"maxpower" wrote:
Nope, not a reflash problem. If this person had a good scan tool he would be able to monitor the inputs and outputs of all sensors while the problem was happening, if they didn't see anything on the scan tool the next thing would be to do a fuel pressure test.
Sounds to me like they didn't want to get involved in the problem and want to blow it off to the dealer.
My opinion
There are ways to look at the adaptive fuel memories to see if the vehicle is running lean or rich at the time the vehicle was acting up, our scan tool will show what is called a secondary indicator meaning if it picks up a glitch in a sensor that is to fast to set a mature fault it will alert the technician what fault is trying to be set. we also use a tool called the Co-Pilot which will take a picture of everything the engine controller is doing so many seconds before and after the problem occurs. Maybe find a dealer that has a good diagnostician that will tell you what the problem is. Just curious what state are you in?Just got off the phone with him. He said he was able to do that and was surprised that he didn't see anything when the vehicle would die. I asked him about the fuel pressure test and he said they inserted a fuel pressure meter in line (had a Schrader type valve fitting on it) and didn't see any drop of pressure when it died.
Yeah, possibly. They're not charging me anything and the guy requested that I call him and let him know what the dealership finds out.
Very interesting.
I'm in Minnesota and in my area the only dealer that can look at it before next Wednesday is Shakopee Dodge. (My area means within 15 miles of my house, or the approximate distance I can drive before the car warms up and starts dropping out.) Other dealers close by are Park Jeep/Chrysler (Burnsville), Walser Chrysler/Jeep (Hopkins), Bloomington Chrysler/Jeep, and Dodge of Burnsville.
"maxpower" wrote:
There are ways to look at the adaptive fuel memories to see if the vehicle is running lean or rich at the time the vehicle was acting up, our scan tool will show what is called a secondary indicator meaning if it picks up a glitch in a sensor that is to fast to set a mature fault it will alert the technician what fault is trying to be set. we also use a tool called the Co-Pilot which will take a picture of everything the engine controller is doing so many seconds before and after the problem occurs.
Maybe find a
dealer that has a good diagnostician that will tell you what the problem is. Just curious what state are you in?
I'm in Minnesota and in my area the only dealer that can look at it before next Wednesday is Shakopee Dodge. (My area means within 15 miles of my house, or the approximate distance I can drive before the car warms up and starts dropping out.) Other dealers close by are Park Jeep/Chrysler (Burnsville), Walser Chrysler/Jeep (Hopkins), Bloomington Chrysler/Jeep, and Dodge of Burnsville.
aarcuda69062 wrote:
You might give Quinn's Automotive on Chestnut Blvd. a try.
Knifeblade_03 wrote:
por, I have a bad feeling you are chasing the same end of the tail, without listening for other ways to diagnose.
Since your losing the tach signal it is related to the crank sensor/circuit. When you put the crank sensor in, did you make sure it was pushed in all the way? I don't have time to read all the replies but remember you mentioning something about the paper.More info.
I drove the car home from the shop last night. As soon as I started it, the Service Engine Soon light was on. I got about 2/3 of the way home before the first stall out. This happened while stopped at a stop light while idling. Engine starts stumbling, tach is bouncing down, then back to idle, then down and it dies. Put it in park, turned key off, turn key on, cranked engine and continued on my way. About a mile later same thing happened--died while idling at a stop sign. Put it in park, restart car. The last time it died I was making a right turn (via a separate turn lane where I didn't need to come to a stop) when car simply quit. Put in neutral while rolling and restarted and continued home.
Once I got home I checked the error code. My old friend, error code 54.
Knowing it doesn't die when cold, I use the vehicle to bring my kids to school this morning. On the way home the Service Engine Soon light winks out. Error code 54 is still present.
"maxpower" wrote:
Since your losing the tach signal it is related to the crank sensor/circuit. When you put the crank sensor in, did you make sure it was pushed in all the way? I don't have time to read all the replies but remember you mentioning something about the paper.
"maxpower" wrote:
Since your losing the tach signal it is related to the crank sensor/circuit. When you put the crank sensor in, did you make sure it was pushed in all the way? I don't have time to read all the replies but remember you mentioning something about the paper.
"maxpower" wrote:
I have seen so many transmission jobs (recently done) come into the shop because of a problem such as yours. And most of the time the paper was still on the sensor. Just going from park to drive would sometimes cause the engine to shut down . And no it may not cause a problem at start up. If you aren't sure, before taking it to the shop again maybe remove the sensor and see if the paper is still on it.
Just a thought
philthy wrote:
please keep us posted
the crank and cam sensors can be watched with a lab scope and most good scan tools have them. i even have access to a libary of square wave patterns that is made by these sensors. the big question is are you willing to pay for getting it checked out
As I've said, it's going to the dealership on Tuesday. I just thought Maxpower and others would want an update as to what was going on.
Will do. I've sure gotten good at removing the darn thing. The problem being if I remove it and the paper spacer is gone, then I've got to glue a new paper spacer on there and reinstall and hope I've got it in far enough. Even then, supposing I drive it until it warms up and it doesn't stumble, doesn't light up the Service Engine Soon light, how will I know I've fixed it once and for all? After all, I drove it around fully warmed up for about 45 miles the first time I replaced the cam sensor.
I guess I'd still want to keep my appointment at the dealership and have them check it out just to be sure.
(And aarcuda69062 will rip me for dinking around with the crank sensor again!)
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result...
Will do. I've sure gotten good at removing the darn thing. The problem being if I remove it and the paper spacer is gone, then I've got to glue a new paper spacer on there and reinstall
and hope I've got it in
far enough. Even then, supposing I drive it until it warms up and it doesn't stumble, doesn't light up the Service Engine Soon light, how will I know I've fixed it once and for all? After all, I drove it around fully warmed up for about 45 miles the first time I replaced the cam sensor.
philthy said:please keep us posted
the crank and cam sensors can be watched with a lab scope and most good scan tools have them.