95 Lebaron Convertible moulding prob

Discussion in 'LeBaron' started by Ben Loveridge, Apr 12, 2004.

  1. wondering if anyone has found a solution to making it so the car doesn't
    leak. it leaks mainly between the driver's window and the back quarter
    window (there is a black molding attached to the quarter window). Short of
    replacing the window, I don't know how to fix it.

    I thought of buying some rubber tape or whatever and putting it under the
    molding in other places to have it stick out a little more so that the
    window matches up better, but not sure if anyone else has any ideas.

    thanks!

    Ben
     
    Ben Loveridge, Apr 12, 2004
    #1
  2. Ben Loveridge

    Billccm Guest

    You can sometimes get some closed cell foam stick on weatherstrip and
    'reinforce' the old weatherstrip. The quarter window's weatherstrip can be
    ordered and replaced without replacing the glass.

    My LeBaron has never leaked. I keep the selas and weatherstrip soaked in Armor
    All quite frequently.

    Good Luck!
    Bill
    88 Lancer Shelby
    91 LeBaron Convertible
    01 Chevy Impala LS
     
    Billccm, Apr 13, 2004
    #2
  3. Ben Loveridge

    SMoo Guest

    Armor All, or any other alcohol based protectant, is the WORST thing you can
    use!

    After time, the alcohol evaporates, and takes moisture with it!
     
    SMoo, Apr 15, 2004
    #3
  4. Ben Loveridge

    GAlan Guest

    If the quarter windows' seals aren't touching the door glass, they
    need adjusted. Unfortunately getting at the adjustment bolts is
    a pain in the butt. You have to remove the back seat and side
    panels. The nastiest part of removing the rear seat is the bottom
    cushion. It's held by two plastic sockets that snap into the
    floor then the metal loops on the seat snap through them in a
    rather permanent way. I tried various selections from my screwdriver
    and prybar collection and finally just stuck a large flatblade
    between the seat and floor then yanked until the plastic beasties
    let go. Then I bought new plastic clips. (I bet there's a secret
    special tool that slips in and spreads the heavy plastic tabs
    apart to release the seat.)

    The backrest has two bolts at the bottom, there's a vertical
    screw into the floor through each side panel, another screw
    at each side at the top of the door jamb that holds the end of
    the chrome trim and another screw each side you have to slide the
    hard boot latches to get out. Take out the rearmost two or three
    screws on each sill cover so the front end of the side panels
    can come out.

    Unsnap the liner behind the seat then pull it forward over the
    seats to remove the bolts along the seat top and nuts along the
    side panel tops. Those nuts also hold the chrome trim.

    Now with the top lowered, you and a helper can lift the side
    panels and backrest out as a unit, or if you have small hands
    and a 10mm flex head Gear Wrench you can unbolt the backrest
    from the side panels with them in the car, four bolts per side
    with the bottom two needing the Gear Wrench. (I love my
    SAE and Metric Gear Wrench sets! Bought my first one to avoid
    pulling the V6 in my 1986 Cimarron to replace the flexplate.)

    Once the seat and sides are out there are two vertical bolts that hold
    the tops of the window mechanisims. With a "wobble" extention and
    socket, loosen them just enough to move the window. Get it so that
    the front seal is against the door glass and the back edge is
    seated in the channel on the top. Tighten the bolts then run the
    window down and up to verify it's not trying to rip the rubber
    out of the rear channel.


    Do the door windows fit properly to the seals on the windshield
    posts and to the top? If not, the guides need adjusted. It's
    easier to adjust the door windows since on these cars the door
    interior panels come off much easier than on most cars. There are
    three screws in the carpeted area along the bottom. The door light
    pries out from its top egde to get at a screw up inside. There's
    one screw down in the door handle "pocket" and another behind
    the speaker grille, which pops off easily with a stiff putty
    knife or wide, flatblade screwdriver. Remove the grille and
    speaker and the door light first to get those screws.
    The only plastic press pin is near the top rear. Once all the
    screws are out and the window is down, some careful tugging
    will either pop it off the panel or out of its plastic
    socket in the door. If it pops off the panel, be careful pulling
    it out of its socket. It looks like one piece but it's not.
    (I found that out after breaking the socket and having to get
    a replacement.) I haven't explored adjusting the door windows
    except for the two fuzz covered rubber slides at the top.
    The driver's door and fender were damaged on my 1990 LeBaron
    when I got it and that's all I had to adjust on the window
    on the replacement door.

    That's the "fun" of buying a fixer-upper used car. You get
    to learn all kinds of things about it through fixing it.
    (It also helps to have grown up working on cars with a
    father who also grew up working on cars.)
     
    GAlan, Mar 7, 2005
    #4
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