2000 Concorde LXi Driver's Door Window

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by John Gregory, Apr 18, 2004.

  1. John Gregory

    John Gregory Guest

    Looking for advice on fixing my driver's side door power window. I have the
    factory manual but a few things aren't clear.



    Q1) Pg 23-44 "Front Door Trim Panel" tells me to remove the speaker flag.
    What's a "flag"?

    Q2) Same section, item 9, refers to a "trim tool". Where can I find a
    picture and can it be rented? (I assume this is a flat metal strip like a
    "slim jim" for opening car doors. but I'm not sure.



    I'm mechanically inclined, read manuals thoroughly before I start such
    projects, but have never removed a door panel. I'm not positive my problem
    is the motor but I have a hunch it is. When the panel is off, I should know
    pretty quickly by hooking up a spare battery to the window motor.



    Any advice from the experts would be appreciated. It there's a Chrysler
    mechanic out there who's had significant experience with these doors, what's
    the probability the problem is a motor as opposed to a switch? In other
    words, which has the high failure rate?
     
    John Gregory, Apr 18, 2004
    #1
  2. John Gregory

    Bill Putney Guest

    The "flag" is the little pointed bat ear looking thing at the front of
    the door at the lower corner of the window opening (just above where the
    panel ends). Depending on which audio system is in your Concorde, that
    flag could be empty, or it could have a very small speaker in it, but in
    either case it does have to be removed to get the panel off.
    Besides a bunch of screws, there are two plastic (round serrated)
    retainer clips holding the panel to the door. The trim tool is to pop
    those loose. Ideally you would use that, but it's totally
    unneccessary. With the little bit of pull force it takes to pull those
    clips from the door, no damage will be done by just pulling on the
    panel. (If you find that they don't come out with light to moderate
    force, then STOP - you probably haven't removed all of the screws.)
    Those clips are re-usable a certain number of times, but you might want
    to drop by the dealer and ask for what they call the "white" clips - two
    per door - they'll probably charge for them. Do not get the generic
    ones from the "Help" aisle of the auto parts store - they are far
    inferior (materials) to factory clips and may or may not be sized right.

    Also, you may find that the 3 screw holes in the panel along the bottom
    edge are cracked and broken out - if not already, chances are about 95%
    that they will be eventually. Chrysler sells some clips (kind of
    special purpose rectangular fender washers, factory-painted to match
    your interior) to cover the cracks and hold the panel in place. If you
    need part numbers, let me know - we've found on the forums that the
    Chrysler dealer parts people don't know about these clips or pretend not
    to be able to find the part numbers to order them even though all the
    info. is in a Chrysler TSB. Even if your panels (drivers and passenger)
    aren't cracked yet, I highly advise that you put these clips on as a
    preventative (i.e., once they crack, if left for a long time, they get
    so broken out that the clips might not even work - the clips would
    prevent the cracking in the first place).
    I happen to have a spare motor/regulator on my shelf - from a salvage
    door when I had to replace my Concorde's driver's door due to an
    accident. I tested the motor and it is good. Let me know if
    interested.
    Judging from the 300M ezBoard and www.dodgeintrepid.net forums, both can
    be problematic, but the motor is far more likely. They have replaced a
    lot of them under warranty - is that a possibility for you? BTW - I
    also have the 5-switch panel from the salvage door too, but you might
    prefer to get that from the dealer - they aren't that expensive.

    BTW - come on over to the 300M and/or dodgeintrepid.net forums. There
    are no good Concorde-only forums that I have been able to find, but
    those two groups welcome us - same cars mechanically and electrically,
    so the advice is transferrable.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 18, 2004
    #2
  3. John Gregory

    Art Guest

    Even dealers seem to have trouble getting the panels back on flush and
    tight. My guess is that when they pull the panels instead of using the trim
    tool to remove the clips, something gets distorted. I suggested to my
    dealer last time that he looks carefully where the clips attach to see if
    they need to be pushed in a bit. Magically the door panels were on tight
    that time but I don't know if it was cause and effect or just luck.

    Also, the motors and regulators went bad in some of those cars so consider
    replacing both. Replacing the weather stripping might be a good idea too if
    it sometimes gets glued to the glass inhot weather.
     
    Art, Apr 18, 2004
    #3
  4. John Gregory

    Bill Putney Guest

    Possibly your clips just needed replacing so they would push in and hold
    tight, and they replaced them when you said something (or they just made
    an effrot to push them in tighter). I think Chrysler says they are good
    for 3 remove/re-insert cycles, but I don't think it's that exact - fact
    is they get a little more ragged and less firm each time they are pulled
    out.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Apr 18, 2004
    #4
  5. John Gregory

    mic canic Guest

    bill just so you know the tsb's fromn d.c are not supplied to the parts dept.'s
    in the dealer network so if the tech needs the part number he has to look it up on
    the tsb then give it to parts the more common ones are remembered by parts
     
    mic canic, Apr 18, 2004
    #5
  6. John Gregory

    mic canic Guest

    remove the speaker grill to remove 3 screws which are hidden behind that
    alot of times once the panel is off you can push the window down a hair and it
    starts working the glass gets jambed in the glass run seal there will be a black
    line about 1/2 inch down from the top of the glass if thats the case
     
    mic canic, Apr 18, 2004
    #6
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