Cirrus brakes

Hey John, I have a 97 Cirrus with rear brake concerns. It was brought to me
a couple weeks ago with a bad noise, when dis-assemble I found the right
rear pads completely gone and wheel cylinder leaking, and of course a
damaged drum. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders, both drums, shoes and
all hardware. Within a couple of days she started experiencing a noise from
the rear brakes, then she last the brakes. When I dis-assembled them, again
I found the right rear wheel cylinder leaking and the shoes gone completely.
It got so hot that it melted the rubber off of the wheel cylinder and the
nylon insert of the hub nut. One of the retaining clips was missing and I
assume that is what destroyed the abs sensor. Thought that maybe I left
something loose and was my fault!! I replaced the drum and wheel cylinder
and hub along with new shoes.
Three days later the same noise is back, inspected the brakes and found
everything ok so far. Noise comes and goes but is from the rear brakes, have
you seen any big concerns with these brakes.

BTW the ABS light was and is on, came on after the first destruction of the
shoes.
Tried to read codes with aftermarket scanner but could not access abs
module, fuses and all that checked out. Looking like it may have to go to
dealer.

Also, all parts used have been aftermarket up to this point.

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!!

Kevin Fair

 

it is your fault the rubber brake line is getting squeezed shut by the mounbt
and you failed to see that

 

yep went threw the same problem/process myself on a 95. In my case the
rubber hose was NEVER kinked or pinched. From experience I knew the
rubber hose was coming apart internally and that created a blockage
which resulted in a very slow release. First time I just figured the
wheel cylinder seals went bad but when I went to bleed the wheel
cylinder I noticed very slow fluid coming out compared to other wheels.
You'll most likely need to replace the ABS sensor also; I'm
searching for one myself as I type this.

Randy

 

Also you can do a pretty good job of testing the wheel sensor using a
volt meter. It's been a while but I think autozone.com has a
resistance spec and on ac you should have a small amount of voltage
generated when you spin the hub. I compared reading from both my rears
and easily determined the sensor on the exploded side went bad.