94 Lebaron Convertible.. Oil?

Discussion in 'LeBaron' started by SMoo, May 17, 2004.

  1. SMoo

    SMoo Guest

    First, let me start by saying this is my first Mopar.

    This car has a 3.0L, and I've been given different advice on oil to use.

    I typically go with Pennzoil, but am open to suggestions.

    One person told me to use 5w/30, while someone else said 15w/30.

    I use 5w/30 in my wifes Taurus, which has a 3.0L.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks
    Steve
     
    SMoo, May 17, 2004
    #1
  2. SMoo

    N.Cass Guest

    Congratulations! I have always liked LeBaron convertibles, and the 3.0L
    carries this car well.
    I personally do not care for Pennzoil. Seems like every time I use it
    the oil "darkens" faster and the lifters "tick" more (or longer) on cold
    starts than with any other oil. I prefer Valvoline, but other oils like
    Castrol or Mobil 1 work good too.
    This depends on how many miles are on the engine. 5W30 may be too thin
    if the motor has a lot of miles, and if you live in a hot climate
    (Arizona). 10W30 would be a good choice, especially in the Summer.

    Hope this helps!
     
    N.Cass, May 17, 2004
    #2
  3. SMoo

    Steve Guest

    I really wish you'd gotten one with a Mopar engine, you'd get a better
    first impression than you will with this car.
    Which is a Mitsubishi engine. Its got a very reliable bottom end (crank,
    rods block) and a TERRIBLE top end (rings, valves, valve guides). No
    matter what oil you run, it will probably become a blue-smoking oil
    burner before it hits 150,000 miles. Using a top quality synthetic if it
    doesn't ALREADY burn a lot of oil may delay the inevitable with that engine.

    Pennzoil used to be awful, but in the past 3-5 years they've really
    stepped up their product. If I were going with a non-synthetic oil,
    though, I'd go with Castrol GTX. In synthetics, I prefer Mobil 1.
    Use whatever the owners manual recommends as far as oil weight. Probably
    10w30, but check the manual and follow it.
     
    Steve, May 17, 2004
    #3
  4. SMoo

    SMoo Guest

    The car has 106,000 miles on it, and during the summer here in Texas, it
    does get pretty warm.

    This is 2 suggestions that contain Castrol, so I think I'll try Castrol
    GTX...
     
    SMoo, May 17, 2004
    #4
  5. SMoo

    SMoo Guest

    :)

    My first impression of Mopar, which lead me to leave the Ford arena, was a
    Dodge Dart project car I'm helping a buddy with...

    It soon will have a 528 Hemi in it... I still think it should be a split
    rear window Cuda, but no one listens to me until there are a few hundred
    hours of work done already...
     
    SMoo, May 17, 2004
    #5
  6. Probably because there is no such thing as a "split rear window Cuda".
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 17, 2004
    #6
  7. SMoo

    Steve Guest


    Oh, well then you should love this:

    http://tinyurl.com/2w8vk
    http://tinyurl.com/26oef
     
    Steve, May 17, 2004
    #7
  8. SMoo

    Steve Guest

    There COULD be... in the hot-rod arena anything is possible... :)
     
    Steve, May 17, 2004
    #8
  9. ....and the ability of people to chop up perfectly good cars into endless
    varieties of stupid-lookin' idiotmobiles is, well, endless.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 17, 2004
    #9
  10. SMoo

    Matt Whiting Guest

    I've never seen 15W30. If you have an owner's manual, use what it
    recommends. I'm guessing it is either 5W-30 or 10W-30. I'd use 5W in
    the winter and 10W in the summer, unless you are in a warm climate and
    then I'd use 10W-30 all year around. I'm partial to synthetics and use
    Mobil 1, but almost any quality oil will do. Just don't buy the no-name
    brands at Wal-Mart.


    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, May 17, 2004
    #10
  11. SMoo

    SMoo Guest

    A 426 Hemi.. How cute :)

    I'm kidding.. Pretty sweet. I'm not much of an authority on led sleds, but
    it looks pretty well done..

    I'll have to get photos of my friends 69 Charger.. Yes, we've got the rebel
    flag decal ordered...
     
    SMoo, May 18, 2004
    #11
  12. SMoo

    Richard Guest


    In your location I would recommend 10W-30 not 5W-30. Avoid 10W-40 (too much
    viscosity index improver). Your name-brand oil has good reputation. A
    change to a pure synthetic or away from pure synthetic is not always a great
    idea in a high mileage motor, since I have seen changes either way causing
    gasket leaks.

    Richard.
     
    Richard, May 18, 2004
    #12
  13. SMoo

    Steve Guest

    My opinion too. IIRC, it was actually a Keith Black aluminum Hemi. Plus
    ANY street rod at a show that is NOT powered by a mouse motor gets an
    extra thumbs up from me. I've been known to vote for a T-bucket in
    slightly poorer overall condition JUST because it had a nail-head Buick
    powerplant instead of a Chevy mouse.
    And a thousand Charger owners just gritted their teeth and cursed.. :-/
     
    Steve, May 18, 2004
    #13
  14. SMoo

    SMoo Guest

    SMoo, May 18, 2004
    #14
  15. SMoo

    GAlan Guest

    I prefer customs and street rods with the same brands of engines
    they came from the factory with, But any Chevy with a non-chevy
    always gets a grin from me due to the 99.99% of Ford rods suffering
    the embarrasment of GM power under their hoods.

    One of the neatest doubletake inducing setups I've seen in a rod
    was a 302 Ford motor with custom adapters holding on CHEVY embossed
    chrome valve covers. I've also seen a Ford rod with a Chevy engine
    and phonied up FORD valve covers. (Boooo! Hisss!)

    Even better was a 30-something Chevy custom with a complete Dodge
    drivetrain and suspension transplant. :)

    But I've never, ever seen a Chevy custom or rod with Ford power,
    but a large number of all makes will have a Ford 9" rearend, or
    clone thereof.
     
    GAlan, Mar 7, 2005
    #15
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