97 Grand Voyager A/C, Fan and Heater works on high, not on low?

Discussion in 'Voyager' started by Kbaker, May 10, 2004.

  1. Kbaker

    Kbaker Guest

    I have a '97 Grand Voyager The A/C, Vent and Heater both
    blow when switched to high but not at low or any middle fan setting.

    The cool and heat work just fine.

    I read of a set a few years back on holding down a few buttons on the
    panel to "reset" it?

    Kbaker
     
    Kbaker, May 10, 2004
    #1
  2. Kbaker

    Mark Guest

    Blower motor resistor, passenger side firewall next to wheel well
     
    Mark, May 10, 2004
    #2
  3. Kbaker

    kANDLe Guest

    Thanks
    Do you know what this item looks like?
    I looked all over the wheel well. On my 1997 I see the brake fluid
    reservoir, a few connectors and lines for air conditioning.

    Is it big, small ? Easy to see and get to or not easy?

    Kbaker
     
    kANDLe, May 11, 2004
    #3
  4. Kbaker

    Jack Pucci Guest

    On my 86 it was on the firewall on the passenger side it was abuut 2 inches
    by 4 inches and set in a hole in the firewall with a wire connector sticking
    out the back
     
    Jack Pucci, May 11, 2004
    #4
  5. Kbaker

    kANDLe Guest

    Thanks Jack, I did see that connection but did not know that it was
    the Blower motor resistor.
    To do this I must:
    1)un-plug the wire harness
    2)pull the unit out of the firewall? (what's on the other side?)
    3)insert the new part into the firewall
    4)re-plug the wire harness.

    Is this easier or harder than it seems to be?

    Kbaker
     
    kANDLe, May 11, 2004
    #5
  6. Kbaker

    Mike Guest

    Access can be a bit tricky. Often the connector is corroded onto the
    resistor block connection and very difficult to get off. You might just try
    to release the resistor block from the firewall, with the wiring still
    connected. Undo a couple of clamps to get the connector and block out where
    you can work on it better. When I bought my new resistor, it came with a new
    wiring connector and 8 inches or so of wire tail to splice into the existing
    engine wiring harness. When you get it out, it has only the resistor
    windings on the other side.
    It is as easy as you say for the steps, but due to access and stuck
    connector, you may find it not so quick. Make sure to use plenty of
    di-electric on the new connection to prevent future corroding and sticking
    if the connector.
     
    Mike, May 11, 2004
    #6
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