Ignition switch - 2000 Concorde LXi

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by jaygreg, Oct 2, 2009.

  1. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Periodic failure to turn. Chance usually resolves it within one or two
    minutes. Today... 20.

    Q1) Does this usually decline gradually or is it all over the lot?
    Q2) A friend suggested spraying lubricant (WD40) into the switch.
    Worth a shot or wait of time?
    Q3) Replacement looks pretty simple. About half an hour?
    Q4) Rough cost of the part?
    jaygreg, Oct 2, 2009
  2. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    I had a similar problem with the ignition switch in one of my Concordes
    (my daily driver). I removed the cylinder and flushed out all the wear
    particles real good with brake parts cleaner, then sprayed lithium
    grease (spray can from auto parts store - great stuff to keep around -
    real lithium grease in a carrier fluid that evaporates leaving a nice
    super-thin coat of the grease) into it. Then wiped off any excess with
    a paper towel and re-installed it. That was about 3 years ago - no
    problems since.

    WD-40 is not a lubricant that has any staying power whatsoever - it
    totally evaporates. Its purpose is to displace water. Not much good
    for anything else (except cleaning adhesives off of stuff).
    Bill Putney, Oct 2, 2009
  3. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    So.... WD40 probably wouldn't hurt? It has some lubricant properties
    so if I find my problem disappears immediately and comes back latter,
    I can assume lubrication is the answer and I can disassemble and
    proceed as you did. Sound like a plan?
    jaygreg, Oct 2, 2009
  4. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Certainly. It could fix it for a long time too. I think that the
    problem is accumulated wear particles jamming it up. If that theory is
    correct, then the mere act of flushing it out real good may be good
    enough. Lubrication (again, that WD-40 does not provide for very long
    at all) would just make it smoother and make the correction less marginal.

    Were you successful in getting your inner tie rod bushings replaced?
    Bill Putney, Oct 2, 2009
  5. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Thanks, Bill. I'll proceed with the WD40 as 1st shot and see if it
    brings releif. If it does, I'll let it go until the next time. Then
    I'll dissemble and go the lithium grease route. I have some of that in
    a spray can that has a narrow nozzle (tube) just like the WD40 can as
    well but if I use that it probably won't penetrate as far as the WD40.

    And "Yes" I got the tie rod end fixed. Had to borrow lots of tools
    from my neighbor and finally make a tool out of the connecting bolt to
    remove the bushing (I made a little hand press) but... I gotter done!
    Thanks for the help there as well.
    jaygreg, Oct 2, 2009
  6. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Page 8D-10 under "Removal" speaks of placing the ignition key in the
    "run position" to permit the lock cylinder retaining clip to be
    depressed. How does one do that if the key doesn't turn? That's why
    the cylinder has to be replaced; the key won't turn the ignition
    switch on.
    jaygreg, Oct 2, 2009
  7. jaygreg

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    Two thoughts:

    1) Get it to turn One More Time. Make *really* certain the steering
    isn't putting any pressure on the lock plate, wiggle the key a lot.....

    2) Carbide tip drill bit. Only for absolutely last resort...
    Joe Pfeiffer, Oct 2, 2009
  8. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Also, make sure it's not a problem with the ignition interlock cable
    adjustment being out rather than the ignition cylinder itself binding
    up. Can you tell if it's simply tight/binding vs. a hard stop? If the
    latter, it could very well be the interlock cable being out of adjustment.

    FSM has a description on doing that adjustment, but sometimes the
    "semi-automatic" technique they describe doesn't work. Involves
    removing the shifter bezel to reach the adjustment mechanism at the
    shifter end. But once in there, you can play with that cable from the
    shifter end and determine if that's the problem.
    Bill Putney, Oct 2, 2009
  9. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    I mentioned that shifter cable to the mechanic at the dealership where
    I got the part. He looked at me like he didn't know what I was talking
    about then said that usually doesn't come into play. That surprised me
    because the way the manual is written, it implies this adjustment is a
    necessary step. What's your take?

    I'm a tad confused about your "tight/binding vs. a hard stop". Don't
    you mean that if it were the former rather than latter it would
    suggest the cable? I have a hard stop. Aside from the minimal play one
    would expect in a cylinder, that key stops dead which would imply to
    me it's hit a tumble or two that aren't supposed to be there (worn and
    shifted or out of position). A "slipped" cable (I would think) might
    feel like it gradually slips away as the key turns, gives a little,
    then binds but otherwise allowing the key to turn a little more.

    But then let's remember... I've got zip experience at having done one
    of these in the past so... what the hell do I know. I'm going from
    what seems to make sense. Kindda like reading about jumping into the
    Arctic Ocean if one has never experienced "cold". I THINK I know what
    that's like but then... You get the picture. Did you mean "hard stop =
    possible cable adjustment or no"?
    jaygreg, Oct 3, 2009
  10. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    I guess you're right if it were a tumbler stuck, so a hard stop could be
    either. The interlock cable positions a hard plastic slide across a
    flat on the cylinder.
    Bill Putney, Oct 3, 2009
  11. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Update: Mission accomplished... for real! :)

    Did nothing with the cable. I couldn't see how that came into play
    with what I did. Had I removed the switch, it would have made sense
    'cause the cable would have had to be disconnected from the cylinder
    housing. Howerver, the old lock cylinder slid out as smoothly as the
    new one slid in. Piece of cake. I noticed no change in ignition/shift
    lever interaction and the car started, drove, stopped, and restarted
    several times so far without incident. Ninety five percent of my time
    was spent reading and thinking about the repair since I was unfamiliar
    with the terms and mechanisms. The repair manual goes to great length
    to point out the danger of air bags. That slowed me down a lot. Had to
    jump around in that manual reading a lot of stuff that really wasn't
    pertinent to the repair per se but had to be understood, I guess, to
    avoid doing something stupid.... like pounding on a protruding guide
    on the housing rather than the retractable tab that retreats into the
    lock cylinder when the key is turned properly. Caught myself in time

    Thanks for the help, folks.
    jaygreg, Oct 4, 2009
  12. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    So you were able to get it to turn like Joe suggested so you could turn
    the key to R&R the cylinder. You now have a new cylinder and different
    ignition key?
    Bill Putney, Oct 4, 2009
  13. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Sure do. And as luck would have it, when I got the steering wheel
    column covers and that security switch (ring around the key cylinder)
    off, the key turned within minutes. I didn't have to make three half
    hour attempts like I did just prior to that repair. All done. New
    cylinder installed.
    jaygreg, Oct 4, 2009
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