86 Caravan Ignition Lock Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter BeeP
  • Start date Start date
B

BeeP

Help. I am replacing lock - tore out all the stuff in the steering
wheel column area, and see one retaining button on the lockset. There
must be another one, because I cannot get the unit out by pressing
only this retainer and pulling sideways on the outer silver part.
Chilton manual says push the spring-loaded retainers, like there is
more than one. But does not say where.
Any ideas? Would presume this same design is used on many K and other
models in this era.
Any help appreciated. TIA Bob
 
BeeP said:
Help. I am replacing lock - tore out all the stuff in the steering
wheel column area, and see one retaining button on the lockset. There
must be another one, because I cannot get the unit out by pressing
only this retainer and pulling sideways on the outer silver part.
Chilton manual says push the spring-loaded retainers, like there is
more than one. But does not say where.
Any ideas? Would presume this same design is used on many K and other
models in this era.
Any help appreciated. TIA Bob

Is the key in the on position?
 
No. Original reason for replacement caused by key not able to turn at
all. Second car. Used the wrong key in lock and apparently trashed
the cylinder (or tumblers or discs or whatever, locksmith wasn't sure)
Key only is in Lock position, where it can be removed but not turned
in lock. Seeking to install new lock/key combo from parts store.
Something is still holding the lock in there, when the visible button
is pushed in.
 
Spray into the lock cylinder with a general purpose lock lubricant. Then
put the correct key into the ignition and tap gently on it with a hammer
while attempting to turn it to the on position. With some force it should
eventually turn to the on position where you can depress the release and
remove the cylinder. If you want the key to match the doors, trunk, etc.
you will need to have Chrysler re-key using the VIN.

I've had this same problem with two different Chrysler vans, so know the
above procedure works. The second time I just re-lubricated the cylinder
and re-installed and it has been working fine now for over a year. I'm not
sure what causes them to bind up like this, but I think this is a relatively
common problem.

Bob
..
 
Thanks I'll give it a try and let you know.
Mine was jimmied by a different key (doh!) just one of those moments.
So I hope this works,
'nuther Bob
 
No. Original reason for replacement caused by key not able to turn at
all. Second car. Used the wrong key in lock and apparently trashed
the cylinder (or tumblers or discs or whatever, locksmith wasn't sure)
Key only is in Lock position, where it can be removed but not turned
in lock. Seeking to install new lock/key combo from parts store.
Something is still holding the lock in there, when the visible button
is pushed in.

You MUST get the cyl turned to the on position. If necessary force it,
with the key in the cyl. The pin can NOT be depressed in the lock
position. The pin MUST be depressed to remove the cyl.
 
Thanks folks for all the suggestions - I wound up drilling out the
cylinder and removing the assembly with no surrounding damage.
Replacement lock (with its own key) went in easy.
However, I encountered another problem. When everything was back into
the steering hub -- the steering shaft was about 1 to 1.25 inches too
low - somehow during the process it dropped down into the column --
too low to attach the steering wheel. It pulls up, but tension pulls
it back down. I looked on the floor and it seems like the lower shaft
moves up and down through the floor hole and bushing -- and that
didn't look right !!
Any ideas about what may have let go down there? Some kind of
retainer? T-I-A... Bob
 
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