Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by For sale, Aug 1, 2003.

  1. For sale

    For sale Guest

    I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through....

    I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep
    Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4
    door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online
    regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw
    that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a
    Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable
    than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All
    three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but
    I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace
    brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email
    or post) would be greatly appreciated.
    For sale, Aug 1, 2003
  2. I have a simple what ever jeep you want (they are both
    awsom..I own a 98 cherokee) and purchase fully metalic pads and cross
    drilled rotors....and yes most cherokees have front brake prob's. I replaced
    mine after 30,000k (I did a cross Canada tour plus a trip to Salt Lake
    Mike Debacker, Aug 1, 2003
  3. For sale

    Road Toad Guest

    My '97 Cherokee Sport (2dr, Auto, 2wd) had those 'thin' rotors and they were
    replaced at 55k when the brakes were done. No problem since at 110k.
    Replacing rotors is not uncommon so this is just a bit earlier than usual.

    Love my Jeep.
    Road Toad, Aug 2, 2003
  4. For sale

    Thomas W. Guest

    Mine started warping at around 10k or less. That IS a problem. They are
    doing it again at 20k.

    03 TJ Rubicon
    01 XJ Sport

    There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
    -- Dave Barry
    (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
    Thomas W., Aug 2, 2003
  5. For sale

    Earle Horton Guest

    It is not so bad once you start thinking of them as service parts, like an
    oil filter...

    Earle Horton, Aug 2, 2003
  6. For sale

    John Sevey Guest

    Not sure about the 2WD Cherokee, but the 4WD had a recall sometime around
    2000 due to the possibility that the brake rotor could separate. I think that
    this was mostly in the "rust belt" areas of the US where road salt is commonly
    used. There may have also been issues with warping, but I don't remember there
    being any recall for that.

    My '98 4WD Cherokee had the original rotors replaced at about 15000 miles due to
    warping. The replacement rotors lasted all the way up to about 50000 miles.
    At that time, they were replaced again due to the "rotor separation" recall.
    The replacement rotors only lasted about 15000 miles -- like the originals.

    I've now gone with after market el-cheapo rotors as replacements. So far
    they've made it past 10000 without warping. The nice part is that the
    ordinary cheap replacements on the 4WD Cherokee only cost about $20 and are
    easy to replace. I'm not sure, but the 2WD Cherokee's rotors may include
    the wheel bearing surfaces, too. The 4WD uses a non-user-serviceable bearing
    hub. Because the bearing is separate from the brake rotor, the rotors on the
    4WD Cherokee are simple and cheap to replace.
    Some folks have said that aftermarket cross drilled rotors last much
    longer. I'll probably try a set of those after I see how far the
    cheap ones go.

    Good luck.

    John Sevey, Aug 3, 2003
  7. For sale

    Jim Hunter Guest

    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee which I bought used 1 year ago with 25k miles
    on the odometer. The first thing I did after purchasing was to take it my
    dealer and complain about brake pedal pulsing (a sign o warped rotors). The
    fix was new improved frt calipers, new rotors, new pads...all covered under
    warranty. I beleive the problem is NOT the rotors, but a design defect in
    the calipers. I have put 25k miles more miles on this new front brake setup,
    with NO brake rotor warping, no problems. Also, I suggest that you take the
    time to use a torque wrench to tighten each of the lug nuts to 85 lbs/in.
    That helps prevent warpage, I think.

    It seems to have taken Jeep 3 years (1999-2002) to figure out and fix the
    design defect in the front brake system. ASK FOR NEW FRT BRAKE CALIPERS,
    Jim Hunter, Aug 16, 2003
  8. For sale

    DougW Guest

    85 is a bit low. spec should be 95-105. At any rate, trust the book.
    What prevents warpage is having all the lugs properly torqued.
    DougW, Aug 16, 2003
  9. 85 ft-lbs. is what my MOPAR FSM says for the low-end of the allowable torque

    Jerry Bransford
    To email, remove 'me' from my email address
    See the Geezer Jeep at
    Jerry Bransford, Aug 16, 2003
  10. For sale

    DougW Guest

    Yea. I just checked, your correct. I use 95 for almost every wheel except for
    mags or lugs with flat surfaces. Wonder if using the low side would be better?
    DougW, Aug 16, 2003
  11. For sale

    Just Taylor Guest

    That's odd... just had new BFG All Terrains put on my '98 XJ and
    according to Costco, the manufacturers torque rating was 115lbs. I have
    been doing 90lbs. myself....


    '89 Audi 200
    '03 Audi S6 Avant
    '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport
    Just Taylor, Aug 16, 2003
  12. For sale

    DougW Guest

    There are several.

    1) heat soak
    When you use the brakes a lot then sit there at the light with your foot
    on the brake. The pads hold heat in the rotor and that difference affects
    the material and can lead to warping.
    2) drenching
    When you get the brakes real hot then stick them in water (like a stream
    3) Worn caliper mounting bolts
    As these things age the brake pads don't always back off and sometimes one
    side of the pad will ride against the rotor. Always check pad thickness.
    If one pad is thinner than the other you have this problem.
    4) Worn piston
    If the piston doesn't retract properly the brakes will rub and get hot
    5) Defective rotors
    DC stock rotors/two piece/ el-cheapo
    6) Improper turning of rotors/surfacing of rotors
    Midas (for example) and some other chains use the old milling machines
    with one blade, not the multiblade rotary milling machines. What was good
    for gramp's vehicle isn't good for modern rotors.
    7) Probably should be up higher.... Impropper break-in of new rotors/pads
    If you don't break in rotors properly they will not wear well.
    The procedure is fairly easy.. stillen has it on the website last I checked.

    That's just a few.
    DougW, Aug 17, 2003
  13. For sale

    Bill Putney Guest

    A coupla more ideas:
    1) When you torque (re-torque) the lug nuts, it is best to have the
    weight off the wheel thru the entire torqueing process (have someone
    apply the brakes if necessary for the last stage of torqueing - probably
    won't be necessary - parking pawl is generally sufficient - at least for
    the fronts). If you let the weight down on the wheel during the
    torqueing, not only a vertical force, but a tremendous side force is put
    on the tire and wheel as the geometry of the suspension changes as the
    springs settle from the vehicle weight and can result in residual
    stresses in the installed wheel/hub assembly (one more factor that can
    be eliminated).

    2) For extra insurance against warping, especially on a problem vehicle,
    you can have a new set of rotors cryogenically treated - will cost $75
    plus shipping for treatment of a pair of rotors (based on: $1.50/pound
    with min. job charge of $75 - a typical rotor would weigh in the
    neighborhood of 15 to 21 pounds - rears are almost certainly not the
    problem - only necessary to do the fronts). I recommend I had new rotors (fronts only) done on my '99
    Concorde (LH cars are also plaqued by rotor warping) several months ago,
    and the brakes are as smooth today as when I first put them on - and I
    just spent a week vacation in the mountians of West Virginia with 3-mile
    8 to 10% downhill grades braking from 55 mph to 15 mph for hairpin turns
    - I think I just proved (to myself anyway) that there is something to
    this cryo-treating). Side benefits: Rotor wear is decreased to 1/2 to
    1/3 of non-treated rotors, pad wear decreased to 80% of normal; friction
    coefficient somewhere between unchanged to slight increase.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
    Bill Putney, Aug 22, 2003
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