Front Wheel Bearings - 2000 Town & Country VAN

Hi;

I've got a 2000 T&C Limited and need to replace the front
wheel bearing. It makes classic rumble noise.
3.8L V6 EFI, 16" wheels, ABS. 112,000 Miles.
Are there any tricks to changing it?
So far I've had a front done, and both rear ones
under factory extended warranty. Warranty us up so I
have to do this one myself.
Do I need any trick tools? I know it is a hub assembly.
What size is the axle nut? So I can get an impact socket.
How long should it take? What's the flat rate book say?

How would you rate the job on a difficulty scale of 1 - 5.
1=oil change, 3=water pump, 5=Install new pistons and rings.

Any advance help would be appreciated.
Gary ---- Atlanta. (Home of the Braves)

 

Someone was kind enough to send me an email detailing the follow. I'm
not sure if I have his premission to use his name. It's probably okay
but I'll let him decide that:

----------------------
To replace the wheel bearing on front wheel drive cars, you need a 4
foot
long breaker bar to remove the axle nut. An air gun won't work! Then
you need to
get the large socket to fit that big nut. Then after the axle nut is
removed you
need to remove the lock pin for the lower ball joint. A ball joint fork
is then
needed to spread it way so you can then pull the a-frame away enough to
remove the bearing. The bearing generally has a hold down flange that
has to be removed. Then you slide out the bearing. Some times it's
required that you have a gear puller, or
slide hammer.

If you have all those tools in your box, then it should go well. If you
don't, then it's cheaper to pay the $145 in labor. A good 4' long
breaker bar is going to be 3/4" drive and go for about $50.00. The
socket is anywhere from $25.00 for a limited use socket to another
$50.00 for a quality socket. The ball joint fork you can get under
$15.00 for a cheap Chinese knock off, but a quality one is another
$35.00 or so. Slide hammer and gear puller, well I know I spent $80.00
for a good slide hammer. A large gear puller, another $50.00. So,,, you
can see this all adds up quickly.

Non of the preceding includes possible medical attention for broken
finger
tips, band aides or tetanus shots for when you jab yourself deep enough
to make you cry. Go for it! life is an experience that shouldn't be
missed!
----------------------------

I'll add that:

The labor rate for Pep Boys is 1 1/2 hours. The labor rate for the
dealer is less, around $100 for the dealer versus $140 for Pep Boys. Go
figure.

I've found these bearing made by various companies at various prices. I
don't know who is the best or if it matters. SKF from Germany. BCA
National is here in the states and is Rockauto.com. I found Chicago
Rawhide which distributes for SKF here and is at Pep Boys. AutoZone had
different prices from Timken down to their economy Valu Craft line.
Don't know which company makes the best.

I found on the internet an article about how hard. Just what you asked.
It had complete instructions. I think I posted it here some time ago.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl632h.htm


It's for a 1992, but it sounds about the same.


It's mostly from the shop manual with some other manuals perhaps:

Dodge Caravan Front Wheel Bearings

Q. I have a 1992 Dodge Caravan, 3.0 liter, automatic transmission and
190,000 miles. There is a growling from the front wheels. My mechanic
told me the bearings, left and right, are going bad and need to be
replaced. This would involve a replacement of the "hub assembly" on
both sides, $100.00 apiece, and $200.00 labor.

Can I do this work myself? I'm handy and have replaced pads, rotors,
starters, alternators, and such before. Does it require special tools
or superhuman strength? Tell me I can save $200.00?
Bradley

A. You can save $200.00 if you are up to the task. I'll outline the
procedure and then you can decide if you are up to the challenge.

This hub and bearing assembly is being used on certain extended
wheelbase Caravan, Voyager and Mini Ram Vans. This unit is serviced as
a complete assembly, and is attached to the steering knuckle by four
mounting screws that are removed from the rear of the knuckle assembly.

Removal

Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer.

Loosen hub nut while the vehicle is on the floor with the brakes
applied.

The hub and drive shaft are splined together through the knuckle
(bearing) and retained by the hub nut.

Raise vehicle.

Remove hub nut, washer, and wheel and tire assembly.

Disconnect tie rod end from steering arm.

Remove clamp bolt securing ball joint stud into steering knuckle.

Remove caliper guide pins and separate caliper assembly from braking
disc. SUPPORT CALIPER WITH WIRE HOOK AND NOT BY HYDRAULIC HOSE. Remove
brake rotor.

Separate ball joint stud from knuckle assembly. Pull knuckle assembly
out and away from drive shaft. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate
the
Inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow drive shaft to hang
by inner C/V joint, drive shaft must be supported.

Remove the four hub and bearing assembly mounting screws from rear of
steering knuckle.


Remove hub and bearing assembly. Replacement of the grease seal is
recommended whenever this service is performed.
-
Bearing.gif in my documents\my pictures nice picture


Installation


Install new hub and bearing assembly and tighten screws in a
criss-cross pattern to 45 foot pounds. CAUTION: Knuckle and bearing
mounting surfaces must be smooth and completely free of foreign
material or nicks.
Position new seal in recess.

Assemble tool and install seal. CAUTION: During any service procedures
where knuckle and drive shaft are separated, thoroughly clean seal and
wear sleeve and relubricate BOTH components.

Lubricate the full circumference of the seal (and wear sleeve) with
Multi-Purpose Lubricant.

Install drive shaft through hub, then install steering knuckle assembly
on lower control arm ball joint stud.

Install original (or equivalent) ball joint to knuckle clamp bolt,
torque to 70 foot pounds.

Install tie rod end into steering arm, tighten nut to 35 foot pounds
torque and install cotter key.

Install brake rotor.

Carefully lower caliper over braking disc and guide hold-down spring
under machined abutment on knuckle assembly. Install guide pins and
tighten to 18-26 foot pounds. When installing guide pins, use extreme
caution not to cross the threads.

Install washer and hub nut after cleaning foreign matter from threads.
With brakes applied, tighten nut to 180 foot pounds.
Install spring washer, nut lock, and new cotter pin. Wrap cotter pin
prongs tightly around nut lock.

Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten wheel nuts to 85 foot pounds.

This is just an outline, if you get a Chiltons Manual it will have the
complete procedure, with diagrams, that might be better for you to work
from.

Additional Information provided courtesy of AllDATA

 

Ball joint stays together, just remove the tire, axle nut with a good impact
wrench or breaker bar and the 4 -15 mm bolts holding the bearing in the
knuckle and your done

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

Yeah, as Maxpower says, it can be done without separating the ball
joint, if you don't replace the axle seal at the back of the steering
knuckle. The 16-inch wheel models may also have a brake pad extender
bracket you'll have to remove to reach one of the bearing bolts. Takes
a 15/16 socket, I think, and a fair bit of torque. Not much clearance
between the bearing bolts and the CV boot, so take care not to damage
it.

 

Would that also be true for a 1994 Voyager, short wheel base, 14"
wheel, 3.0 Liter Mitsubishi, front-wheel drive van too? Or is that so
for his particular vehicle and the other stuff is so for "mature
minivans?"

 

Been awhile since I had to replace a bearing in that year vehicle but if I'm
not mistaken I believe that bearing is pressed into the Knuckle.

 

What I posted earlier for the 1992 is also for my 1994 Minivan. The
shop manual says "The Unit III Front Hub and Bearing is used on all
Caravan, Voyager and Mini Ram Vans. ... This unit is serviced only as a
complete assembly. It is mounted by four mounting bolts that are
removed from the rear of the steering knuckle. Replacement of the front
(drive) hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove
the steering knuckle from the vehicle."

This sounds and looks as though it is just bolted onto the knuckle,
does it not?

Did you mean that the bear and hub cannot be disassembled although
someone said something. But it's a sealed unit.

I was surprised that the 14" was considerably more money than the 15"
for the hub and bearing assembly. I gather the 14" is not that popular
so costs more even though it's only 4" compared to the 4.5" assembly
for the 15" wheel of this 1994 van.

When you said "pressed," there was some mention of a special tool,
C-4698, but that's for the seating of the hub and bearing seal. The
actual hub and bearing seems to just bolt on to the knuckle.

A piece of cake with all the right tools and parts and seals and
experience

This appears a whole lot more complicated when I used to repack or
replace my bearings on my car and bicycle. I remember one Mobil
mechanic, a bad inner city guy, pretended to repack the bearing but did
not so I took it apart myself. I complained but then did it myself. I
really just wanted to give the work for others to earn their living but
they were not good people. I lived in marginal neighborhoods back then.
Bought some tools and did the work myself.

 

What I posted earlier for the 1992 is also for my 1994 Minivan. The
shop manual says "The Unit III Front Hub and Bearing is used on all
Caravan, Voyager and Mini Ram Vans. ... This unit is serviced only as a
complete assembly. It is mounted by four mounting bolts that are
removed from the rear of the steering knuckle. Replacement of the front
(drive) hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove
the steering knuckle from the vehicle."

This sounds and looks as though it is just bolted onto the knuckle,
does it not?

Did you mean that the bear and hub cannot be disassembled although
someone said something. But it's a sealed unit.

I was surprised that the 14" was considerably more money than the 15"
for the hub and bearing assembly. I gather the 14" is not that popular
so costs more even though it's only 4" compared to the 4.5" assembly
for the 15" wheel of this 1994 van.

When you said "pressed," there was some mention of a special tool,
C-4698, but that's for the seating of the hub and bearing seal. The
actual hub and bearing seems to just bolt on to the knuckle.

A piece of cake with all the right tools and parts and seals and
experience

This appears a whole lot more complicated when I used to repack or
replace my bearings on my car and bicycle. I remember one Mobil
mechanic, a bad inner city guy, pretended to repack the bearing but did
not so I took it apart myself. I complained but then did it myself. I
really just wanted to give the work for others to earn their living but
they were not good people. I lived in marginal neighborhoods back then.
Bought some tools and did the work myself.

 

The 92 Caravan has the wheel bearing pressed into the hub, I know that for
a fact, And yes it is serviceable and no the knuckle does not have to be
removed IF you have the special tools to do it on the vehicle.
It says sealed unit only becuase you cannot grease the bearing, but it is
replaceable