95 Lebaron Convertible moulding prob

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ben Loveridge
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Ben Loveridge

wondering if anyone has found a solution to making it so the car doesn't
leak. it leaks mainly between the driver's window and the back quarter
window (there is a black molding attached to the quarter window). Short of
replacing the window, I don't know how to fix it.

I thought of buying some rubber tape or whatever and putting it under the
molding in other places to have it stick out a little more so that the
window matches up better, but not sure if anyone else has any ideas.

thanks!

Ben
 
You can sometimes get some closed cell foam stick on weatherstrip and
'reinforce' the old weatherstrip. The quarter window's weatherstrip can be
ordered and replaced without replacing the glass.

My LeBaron has never leaked. I keep the selas and weatherstrip soaked in Armor
All quite frequently.

Good Luck!
Bill
88 Lancer Shelby
91 LeBaron Convertible
01 Chevy Impala LS
 
Armor All, or any other alcohol based protectant, is the WORST thing you can
use!

After time, the alcohol evaporates, and takes moisture with it!
 
wondering if anyone has found a solution to making it so the car
doesn't leak. it leaks mainly between the driver's window and the
back quarter window (there is a black molding attached to the quarter
window). Short of replacing the window, I don't know how to fix it.

I thought of buying some rubber tape or whatever and putting it under
the molding in other places to have it stick out a little more so that
the window matches up better, but not sure if anyone else has any
ideas.

If the quarter windows' seals aren't touching the door glass, they
need adjusted. Unfortunately getting at the adjustment bolts is
a pain in the butt. You have to remove the back seat and side
panels. The nastiest part of removing the rear seat is the bottom
cushion. It's held by two plastic sockets that snap into the
floor then the metal loops on the seat snap through them in a
rather permanent way. I tried various selections from my screwdriver
and prybar collection and finally just stuck a large flatblade
between the seat and floor then yanked until the plastic beasties
let go. Then I bought new plastic clips. (I bet there's a secret
special tool that slips in and spreads the heavy plastic tabs
apart to release the seat.)

The backrest has two bolts at the bottom, there's a vertical
screw into the floor through each side panel, another screw
at each side at the top of the door jamb that holds the end of
the chrome trim and another screw each side you have to slide the
hard boot latches to get out. Take out the rearmost two or three
screws on each sill cover so the front end of the side panels
can come out.

Unsnap the liner behind the seat then pull it forward over the
seats to remove the bolts along the seat top and nuts along the
side panel tops. Those nuts also hold the chrome trim.

Now with the top lowered, you and a helper can lift the side
panels and backrest out as a unit, or if you have small hands
and a 10mm flex head Gear Wrench you can unbolt the backrest
from the side panels with them in the car, four bolts per side
with the bottom two needing the Gear Wrench. (I love my
SAE and Metric Gear Wrench sets! Bought my first one to avoid
pulling the V6 in my 1986 Cimarron to replace the flexplate.)

Once the seat and sides are out there are two vertical bolts that hold
the tops of the window mechanisims. With a "wobble" extention and
socket, loosen them just enough to move the window. Get it so that
the front seal is against the door glass and the back edge is
seated in the channel on the top. Tighten the bolts then run the
window down and up to verify it's not trying to rip the rubber
out of the rear channel.


Do the door windows fit properly to the seals on the windshield
posts and to the top? If not, the guides need adjusted. It's
easier to adjust the door windows since on these cars the door
interior panels come off much easier than on most cars. There are
three screws in the carpeted area along the bottom. The door light
pries out from its top egde to get at a screw up inside. There's
one screw down in the door handle "pocket" and another behind
the speaker grille, which pops off easily with a stiff putty
knife or wide, flatblade screwdriver. Remove the grille and
speaker and the door light first to get those screws.
The only plastic press pin is near the top rear. Once all the
screws are out and the window is down, some careful tugging
will either pop it off the panel or out of its plastic
socket in the door. If it pops off the panel, be careful pulling
it out of its socket. It looks like one piece but it's not.
(I found that out after breaking the socket and having to get
a replacement.) I haven't explored adjusting the door windows
except for the two fuzz covered rubber slides at the top.
The driver's door and fender were damaged on my 1990 LeBaron
when I got it and that's all I had to adjust on the window
on the replacement door.

That's the "fun" of buying a fixer-upper used car. You get
to learn all kinds of things about it through fixing it.
(It also helps to have grown up working on cars with a
father who also grew up working on cars.)
 
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