95 concorde

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by Smitty, Apr 21, 2004.

  1. Smitty

    Smitty Guest

    -- I'm looking at a 95 Concorde with 77K on it. Price is $4,000. The car
    looks and drives like new. What should I watch out for before I buy it?
    Smitty, Apr 21, 2004
  2. Smitty

    Ed M Guest

    Bought a 95 Concord at an auction 1 1/2 years ago. Only problem, so far,
    has been a blown intake manifold gasket on the 3.5L engine. Intake manifold
    gaskets on the 3.5 are a known problem, written up in this group regularly.
    Otherwise, it has been quite satisfactory. Mine also has a 'factory'
    auxiliary transmission cooler. Picked up a 'factory' shop manual on Ebay
    for $40, better than any Haynes or Chilton manual.
    Ed M, Apr 22, 2004
  3. Smitty

    N.Cass Guest

    I have a 95 Eagle Vision Tsi, which is pretty much the same car. Bought
    it with
    54K miles and in a little over 2 years time, it is up to 92K miles. I
    love this car, and it has been great to me this far. I am not sure what
    engine this Concorde you are looking at has or what options it has, but
    the only issues I have had with my car are:

    -Water pump replaced at around 57K miles (3.5 engine)
    -Timing Belt replaced at the same time
    -Brakes at 80K miles
    -Transmission work done at 70K miles (only cause it was under warranty
    and I was picky on how it was shifting)
    -Major tuneup (i.e.: spark plugs, wires, filters, throttle bodies
    cleaned) at 89K miles

    All and all, these really are pretty reliable cars. The only things
    I would keep an eye on are:

    -Rack and pinion steering: move the steering wheel back and forth while
    the car is off and listen for any "pops". If there are then the rack may
    be going bad.
    -Check to see if the Trans has had any service and if so, was Chrysler
    ATF fluid replaced or used?
    -A/C work good? If not the evaperator may be going bad and that is
    expensive to fix

    I hope this information helps, and I wish you good luck in your possible
    N.Cass, Apr 22, 2004
  4. Smitty

    Gene Poon Guest

    In general;

    Transmission should be checked out thoroughly. If it's already a
    rebuild, regard that as a plus, especially if done by a Chrysler dealer
    or a reputable transmission shop.

    Check the steering (but you do say it drives like new). If it is loose
    or creaks, especially when cold, check for bad bushings at the center of
    the steering rack assembly.

    The LH cars developed a lot of creaks and such over time; most are
    plastic-on-plastic, and aren't of that great a concern unless they point
    to collision damage, but you may spend a few weekends trying to track
    them down and cure them. One of the most annoying noises that afflicts
    some of them when going over washboard roads is a vibration in the roof
    panel. From the drivers seat it sounds like it's coming from the trunk.
    It can be cured by lowering the headliner, just enough to insert a
    thin, stiff piece of plastic or cardboard or similar between the roof
    panel and the stiffening brace, so the two can't vibrate against each
    other. The cardboard backing from a legal pad, cut into two strips, is

    Gene Poon, May 3, 2004
  5. If you EVER intend to drive at night outside the well-lit city,
    then test drive it at night, after dark, on an unlit road to make sure
    your X-ray vision is good enough to live with the absolutely abysmal

    Daniel J. Stern, May 3, 2004
  6. Smitty

    Joe Guest

    I have to say, this is the most insightful thing I've seen on usenet in a
    long time. I have 3 LHS's, and I just tracked down an annoying clunk to the
    bushings on the steering rack TODAY (I didn't know they put rubber bushings
    in a tie rod end), and now I've learned how to stop the roof from vibrating.
    Wow! It's going to be like having a new car....

    I have found them to be very, very reliable. But that's how I am with
    everything. No matter how everybody complains about a car, I always get good
    service out of them. I predict if the OP buys this thing with 77k on it and
    drives it to 120k, it'll be rattling a lot more. But other than that it'll
    do fine.
    Joe, May 4, 2004
  7. Smitty

    Art Guest

    Clunking can also be from rear AT mount if it comes from under AT console.
    Art, May 5, 2004
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