Best Struts/shocks - 2000 Concorde 110K Miles

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by jaygreg, Nov 25, 2009.

  1. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    I need to replace the suspension on this car and plan to buy the parts
    at Summit Racing (links provided). I could use some help with the
    decision. Which if the options is the best for my car? I've recapped
    the options below followed by a few other questions:

    From Summit Racing:

    Front Passenger
    Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71667ST $79.95|Asc
    KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB 235617 $59.95|Asc&page=2

    Front Driver
    Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71668ST $79.95|Asc
    KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB 235618 $59.95

    Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71669ST $69.95|Asc

    KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB-235619 $59.95|Asc

    1) Which brand is best for my car?
    2) Should I replace coil springs as well? All four?
    3) Do I need " Monroe strut-Mate Mounting Kits"? 903901MM $69.95
    a) Just one plate per shock?
    b) Replace all four?
    jaygreg, Nov 25, 2009
  2. jaygreg

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    1) Without even following the links, the first question just doesn't
    even make sense without some idea of what you want. I really like KYB,
    but I also like a stiffer spring than the published rating.

    2) Why do you think you might need to replace the springs? Are they
    sagging? Do you want a stiffer spring than stock?

    3) Dunno.
    Joe Pfeiffer, Nov 25, 2009
  3. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Thanks for the reply, Joe. Let me answer your questions:
    I want as smooth a ride as possible. I seldom carry anything other
    than myself; heavy loads are not an issue. I dislike sports car type
    rides (bumpy).

    I was acting upon what the instructor/mechanic suggested; a complete
    assembly that included the coil. When I told him it wasn't available
    for my car, he said "That's OK. Just replace the struts" (Are these
    struts or shocks ... and what's the difference?)

    Are those plates "usually" replaced when people replace their struts?
    According to the description that goes with their pictures on the
    website, they talk about ensuring a smooth ride. Is it "bunk" if the
    original plates aren't damaged or worn? (But surely they'd be worn
    after 110K miles, wouldn't they?)
    jaygreg, Nov 25, 2009
  4. jaygreg

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    Complete assemblies are available from Monroe, called "quick struts"
    part numbers are;
    RF- 171667
    LF- 171668
    Rear 171669

    Expect to pay $100 or so more for the quick strut per unit above what
    the strut sells for individually. Saves labor and there are no surprise
    'we need that part but can't get it today' issues.
    Problem is; they are Monroe, the KYB is a far better product.
    I've had too many instances of Monroe shocks that were noisy right out
    of the box.

    Difference between a shock and a strut; a shock absorber is typically a
    stand alone part, a strut typically captures the spring (spring and
    shock together) and in the case of the fronts, serves as the upper
    steering pivot point akin to the lower ball joint.
    Not always worn after 110K miles, they can rust and rot though,
    primarily the plates that actually support the top of the spring.

    Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM)
    seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
    aarcuda69062, Nov 25, 2009
  5. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    The entire sway bar or just some connector? What's the name of the
    part I should look up?seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
    jaygreg, Nov 25, 2009
  6. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    "Sway (or stabilizer) bar end link" - it is a rigid round bar about 1
    foot long with a small ball joint on both ends - the ball joint stud on
    one end connects to the sway bar, and connects to a bracket that is
    attached to (pre-welded to) the strut on the other end.

    Here's a photo of mine of two of them together:

    They happen to be a Moog and a TRW version of the part (the parts stores
    sell them interchangeably in the same box under the same part number
    since Moog and TRW are the same company and for some reason continue to
    make both versions - the Moog (their "Problem Solver" line) has grease
    fittings and is hecho en Mexico, the TRW is made in USA.
    Bill Putney, Nov 25, 2009
  7. jaygreg

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    jaygreg, look closely at Bills picture, the part on top is different
    than the part on the bottom, notice that the part on top has a hex at
    the base of the threaded stud. This makes installation and removal a
    whole lot easier because it gives a way to grab the stud with a wrench.
    The version on the bottom will spin miserably once the nut is cracked
    loose. better doesn't -have- to be a hex, two flats work well also.
    Stock IIRC is usually an internal hex for an allen wrench which will
    bust out when you try to torque past any rust and or just by the
    friction of the lock nut.
    aarcuda69062, Nov 26, 2009
  8. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    That's a good point you make.
    It does have a much smaller hex to keep it from turning - on the tip of
    the stud (small enough hex that the nut is a free to slip over it). The
    size of that hex on the tip is 5/16" or 8 mm (not sure which they
    intended - probably 8 mm - *BUT*, 5/16" will fit and is slightly tighter
    (which is good in this case, because it needs all the torque capability
    it can have). Whichever you use - 8 mm or 5/16" socket or box end, it
    *MUST* be a 6 point (vs. 12 point) if, as aarcuda points out, it has
    much corrosion at all.
    As an owner of two Concordes (a '99 and a '98), I can say that mine came
    from the factory with the type on the bottom of the photo (IOW, TRW is
    the OEM supplier). As I point out above, it is not an internal hex, but
    an external hex - *BEST* wrench to keep it from turning while you loosen
    the nut is a 5/16" 6-point (8 mm will work, and is probably what it is
    designed for, but it won't fit as snuggly and provide quite as much
    torque before slipping as the 5/16" will - but, again, don't even think
    of using a 12-point).
    Bill Putney, Nov 26, 2009
  9. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    OK guys... UPDATE! The fourth nut was loosed this AM. I'm ready to
    order suspension parts.

    It looks like Joe and aarcuda#s like KYB struts so... I'll go with
    them. I guess I'll order plates as well but...

    Q1) ... are there two plates for the front as well as two for the
    Q2) What the probability the mechanic will tell me I need new
    stabilizers? It may take me 24 hours to get them so... what's their
    approximate price? (Maybe I'll buy them on a rubber band and return
    them id not used. If Summit Racing will let me.)
    Q3) Just to recap... aside from Q2, I should order front and rear
    shocks plus (2 or 4?) plates?
    jaygreg, Dec 1, 2009
  10. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    The stabilizer or sway bars don't go bad. You can upgrade to 300M
    Special/Police sway bars, but as far as your original ones going bad -
    they don't.
    Bill Putney, Dec 2, 2009
  11. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Did I misread aarcuda?>> Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the
    strut, they (stock OEM)
    seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
    jaygreg, Dec 2, 2009
  12. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    He was talking about the stabilizer bar (sway bar) end links. You said
    stabilizer, which means the sway bar itself. The end link (one on each
    end of the sway bar) is a stiff rod approx. 12" long that has a ball
    joint on both ends. One end connects to the sway bar, the other
    connects to a bracket attached to the strut.

    Yes - certainly the end links (their ball joints) do go bad and need
    replacing periodically.
    Bill Putney, Dec 2, 2009
  13. jaygreg

    jaygreg Guest

    Got it! What about those "plates"? Are there 2 or 4?
    jaygreg, Dec 2, 2009
  14. Considering that most cars just use rubber for the link ends I would
    think an end link that's built like a tie rod end or ball joint ought
    to last the life of the vehicle. Do they really wear out?
    Ashton Crusher, Dec 2, 2009
  15. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    Yeah - well - that's what you get for thinking! LOL!

    Seriously - As an owner of two Concordes and years-long participant on 3
    different LH car-specific forums, I can say with complete confidence
    that they definitely do. Prolly 8+ times out of 10, if the front end is
    clunking on speed bumps/pot holes/etc., it's either the sway bar
    bushings or the end links (or both) needing replacing.
    Bill Putney, Dec 2, 2009
  16. jaygreg

    Bill Putney Guest

    If by 'plates', you mean the mounting kits (bearing/mount assemblies), I
    would say definitely you should replace the fronts. The rears I'm not
    too sure about. I believe the rears are just a solid metal part since
    they do not have to rotate like the fronts do with steering. The fronts
    support the weight of the car while turning and have a bearing built
    into them and definitely should be replaced with the struts.

    I am confident in what I say about the fronts, but am not too sure of
    how accurate what I said about the rears is (which is why I ignored your
    question on that earlier), so hopefully someone who knows the answer to
    that will chime in.
    Bill Putney, Dec 2, 2009
  17. jaygreg

    Rob Guest

    i replaced the right sway bar end link on the LHS last year due to the fact
    it was making a popping noise and jerking a little every time i turned the
    wheel. its still good and tight a year later but i checked the left one
    this weekend to see how tight it was and i has lots of back and forth play.
    didnt disconnect it and use a pry bar to check for play , but I'm sure after
    169,000 miles it is needing a new one.

    i haven't checked my sway bar bushings but i look on others peoples vehicles
    from time to time in the shop and they tend to shrink , shrivel, etc and
    pull away from the sway bar, causing it to make noise. real common on high
    mileage mini vans.
    Rob, Dec 3, 2009
  18. jaygreg

    Rob Guest

    speaking of struts. i see quick struts are available for some LH bodies and
    not for others. first gen anyway. i haven't looked into 2nd gen.

    but they are available for the first gen Concorde but not the LHS and
    Newyorker. I'm sure there is a reason for it but I'm not sure what it is
    right now.

    Rob, Dec 3, 2009
  19. jaygreg

    Steve Guest

    What's worse, the ball-joint (or even Heim-joint) type get really,
    really, really NOISY as they start to wear out. As soon as any play at
    all develops, you get a "clunk" every time the end link has to go from
    tension to compression.
    Steve, Dec 15, 2009
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