Can you replace just the rubber hose on a transmission cool line?

I have a transmission cool line that broke loose from its clamp and
got a hole rubbed in it by the drivebelt. The only problem is getting
the entire line assembly off is near impossible with its location. My
question is, since the line is metal with a rubber hose that looks to
be crimped on can I just replace the rubber hose?


Sorry for the quality of the pic had to use my crap cam.


Pic
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/100_0374.jpg

Running a
1998 Chrysler Concorde 3.2l v6


Im lookin for an answer I wanna hear Bill Putney!!

 

Pshaw!!

Just buy some power steering hose of the right size (measure OD of the
metal tube with some calipers) at the auto parts store and put it on the
metal tubing with regular screw clamps. There's very little pressure in
that line, so even if there's no retention bump on the metal tube, the
friction should retain it fine - just get the clamps nice and tight.
Use a dremel/Mototool with cutoff wheel to remove the crimp ferrule.
And of course make sure it isn't going to rub against anything.

If you don't want to replace the whole length of rubber hose, cut out
the bad section and make the splice using the right size brake tubing
and screw clamps. That will be possible and make for an easier repair
if the hole is away from the crimp ( preferably at least an inch - can't
tell from the photo). Just be sure to bend the tubing if needed for
hose routing and debur the ends of the tubing so as not to cut thru the
rubber hose from the inside over time. If the hole is too near the
crimp, then put a new short section of p.s. hose at that end and adapt
to the remaining section of rubber hose with a short length of brake tubing.

And of course you could cut off the metal tubing with the crimp - use a
tubing cutter, not a saw or cut-off wheel to minimize metal filings in
the system.

Good luck with that - it's a tight area to work in. Maybe you can
disconnect that line at the radiator end which might allow you to get
the part you need to work on more out in the open (below the engine).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

See now those are the answers I like to hear


The hole is about 4 inches from the metal crimp so I think Im going to
go with your cut and couple idea with some good tight hoses.


Funny thing was I had almost the exact same problem on a computer I
have thats water cooled and I did the same thing willy nilly no
questions asked. If I only had that same confidence with cars Ide be
set


Thanks again Bill. If you ever have any computer problems gimme a yell.

 

You're welcome. I just might take you up on that.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Ill update if all works well. feel free to email me with any tech
questions.

 

What is the winter climate where you're located?
I can tell you for fact that the hose will blow off if the temperatures
get low and the tube you're splicing to doesn't have a barb to restrict
the hose from sliding off.

 

Even with almost no pressure in the hose?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Yes. I got a very panicked call 2 winters ago from the owner of a 96
LHS.
He was going to work in the morning and one of the hoses someone had
scabbed in blew off and he now had a huge puddle of ATF+3 all over his
driveway. Took a bit for me to understand from his description what had
happened, it was a bit of a drive to where the vehicle was stranded and
I wanted to make sure I brought along proper tooling. I put the
beginnings of a bubble flare on the tubes where the hose was scabbed in
and all was well once we refilled the transaxle.
The overnight low then was probably +5 or 10 degrees F., not the coldest
for around here but nippley enough.

 

Oh I dont worry about the cold I live in Houston so the only
temperature here is hot and slightly less hot,


I ended up getting a 9mm hose from autozone made for trans fluid and a
copper tube mender with barbs on it, It took about 20 minutes to get
it in the tubes so that along with a clip will keep me safe (fingers
crossed)

 

That should be fine.

 

Actually, just cut through the line right at the leak. If it's in the metal
line, move the two (cut) ends apart enough to slide appropriate hose over
both sections and clamp both ends (with two clamps per end, if you're
worried). If the leak was in the rubber hose, same technique but slide a
length of metal brake line inside the cut ends and clamp. This way your
patch is holding pressure only at the leak/cut -- almost a direct line from
one section of the old hose into the other...

 

Well gentlemen I am very happy to report that after splicing the new
tubing on and putting 8 quarts of trans fluid (I think I might be a
little over on that) That the car started up and shifted right into
gear with no problems whatsoever.



Once again, thank you all for your unending help!

 

You're welcome.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')