Damn Bendix 10 ABS!

I have a pristine 1991 New Yorker 5th Avenue, and it has had the #685 recall
done twice! Now, the brake pedal is going to the floor(new calipers, pads,
rotors a month ago). Do you think that Chrysler is going to honor the
recall "lifetime" replacement? This car is beautiful, gets 22-25mgp around
town with the 3.8, leather, etc. I would hate to see this car go the scrap
yard because no one can fix the brake problem endemic to 90-93 Chryslers
with ABS. Wish it were a lower line without the ABS and just the regular
power brakes.

 

I have read about owners of this model converting to a conventional braking
system by using parts from a donor non-ABS car.

It might be worth considering if you wish to keep it.

KM

 

I saw that article on Allpar, and it is super complicated! I don't have the
money to have it done by a regular shop(if they would even do it because of
the liability issues concerning brakes). I cannot do that kind of job
myself, but it looks like that someone could run with the ball and do this
conversion for owners like myself.

 

Are you sure you haven't blown a line somewhere? When the Bendix 10
puump/motor went bad
in my 1992, the pedal feel was still quite hard, and you had to "stand on
it" to get any brake action at all since
the pump wasn't supplying any pressure. Can you hear the growl of the pump
running?

 

Yes, the pump is running to raise the pressure. My mechanic checked
everything, replace the flex hoses, etc. Thinking of checking the rear
brakes, pads, springs, cylinders, etc. Is there anything else that might be
doing this? He recommended a complete brake line flush. The "brake" and
"ABS' lights do not come on on the dash, so this has me stumped.

 

Sorry I can't be of more help but the Bendix 10 monstrosity is way beyond my
capability. Sounds like you need a Chrysler mechanic who is intimately
experienced with it if anyone is left who is.

 

Do you have a solid brake pedal when the engine is turned off, but it
becomes soft and goes to the floor when the engine is running?

A friend had a problem like that when he was rebuilding his '70
Cutlass. I think the problem was in the brake booster or the rod
connecting the brake booster to the master brake cylinder actuator
piston.

 

Exactly. The pedal is "hard" normal when the engine if off, but becomes so
low when the engine is on. The trouble is, MoPar Man, the master cylinder
and the ABS are all ONE HUGE UNIT! I have heard that without the recall,
the whole thing is like $1600! I thought about that the fluid was leaking
back from the master cyliner piston rod into the unit, but it is all one,
and therefore, it would have to be replaced as one. What a POS system!
The only reason I got this gem was to have a "drive to the doctor car with
A/C". My only other car, besides my wife's 2010 Avenger is a 1941 Windsor,
wool seats and no A/C. It is a bitch to even drive it down US1 and back
for a short outing without taking a shower in your clothes(Hobe Sound, South
Florida)

 

something i am curious about......try pulling the vacuum hose off the brake
booster with the engine off and stick a long wire tie or wire or something
to use as a make shift "dipstick" down inside the vacuum brake booster.
see if you have any brake fluid leaking into the booster in other words.

not saying that's your issue just something worth looking into.

 

The "booster" is a sealed, nitrogen canister with about 1600 psi. There is
no conventional "round" booster. If I had one of those, I would be happy,
easy to fix and/or replace. There is an article on the Imperial Club
website that shows where someone changed over to regular power brakes, but
it is WAY too complicated, and he warns that this should not be done by
anything other than an expert mechanic. So, that leaves me SOL!