger side door has recently started rattling
and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the
day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but
this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road.

Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this
same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am
wondering if they didn't screw something down tight, or if
it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not
holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be
replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they've
had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became
evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so
I'd rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create
another problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I
am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this
isn't necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing
(putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.

The two most likely causes:
(1) The clips that hold the panel on - there are two in each door - go
to the Chrysler dealer and ask for them - they are officially called the
"white" clips by Chrysler and the dealerships to distinguish them from
other types of clips. I would not suggest using generic type similar
clips from the auto parts store "HELP" aisle.
(2) Chances are good that if you look at the three screws along the very
bottom edge of the door panel, you will see that one or more of the
screw holes are cracked and broken. Chrysler has an OK bandaid fix for
it in the form of special washers (same idea as fender washers, but
special shape) that you order pre-painted to match the panel color.
There's a thread (started by yours truly) that gives part numbers and
even photos of what the washers look like installed here:
http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?topicID=578.topic.

Also might check speakers to make sure they are installed correctly and
tight. Hopefully it is not caused by the dealer having left something
loose, but even that should be easy to fix by removing the panel and
seeing whats not tight.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Bill Putney]

Oh - almost forgot the simple things - make sure the dealer put all the
screws back in the panel.

Let's see - there are (working from memory here):
1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle)
1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the
pull cup)
Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill -
they are in very deep recesses - may need a flashlight or good daylight
to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws)
The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Bill Putney]

Oh - almost forgot the simple things - make sure the dealer put all the
screws back in the panel.

Let's see - there are (working from memory here):
1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle)
1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the
pull cup)
Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill -
they are in very deep recesses - may need a flashlight or good daylight
to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws)
The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

Oh - two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces
the end of the dash when the door is closed - can't miss them when the
door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work
and didn't want to post thru Google - not sure I can trust them not to
SPAM me if I sign up with them.)

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Greg Johnson]

Oh - two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces
the end of the dash when the door is closed - can't miss them when the
door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work
and didn't want to post thru Google - not sure I can trust them not to
SPAM me if I sign up with them.)

Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn't reveal any missing
screws, although I'll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One
thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I've been driving.
Maybe this is why I didn't notice anything wrong in the summer: because it
was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms,
thus 'fixing' the problem.

It's been chilly lately and I'll try to pay attention to the inside
temperature versus the door noise. It's a real annoyance when it is
rattling. I hope it's not those $#@$ panel clips!

 

[Bill Putney]

Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn't reveal any missing
screws, although I'll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One
thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I've been driving.
Maybe this is why I didn't notice anything wrong in the summer: because it
was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms,
thus 'fixing' the problem.

It's been chilly lately and I'll try to pay attention to the inside
temperature versus the door noise. It's a real annoyance when it is
rattling. I hope it's not those $#@$ panel clips!

You're welcome.

About the only thing inside rattling around would be:
(1) Window motor assembly - four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that
attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted
hole - make sure it's in the slot and not just flapping around).
(2) window tracks
(3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to
form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) - it is
aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one
at bottom of the door - the top bolt is in an open slotted hole - make
sure it isn't missing the slot completely - would bang around if out of
the slot.

I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in - it
helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door
handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against
something.

Speaker tight?

Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it's
closed).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Jim Shulthiess]

I had a rattle in the driver's door of my '99 300M. Had the dealer look at
it when the car was in for service. On the work order was a note that
"mounts are broken" or some such. Got hold of the Service Manager and had
him look up the history of repairs on the car. They'd had the door apart
three of four times for window problems. "Ill order you a new panel and
call you when it comes in." About ten days later I got the call and took
the car in. New panel installed, no rattle, no charge! Good dealer in my
book.
--
Jim "Gramps" Shulthiess
Rockingham, NC
Red 1999 800A
VROC #300, WARB #39
NCVulcan #47A
GAVROC #0026
Zenriders #315
TNVROC HM#43

 

[Greg Houston]

You're welcome.

About the only thing inside rattling around would be:
(1) Window motor assembly - four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that
attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted
hole - make sure it's in the slot and not just flapping around).
(2) window tracks
(3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to
form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) - it is
aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one
at bottom of the door - the top bolt is in an open slotted hole - make
sure it isn't missing the slot completely - would bang around if out of
the slot.

I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in - it
helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door
handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against
something.

Speaker tight?

Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it's
closed).

I took a look at that front right door today. (Boy was it beautiful out!) You
guessed it, there are cracks around every screw at the bottom. It looks the
dealer tried to overcome this with some kind of rectangular washer deal. The
special colored washers you found look like they are a lot bigger. Perhaps this
is the source of my problem. Unfortunately it's real hard to diagnose b/c the
door only makes noise when I am driving, and then I"m in the left seat!
Complicating this is that the noise doesn't happen at predictable times, it
happens at some bumps in the road, but not others. Bumps don't seem to cause the
door to make as much noise when the car is warm for some reason (expansion?) I
have noticed that when I apply pressure to the panel the rattling stops. I really
want to solve this one, perhaps if I can get those colored washers it will fix
it.... Thanks!