How to replace the rear rotor for my Town and country

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Vy.Huy.Ho, Oct 11, 2005.

  1. Vy.Huy.Ho

    Vy.Huy.Ho Guest

    My T&C 2003 van makes noise when I brake. I replaced the 2 rotors in
    the front. I am sure the noise is from the rear. I need to replace
    the rotor, or at least take it out, and find out what's going on inside

    I take all the wheel, caliper, brake pads, but the rotor just does not
    come out. It moves a little bit, but does not come out. I even unhook
    the thing on the back of it (is it a parking brake or something), but
    it just does not come out.

    I even use a pulling device that mount around the disk, pull around it,
    and push in the middle, but it just does not come out.

    I wonder if I miss any nut/bolt or any steps?

    I read about using the caliper whole to put a nut in it and "walk" the
    rotor out. Study this carefully, and it seems very risky thing to do.
    I am afraid the caliper mounter will bend, but the rotor would not come

    I also bang the rotor real hard (hehe, that contribute to the rotor
    warp a bit), and it just doesn't move.

    What should I do to get this out?

    Thank you very much for any info or help.
    Vy.Huy.Ho, Oct 11, 2005
  2. First, before doing ANYTHING more, have you followed ALL the
    steps in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) If you do NOT have a
    FSM then you are an absolute fool to be screwing around with brakes.

    Are you sure this is the rotor moving, and not the entire wheel just moving
    in the bearing?
    That will work but it really needs a lot of force,
    probably more than most of these kinds of flimsy pullers can generate.
    It's also extremely dangerous, as the rotor deflects more and more your
    building up a huge amount of energy, if anything slips (like the puller
    or snaps you could be hurt badly.
    Where are you banging?

    When you hammer a rotor to get it off you bang on the edge, with the force
    sideways, not back to front. The idea is the sudden jar at right angles to
    the axle
    will make the rotor shift a tiny tiny tiny amount sideways, this will break
    the rust
    bond that is holding it on. And you don't need to hit it very hard, you
    just need to
    hit it with something massive. Unfortunately, this is hard on the bearings.

    What a shop would probably do if the rotor does not come off with gentle
    hammering with a sledge, is heat it up quickly, to a dull red, with an
    torch then hammer it off with a sledge. Propane isn't going to help here.
    key is to get the rotor hot very quickly before the heat has a chance to
    into the hub and expand that, or melt all the grease out of the bearings.

    And keep in mind all this is general steps for a rotor that assume the rotor
    bolted on to the wheel. That is why you need to review the FSM.

    Ted Mittelstaedt, Oct 11, 2005
  3. Vy.Huy.Ho

    st946tbf Guest

    Thank you for the reply.

    When you talk about FSM, do you mean those guide you can buy from the
    auto store, such as Advance Auto Parts? I checked, but they didn't
    have 2003. I'll check again today.

    I am sure the rotor move a little bit, using my hand without much
    force, I can easily move it back and forth about 2/10th of an inch (not
    around) with relative to other stuffs. The wheel, 5 nuts, caliper, 2
    pads are already taken off.

    I also tried to see if I can take out the rotor on the other side, but
    it also stucks the same way. So, I wonder if there is any thing I

    Originally, there was metal noise, but not from the rotor (even when I
    don't brake). The tire on this side makes noise when I drive, and worn
    out quickly.
    That's why I start looking into this. I am afraid something is wrong
    with the bearing in there.
    st946tbf, Oct 11, 2005
  4. Vy.Huy.Ho

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    No, the FSM is the *Factory* Service Manual. Get it from Chrysler.
    Joe Pfeiffer, Oct 11, 2005
  5. Vy.Huy.Ho

    Steve Guest

    NO! An FSM is a FACTORY Service Manual. Buy one at a Chrysler dealer, or
    order online. Haynes/Chiltons/etc. that you buy at parts stores are garbage.
    Steve, Oct 11, 2005
  6. If you're attending Drexel University which was once an engineering
    school, there are some very inexpensive auto mechanics right near your
    campus who can give you some support. Just ask. Some are cheap. Some
    are not. So ask.
    treeline12345, Oct 11, 2005
  7. Also, one of the country's largest depositories of automotive texts and
    materials is within walking distance of Drexel. It's in the main branch
    of the Free Library, the science section, Logan Circle. I am not sure
    if it's as accessible now or up to date since Mayor Street has cut
    funds drastically. If you cannot find a used copy, the new copies can
    be quite expensive from $60 to $100 and on up.
    treeline12345, Oct 11, 2005
  8. Vy.Huy.Ho

    st946tbf Guest

    Thank you all for the advices. I'll try to get my hand on the FSM
    later. For now, I'll see if I can put some rust solvent, and see if it
    helps. Is it ok to use the rust solvent here?

    I looked at the Haynes book for 2002, it seems very straight forward,
    so it probably just stucks.

    On Drexel U. I graduated several years ago, and have since left
    Philadelphia. But thanks for the advice and keen eyes.
    st946tbf, Oct 11, 2005
  9. Haynes is based on taking apart one vehicle. That is good. The problem
    is that one vehicle represent maybe 10 years of all kinds of similar
    vehicles. If that one vehicle is exactly like yours, you're home free.
    If not, the diagrams and info will be almost correct, but not exactly,
    which can be terribly confusing to beginners.

    Sometimes on the internet you can find a description of what you are
    trying to do. For example, I wanted to know about my front wheel
    bearing. I found on the internet a full description of a car three
    years from mine, but the same.

    There is also a subscription services, which has the
    factory manuals and all online for $25 a year. That would probably be
    your best and cheapest bet for solidinfo.

    Also, I find that service managers in quiet suburbs will often give you
    lots of advice, also the parts guy. Since what you are doing is
    supposed to be pretty basic, unless the parts do not come apart, spend
    some time, if you can, asking these guys. Sometimes you luck out and
    they have good automotive experience.

    About, it lists about all for your car:
    Subscriptions Include:
    Factory Recall and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) These can be
    quite handy for repairs that the dealer will provide for free if it's a
    recall. Or repairs you might need to do that were found out about AFTER
    the Shop Manual was published. They don't update the original shop
    manual - I think.

    This information addresses safety, reliability, performance and comfort
    related problems with your car. Also provides fixes for common problems
    and updated factory repair procedures
    Illustrated Diagnosis and Repair Procedures
    OEM Part Numbers
    Diagnostic Charts and Trouble Codes
    Component Locations and Diagrams
    Factory Maintenance Schedules
    And much more!
    First subscription is $24.95 per year & additional
    This is going to be much cheaper an initial outlay. And will include
    materials not in the original Shop Manual. But if you have the money,
    get it all, a Shop Manual on paper and CD and the
    subscription which should give you the info from the source. I have
    seen prices up to $200 for some manuals. I don't know but will sell to you directly as well as any dealer
    will order the manual for you and probably save you shipping. Ask for a
    small discount. Tell him you are going to be a big customer with the
    way you are going :)
    treeline12345, Oct 11, 2005
  10. Vy.Huy.Ho

    kmatheson Guest

    New manuals can be ordered from: They offer manuals for
    1995 and later models. eBay will usually be less expensive, if you can
    find the one you need.

    -Kirk Matheson
    kmatheson, Oct 11, 2005
  11. Vy.Huy.Ho


    Loosen the lug nuts a bit on the wheels with the rusted on rotors,
    drive about 5 mph and slam on the brakes hard. Do this several times
    and it should break them free. This trick worked on my 300m which had
    rusted on rotors all around.
    HAMBURGER, Oct 12, 2005
  12. Tap on it with a hammer while you work it back and forth, as I mentioned
    before the direction of impact needs to be at right angles to the axle.

    Ted Mittelstaedt, Oct 12, 2005
  13. Vy.Huy.Ho

    st946tbf Guest

    Thank you for the help, Ted. I'll definitely try that tonight.
    st946tbf, Oct 12, 2005
  14. Vy.Huy.Ho

    Vy.Huy.Ho Guest

    Tapping on the thing, while using the pulling device (not putting too
    much pressure, just so I don't have to move back and forth), I was able
    to get it very far. I must say this is a wonderful suggestion. One
    side goes far enough that it shows a little gap in the middle of the
    rotor. I try to peek inside, but the stuck side is the one that I want
    to see. However, the other side goes almost out, but stuck there. The
    stuck is at around 2 o'clock position (this is driver rear wheel). I
    reason this could be the handbrake that causes this. When the rotor is
    pushed in, it can rotate around. When I move the rotor far out, the
    rotor stop rotating. There must be something stopping this.

    I unhook the emergency brake wire, but it does not help to release the
    rotor. If I hook back the emergency brake and push the emergency brake
    down, the rotor would stop rotating.

    This car also has ABS. I wonder if I take out the 4 nuts which hold
    everything (the bearing, the emergency brake, the base with 5 bolts
    sticking out, etc.) would help me take the thing out. The FSM probably
    be a good guide on this.
    Vy.Huy.Ho, Oct 13, 2005
  15. Ted Mittelstaedt, Oct 14, 2005
  16. Vy.Huy.Ho

    st946tbf Guest

    Thank you, Ted. I am waiting for the manuals to come through the mail.
    I was very surprised how good a deal that was. I feel really lucky to
    get your help.

    Again, thanks, and you have a good weekend,

    st946tbf, Oct 14, 2005
  17. Your welcome!

    Ted Mittelstaedt, Oct 16, 2005
  18. Vy.Huy.Ho

    st946tbf Guest

    I got the book in the mail today. However, I think it's not the right
    book. It's a set of diagnostic books which I think it helps to trouble
    shoot problem using a scanner. Does FSM show how to disassemble and
    assemble the van?
    st946tbf, Oct 30, 2005
  19. Yes. You got the wrong books.
    Daniel J. Stern, Oct 30, 2005
  20. No, not those. The ones he is referring to you need to buy directly from
    Chrysler. The ones that auto parts stores sell are at times barely adequate,
    and other times have missing information.
    Alex Rodriguez, Nov 2, 2005
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