Car stalling/surging

My 97 Chrysler Concorde is occasionally stalling sometimes it has surged there's been an occasional loss of power almost feels like somebody stepped on the brake and then hit the gas very quickly.
I have had the crankshaft position sensor changed, spark plugs and wires and the cam sensor changed. Anybody got any ideas for me, how's about the throttle position sensor?
The engine light has come on and come off periodically twice I took it into an AutoZone and they hooked it up and it read that it was the EGR valve. A month ago the engine light went back off and has now come back on and still says that it's EGR valve.
Two retired mechanics said that the symptoms do not sound like the EGR valve.
I was told to have a TBI service, a person said he doesn't believe that's the problem.
Help!

 

Hallo Mae,
Sounds like my 96 Chrysler Concorde LXi 3.5 L. The problem was short somewhere between Coolant Temperature Sensor and PCM (also known as ECM, the main computer). Read my post "Door Locking without Cause". Using "key dancing routine" check if PCM has code 12 (which reads The PCM sensed lost of power supply). The wire that had the short was TAN with BLACK tracer coming from the Coolant Temperature Sensor going "somewhere" and eventually returning to PCM. According to the Chrysler Repair Manual (CRP) the wire just goes thru 2 connection before arriving to the PCM - it has no branches. BTW, it looks like many other electrical problems are gone, among them unexpected Door Locking which is controlled by another computer called Body Control Module (BCM) Also occasional flickering of A/C temperature Digital Display is no longer, this is also controlled by the BCM. Nor the wipers get "stuck" on working.- also controlled by BCM. On several electrical pages of CRP I found that PCM and BCM communicate. To me it looks like the PCM (the main computer) was getting confused by the short and in turn it would confuse BCM. That's in addition to engine jerking/stalling/hesitating/unintended acceleration. If I find time I will post more info in the future. Jacek

 

Hallo Mae,

Might add that sometime the Coolant Temp Gauge Needle went from Normal to Cold and back to Normal. Sometime on start up it took several seconds for the needle to get to Normal (with warm engine). All this of course before the repair (cutting off both ends of that pesky wire and installing a bypass). BTW, the mechanic used some special electrical "meter" to discover the short, although before the repair I told him all those funny symptoms - including the Temp Needle strange behaviour. Jacek