2006 300 Front Brake Squeak

Discussion in 'Chrysler 300' started by Nick, Apr 14, 2008.

  1. Nick

    Nick Guest

    Hello,

    My friend has a 2006 300 with 26k miles. He has developed a
    squeaking noise when the front brakes are applied. I was going to
    apply some brake quiet to the back of the shims but found out that
    they are riveted to the pads.

    I think from what I remember the noise began when we had to replace
    the front rotors as they were warped. Could it be the brake material
    is reacting with the rotors causing this issue? He does a lot of heavy
    braking so if he needs to get higher quality rotors, what should he
    get?

    Thanks in advance,
    Nick
     
    Nick, Apr 14, 2008
    #1
  2. Nick

    Bob Shuman Guest

    Depending on how the vehicle was driven, what your friend may be hearing
    could simply be the front disc wear indicators signaling that you have
    reached the end of the brake pad friction material. If so, they will need
    to be replaced. If you wait too long, the rotors will need replacement too.

    An inspection should reveal the cause. Good luck.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Apr 14, 2008
    #2
  3. Nick

    Nick Guest

    I checked the pad thickness today and they were only about 1/4 used
    from what the new pads look like. He bought another set thinking that
    they were low too and when I was about to swap them out for him
    noticed that there was a lot left on the original ones.
     
    Nick, Apr 14, 2008
    #3
  4. Nick

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    There are a bunch of different chemicals to quiet different sources of
    squeaks in brakes. You might want to try CRC De-Sqeak. Also, of
    course, remember that disc brakes just plain squeak when they get
    dirty, and then stop again on their own...
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Apr 14, 2008
    #4
  5. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    Make sure the rotor shield (sheet metal behind the rotor) is not bent
    and rubbing against the rotor - that will make an intermittent squealing
    noise. I know this can happen on the LH cars - not sure about the 300.
    Usually it make the noise not just when the brakes are applied, but
    thought I'd mention it anyway - just in case...

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 14, 2008
    #5
  6. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    The wear indicators will usually make noise when brakes are off and not
    make noise when they are applied, Bob. But - yes - that should be checked.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 14, 2008
    #6
  7. Nick

    aarcuda69062 Guest

    Put a coat of brake grease or anti seize between the shims and the
    caliper on the outside and the shim and piston(s) on the inside.
    A light coat is sufficient.
    Brembo makes very good stock replacement rotors, price is in line with
    NAPA (and other) premium brands.

    The new rotors need to be cleaned very carefully, after they are
    degreased, you need to wash them with hot soapy water and wipe dry with
    paper towel until the towel doesn't pick up any more metal dust.
    This last part is very important.

    Once reassembled, bed in the new brakes as recommended by the brake pad
    manufacturer.
     
    aarcuda69062, Apr 14, 2008
    #7
  8. Nick

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    That hasn't been my experience on any vehicle I've ever owned...
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Apr 14, 2008
    #8
  9. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    OK, Joe. Maybe one of us is wrong, or maybe it varies with vehicle?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 15, 2008
    #9
  10. Nick

    Joe Pfeiffer Guest

    Those are the two (or three, depending on how you count) options.
     
    Joe Pfeiffer, Apr 15, 2008
    #10
  11. Nick

    Ron Seiden Guest

    In the old days (when you found disc brakes almost only on foreign sports
    cars) there was a lot more brake squeal. (We never did cure it on my
    friend's Fiat 124.) The back yard fix was to lightly sand the surface of the
    pads, just enough to remove any glazing they might have acquired. Then the
    leading edge of each pad was sanded to slightly bevel it, just enough to
    remove the sharp corner. It usually worked, at least for a while, and the
    best part was that the fix was free.
     
    Ron Seiden, Apr 17, 2008
    #11
  12. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    I know the pads for the LH cars have the trailing and leading edges
    totally chamfered (perhaps a lot of other cars too) - something on the
    order of, oh, 25 or 30° from parallel to the friction surface - maybe
    for that reason? Perhaps it helps shed water? Coincidentally that also
    has the effect of increasing friction surface area as the pad wears -
    maybe by 30% or more at end of life.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 17, 2008
    #12
  13. Nick

    nick Guest

    I don't know if that could be the issue. I think it could be the rotor
    with the materials of the brake pads, since this started after we
    changed the rotors from stock to aftermarket ones. I may try putting
    back his old rotors and seeing if the squeak goes away. I know that
    you should put new pads in when swapping rotors but this is a trial
    for now.
     
    nick, Apr 18, 2008
    #13
  14. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    Well - you have to *LOOK*.
    The problem usually occurs after work of that type is done - the person
    doing the work inadvertently bends the shield - that's when the noise
    starts.
    Well - it would certainly be worth *LOOKING* at the rotor shield as a
    preliminary to doing your experiment. If it is bent and rubbing the
    rotor, you could stop then rather than continuing with a possibly
    unnecessary experiment. If your engine doesn't start and you discover
    you're out of gas, do you pop the hood and start troubleshooting the
    ignition?
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 19, 2008
    #14
  15. Nick

    nick Guest

    Yes I will have a look but again if you had a bent shield wouldn't it
    make a squeal when you are driving as well and not just braking?
     
    nick, Apr 21, 2008
    #15
  16. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    Not necessarily. When the bent rotor rubbing squeal problem occurs, it
    is almost always intermittent. Often it can be turned on and off by
    turning the steering wheel to one side or the other while rolling, and -
    yes - by applying or not applying brakes. Here's why: The squeal will
    happen when the right amount of pressure is on the shield against the
    rotor - too much pressure - no squeal; too little pressure - no squeal.
    Just the right amount of pressure - squeal.

    The difference between the right amount of pressure and the wrong amount
    of pressure (to create the noise) is probably only a couple of
    thousandths of an inch of relative motion between the shield (mounted on
    the steering knuckle) and the rotor. The relative motion created by the
    stresses of turning and braking (as well as temperature changes) is more
    than enough to make the noise come and go.

    Also - generally the noise occurs at lower speeds and not higher speeds.
    That is because the rubbing has to excite the resonant frequency of
    the shield.

    My disclaimer is that I'm not saying for sure that this is your problem.
    I'm only saying that it should definitely be on the short list of
    things to consider and actually check.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 21, 2008
    #16
  17. Nick

    Greg Houston Guest

    Sigh. I've been having that brake shield squeal with the right front wheel
    recently again. I've tried to work the junk (that builds up between shield
    and disk) loose without removing the wheel, but have not been successful. I
    was going to do it when I rotate my overdue tires, but at 60,000 miles and
    ten years of age, I think I will just buy new tires instead, although there
    is still some decent tread left.

    Any suggestions for tires for my Intrepid? I'm partial to Michelin / BF
    Goodrich, mainly because Costco and BJ's have regular sales with them and
    they have an excellent reputation. The stock Goodyear Eagles have shown
    longevity though.
     
    Greg Houston, Apr 22, 2008
    #17
  18. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    What size are your wheels, Greg?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 22, 2008
    #18
  19. Nick

    Bill Putney Guest

    Oh - and what year (mainly is it 1st gen or 2nd gen)?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 22, 2008
    #19
  20. Nick

    Greg Houston Guest

    Hi Bill,

    I have a 99 Intrepid ES, with 16" wheels. Thanks!
     
    Greg Houston, Apr 22, 2008
    #20
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