Ignition cables - 2000 Concorde -3.5 L - 111Kmiles

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by jaygreg, Feb 2, 2010.

  1. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    I just phoned the only Chrysler dealer in a 30 mile radius and was
    told I don't have ignition cables in my 3.5 engine so there's nothing
    to change. I'm confused. The service manual I bought from the factory
    in 2003 (shop manual) calls for this replacement at 100,000 miles.
    What's up?
    jaygreg, Feb 2, 2010
  2. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Correction! That's a 3.2L engine.
    jaygreg, Feb 2, 2010
  3. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Yes - the 3.2 (same as 2nd gen. LH 3.5 - *only* difference is bore size)
    has what is called coil-over-plug - each spark plug has its own coil,
    and the output of the coil is a direct contact to the top of the plug
    with rubber boot incorporated - no coil-to-plug wire m(same is also true
    of the 2.7).

    If the shop manual has a replacement interval for "ignition wires" or
    equivalent, then someone failed to remove that from the standard FSM

    I have software copies of both the '02 and '04 FSM's. The '02 FSM does
    not include the maintenance schedules, but refers the reader to the
    owner's manual. The '04 FSM includes the maintenance schedules, but
    does not mention ignition cables or ignition wires. They must have
    caught the error for the '04 manual.
    Bill Putney, Feb 2, 2010
  4. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Hi Bill! Yep. Page 0-4 for Schedule - A says for 100,000 miles....
    * Replace the spark plugs
    * Replace the ignition cables
    * Replace the engine timing belt
    * Flush and replace the engine coolant...
    * Chanhe teh automatic transaxle fluid and filter

    It's from the red "2000 Service Manual - LHS, 300M, Concode and
    Intrepid by DaimlerChrysler Corporation (pub #81-270-0040)

    All's done but the first two. After the guy told me it didn't have
    ignition cables, I asked about the plugs. Eight bucks each! Is he
    pullin' my leg?

    So you're confirming there are no "ignition cables" as part of this
    schedule. OK. What about "plugs"? And what about that "eight bucks
    jaygreg, Feb 3, 2010
  5. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Well what do you know! Besides the pdf '02 and '04 FSM's that I
    mentioned, I also have the hard copy of the '99 FSM, and it has the same
    information as your '00 FSM! I never noticed that before. But - yes -
    it is an error. Be assured: There are *no* ignition cables on our 2nd
    gen. LH cars.

    That plug would be the NGK ZFR5LP-13G. Yes - it is an $8 plug. You can
    find it for $7 at places like Advance - occasional coupons might get it
    down lower. I will say that the people on the LH car-specific forums,
    including the 300M Enthusiasts Club really do like that plug. Several
    of them have tried other plugs - some that are more expensive, but they
    keep coming back to the NGK - it is pretty much unversally agreed to be
    the best plug for the 3.2/3.5 engine.
    Bill Putney, Feb 3, 2010
  6. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    So the only error in the schedule involves the ignition cables. Those
    plugs SHOULD be replaced at 100,000 miles. Right?

    P.S. You have any recommendation for the rear brakes; rotor and shoes
    (I assume it's a rotor).
    jaygreg, Feb 3, 2010
  7. jaygreg

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    Don't know what he's looking up for plugs but the OE plug is a very
    non-fancy Champion RE12PEC5 which you should be able to buy for under
    $3.00 each. They work fine.

    There are no ignition cables, just a rubber boot on each coil/plug which
    is advisable that it be changed.

    FYI, some spark plugs <cough-ford-cough> are now over $25 each.
    aarcuda69062, Feb 3, 2010
  8. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    The TDK's were factory plugs on later years, and as I reported, people
    on the LH car forums, and in particular the 300M Enthusiasts Club, have
    come to like them after experimenting quite a bit. I will say that
    there are no complaints on the Champions either, it's just that people
    seem to like the TDK's more.

    Many people on the 300M Club adamantly advise against the Bosch +4 plugs
    - more than one first hand report of a ground electrode breaking off in
    the in the combustion chamber.
    Hmm - I've not read of nor experienced (350k combined miles on my two
    Concordes) any problems with the boots. I believe the boot is part of
    the coil assembly - not removable or replaceable, so the coils would
    have to be replaced to replace the boots - is that not correct?
    Bill Putney, Feb 3, 2010
  9. jaygreg

    Rob Guest

    fords are high-priced for sure but try a Mercedes.....X2 per cylinder
    Rob, Feb 4, 2010
  10. jaygreg

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    Are you dubbing some music tonight Bill? TDK?

    NGK makes excellent spark plugs, i just thought I'd mention that the OP
    has options WRT where and what he can buy.
    Yech... Bosch Platinums...
    IMO, there is a greater chance of the boots carbon tracking on
    applications where the plug/boot reside deep in the cylinder head.

    The boots are available separately for about $5-$6 each and since it's a
    once every 100K affair, cheap insurance.
    aarcuda69062, Feb 4, 2010
  11. jaygreg

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    Ahhh,,, but it's Cherman.

    Ooops, so is a 2000 Chrysler.
    aarcuda69062, Feb 4, 2010
  12. jaygreg

    Rob Guest

    I'm just glad i don't have to buy 16 high priced 4 ground strap plugs at a
    Rob, Feb 4, 2010
  13. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Hah! I have no idea where that came from. The mind is a terrible thing!
    OK - good info. Again, I have not read of any problems with the boots
    on the various LH car forums.
    Bill Putney, Feb 4, 2010
  14. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    That's what's suggested by Chrysler. But it would be better to do it
    around 70k miles. You will likely notice mileage drops and performance
    issues - nothing serious, but some incremental effects - before you get
    to 100k.
    It's a combination rotor/drum - the rotor part is the service brake and
    the drum is parking brake only.

    You can't go wrong with Hawk HPS pads. Performance Friction carbon
    metallics are also good. Stay away from ceramics unless you know a
    particular brand and type is good. The term "ceramic" is almost
    meaningless for brake pads - almost any pad could be classified or not
    classified as ceramic depending on *how* you define the term "ceramic"
    (materials and level of content). I can say that there are some real
    junk pads in ceramic, though there are also some good ones - the trick
    is knowing which are which.

    Raybestos makes a line of rotors that have an electro-deposited black
    paint coating in the mid price range. NAPA carries them under their
    in-house "United Brake" brand - you want the "Ultra-Premium" - that's
    the good-quality Raybestos rotor with e-deposited paint.
    www.rockauto.com carries the Raybestos, and even after adding shipping
    cost, should be lower cost than the same rotor from NAPA.

    I've had good results from that level of Raybestos rotors.
    Bill Putney, Feb 4, 2010
  15. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Thanks for the advice. In summary:
    Plugs: the NGK ZFR5LP-13G
    Cables: forgettabodit
    Rear brake pads: Hawk HPS
    Rear rotors: Raybestos electro-deposited black paint coating
    Tires: ???
    jaygreg, Feb 8, 2010
  16. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    You're welcome.

    Sorry - when you said "shoes", I had brakes on my mind.

    Of course it depends on what you want in a tire. Me personally - I
    wrote off so-called "hi-performance" tires about 6 years ago. To me
    they are a poor value. Besides typically costing a lot more and giving
    way less tread life, they develop unacceptable noise about half way thru
    their tread life (even when they are regularly balanced and rotated),
    and the manufacturers do not stand behind them if there are any problems
    because - "Hey - they're high performance tires - we assume people abuse
    them, so the burden of proof is on the consumer to prove that *they*
    didn't cause the problem" - the dealers and manufacturers literally tell
    you that if you try to get a failure adjustment on a "hi-performance"
    tire short of spontaneous explosion shortly after having them installed.

    I have been using touring tires, specifically Cooper Lifeliner Touring
    SLE and CS4 Touring (the CS4 replaced the SLE when the SLE was
    discontinued) ever since swearing off "hi-performance" tires and have
    been *very* happy with them. They are super quiet (important in the LH
    cars as they tend to amplify tire noise), have excellent tread life (80k
    mile), and are available in T and H/V speed ratings. I might be
    sacrificing a little G-pulling capability, but I'm not a
    spirited/aggressive driver and for me they are a much better value IMO.

    YMMV - literally. :)
    Bill Putney, Feb 8, 2010
  17. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Thanks Bill. I don't know what class the tires I have fit in but
    they've ben acceptable. Unfortunately, they've also been discontinued:
    Firestone's Turanza LS-T P225/60R16 TLBS PS
    jaygreg, Feb 8, 2010
  18. jaygreg

    MoPar Man Guest

    jaygreg full-quoted:
    I don't have the same experience with high(er) performance tires that
    Bill has (or thinks he has).

    I have Yokohama Advan s4 as summer tires for my '00 300m. Because I
    rotate them with winter tires, I get more life out of them vs having
    them on all the time. And they remain quiet regardless of wear.

    I don't do a lot of driving anyways, so my tires are more likely to wear
    out because of UV or ozone dammage to rubber (ie - aging) vs actual road


    Even though they are classified as an "all-season" tire, I only drive on
    bona-fide snow tires in the winter.

    These Yokohama's rank 5 right now in it's catagory. The top tire in
    that catagory is the Continental ExtremeContact DWS. I normally
    consider Continental as more of a generic tire maker - the sort of
    high-milage (ie - rock-hard-rubber) sort of tire you find at CostCo.


    Very unusual tread pattern there.
    MoPar Man, Feb 9, 2010
  19. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Ouch! :)
    Bill Putney, Feb 9, 2010
  20. jaygreg

    Rob Guest

    I'm running these on the LHS sine the good years only went 28,000

    a little noisy but they wear very very well! and when it rains, get the hell
    out of the way, I'm coming thru!
    around 450.00 for all 4.

    Thanks Bill. I don't know what class the tires I have fit in but
    they've ben acceptable. Unfortunately, they've also been discontinued:
    Firestone's Turanza LS-T P225/60R16 TLBS PS
    Rob, Feb 10, 2010
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