98 voyager 3.0l tensioner replacement

Discussion in 'Voyager' started by srp204, Jul 5, 2007.

  1. srp204

    srp204 Guest

    I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once
    outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes
    manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are
    loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's
    tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton
    manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the
    local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part
    from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for
    $70. he wants $185.)
    I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about
    this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have
    learned and really love to tell the world.
    Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need
    the 15mm or 14mm long socket,
    Thanks for any advice
     
    srp204, Jul 5, 2007
    #1
  2. srp204

    april1st Guest

    The most painless way for dealing with these problems is to get
    Factory Service Manual (FSM) -- if you do no tlike the idea of
    shelling out $100+ for the FSM then you can get a one day access to
    the FSM (and print out whatever portions of it you'd like) at

    www.techauthority.com

    The cost is $20 for 1 day access to any Chrysler FSM (covers the past
    15+ model years).

    Thanks,

    Alex
     
    april1st, Jul 5, 2007
    #2
  3. srp204

    philthy Guest

    the wiper cowl has 2 drains on the bottom one on each side and one on the right is
    right above the acc. belt and if it is off water will pour right on the belts and they
    will fling off
     
    philthy, Jul 6, 2007
    #3
  4. srp204

    exiledtiger Guest

    I've recently replaced the heads (and water pump, radiator, timing
    belt, serpentine belt, alternator, plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, etc
    as I was in there anyway) on the 3.0L V6, this one being in a 93
    Plymouth Sundance Duster - yes, that little car with the 3.0L V6 runs
    like a rocket. The work included removing and reinstalling the
    serpentine belt tensioner. Also have had a couple of minivans with the
    same engine, but none since the early to mid 90's, so I can't testify
    to the relevance to your engine of the information I am providing.
    Here it is anyway...

    After reading your post, I checked my old Chilton manual for the
    minivans and was surprised by the lack of information, detail and
    drawings. If your 98 uses the same Mitsubishi 3.0L V6, as the earlier
    minivans, try the Haynes manual for the Dodge Shadow/Plymouth
    Sundance & Duster, manual no 30055. Chapter 2 is the engine overhaul
    in 3 sub-chapters - 2A is the 4 cyl overhaul, 2B the Mitsubishi 3.0L
    V6 overhaul, 2C the general engine over haul info. Illustration 10.6c
    on page 2B-11 is an excellent exploded view of the brackets & pullleys
    that bolt onto the engine - lots of greasy fingerprints on mine,
    refered to it a lot. Section 10 in chapter 2B is the timing belt
    removal and replacement which includes removing the serpentine belt
    and tensioner. The procedure is to jack up the front passenger side,
    remove the wheel and the splash guards so you can get to everything,
    remove the serpentine drive belt. The tensioner pulley is mounted on
    the housing of what the manual calls the tensioner assembly. Removing
    the nut in the middle of the pulley only removes the pulley. The
    tensioner assembly is mounted on the alternator bracket with one bolt
    that sticks thru the bracket to the rear (defining the front of the
    engine as where the pulleys are, so the front of the engine is to the
    passenger side of the car), so you have to reach around behind the
    alternator bracket to get to the nut (around where the #1 spark plug
    is). When I did this, the alternator and air cleaner housing were
    already off; I don't know if you can do this without removing the
    alternator, but the air cleaner housing I think definitely has to go.
    Since you already have the serpentine belt off, removing the
    alternator is a breeze anyway - 2 mounting bolts and 5 nuts for the
    wiring harness in the Duster.

    It's been a couple of months since I did this. I remember lots of
    frustration involving the front engine mounting plate, power steering
    pump, and timing belt covers, in particuler what went where first, but
    I think the tensioner assembly was pretty easy. However, everything
    done the first time seems to be a challenge.

    I could possibly scan & email the diagrams from my book if it would
    help. Not as good as the FSM's another responder suggested, but far
    cheaper. The Duster is running great - did it for & with my son, and
    am envious of the fun he is having.

    Good luck
     
    exiledtiger, Jul 7, 2007
    #4
  5. srp204

    jytc2007 Guest

    Hi there, Im now doing replacement of the timing belt tensioner for my
    98 voyager 3.0l, the removal of the belt and alternator is not so hard,
    and seems to have a small and tight access to the tensioner nut at the
    back of the bracket from the top side, I think it would be easier to
    handle than from the bottom. The only thing i can't find the way is
    that i couldn't find any socket to fit that nut to loose the tensioner,
    i tried 15mm, 16mm,17mm, 9/16'',5/8" and 11/16", both 11/16" and 17mm
    sockets are too big, the others are too small? Anyone has an idea what
    tool or bit to use in this case would be helpful, thank you all.
     
    jytc2007, Jul 11, 2007
    #5
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