2.7 dodge intrepid engine...what’s going on with them? (AutoF)

Just wondering if there is anyone else having a problem with the 2.7
engines in the dodge intrepids? Mine is a 2000 and only havs 46,000
miles on it and having major problems with engine...the dealer ship
where i bought it is telling me it will cost $6,200 for a
remanufactured one...this sounds way to much to me. Any reply would
help!

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You can find salvage engines for around a grand. Some people advise
upgrading ot the 3.2 - cheaper and more power (combined with the lower
2.7 gearing).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

What happened to the 7/70 powertrain warrenty?????

 

Live near Indianapolis ?? Hill's garage will do it for about 4500, includes
fluids and all...

There is also a guy advertising on the web @
http://www.2-7-fix.com/index2.html does the 2.7 to 3.2 swap,, I think
it is about 3000 but you will have to get in touch with him of course..

Ted

 

What "major problems?" Yes, $6,200 sounds high. I'd try another dealer.


Matt

 

It's the alleged major sludging and self-destruction that has been
mentioned quite frequently on this ng. Good used 2.7 engines are scarce
due to the failures, so the supply of both used ones and rebuilts is
outstrippped by demand driving prices up. But I have seen posts
elsewhere by people reporting finding decent used ones in junk yards for
around $1000.

As has been posted earlier, upgrading to the 3.2 is probably the smarter
option.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

And changing the oil a bit oftener than recommended apparently
elliminates the problem. Change every 3000 miles or 4 times a year
minimum.

 

Are you sure of that? What I mean by that is that it might be true, and
certainly changing more frequently is better than changing less
frequently, but I can't find enough solid information anywhere to say
conclusively that 3000 mile changes will guarantee no sludging in that
engine.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Bill ~ I am fast approaching senior citizendome. I tell you this to qualify
me as someone who has owned many, many cars/trucks and driven them a
gazillion miles. Further, I just retired after 30 years of managing 100+
vehicle fleets of midsized truck engines. Since day one, I change the oil
and oil filter every 3,000 miles and never, ever had a sludging problem on
any of the vehicles I've owned or managed. I have purchased used vehicles
that did, indeed have the problem. After I cleaned them out and began
regular oil & filter changes, problem gone. I live in the Chicago area so
the engines get a combo of deep inner city stop and go driving, plus highway
miles whilst commuting between major midwest cities. Hope this helps. I
really, truly believe a regular and consistent 3,000 mile oil/filter change
is dirt cheap insurance.

Rich

 

I suspect you are probably right. All I'm saying is that I've seen
posts here and elsewhere in which the poster insisted that they had
regular oil changes done (in some cases even at the dealer) - with
receipts to prove it, and the dealer and DC refused to cover the repairs
when the engine sludged up and failed. Obviously anything I've read by
those unfortunate owners or that you or I post is anecdotal and so has
to be taken with a grain of salt. I've also considered the possibility
that dealers were routinely documenting that the oil was changed when it
really was not, thinking that it wouldn't make any difference ("If the
customer doesn't know about it, what harm is there"). I've witnessed
that happening first-hand - like when my elderly mother took her brand
new Concorde in for its very first oil and filter change, which she paid
for, and when she got it back, the factory filter (with the stamp saying
it was the orignal factory filter) was still on it, and the original oil
still in the crankcase. My point is that without better documentation
of the problem, there are just too many variables and possibillities to
make any definite conclusions.

BTW, some late model Honda and Toyota engines have had similar
problems. Could be due to some common design experiments, or the
problems just get publicized more on certain engines that may in fact
not be any or much worse than any other engine in this regard. My gut
feel is that certain engines are definitely more prone to sludging than
others and are more sensitive to marginal maintenance than others. And
of course driving conditions do have a bearing as you pointed out.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

A local dealer has recommended the old 3 month 5000KM oil change
interval for years, and of the customers who have followed it
religiously, he claims they have not had a single failure.
Those following the book have been an "unmitigated disaster".
THey have had good luck with an aggressive flush and an additive
package on engines that have been "neglected" but have not yet failed.
Lucas oil treatment after the flush is the recommendation. Bardahl 2
seams to work too, apparently. Most likely there are a dozen or more
"stabilizers" that would work.

Easiest and safest by far, though is regular oil changes, more often
than you would expect to be necessary.

 

And don't forget the filter too. I've done my own oil changes for years and
experimented with a wide variety of filters. My experience is that there's
2 quality levels of filters on the market, the regular grade and the premium
grade. The regular grade are like the Purolator Plus, the premiums are like
the Purolator Premium Plus. The premiums cost about double the price of
the regulars, they weigh more, and I presume have more filtering material
in them, and there is DEFINITELY a difference in the clarity and
quality of oil in the crankcase when it comes to change time between the two
types.

Ted

 

And think that supports both of our claims: (1) More freequent oil
changes are important, and (2) This engine is far more susceptible to
sludging up than most - i.e., for most engines, 7000 mile oil changes
would not cause catasrophic failures by 80k miles as it appraently does
in these engines.

Normally I'm not in favor of additives, but in this case, I agree with
additives. Personally, I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase of my
2.7L with every oil change (and change filter every oil change at 3000
to 3500 miles). Sea Foam is a similar product that apparently works.
My 80 mile/day commute probably is just as important in preventing the
sludge too. Currently has 120k on the ticker and running great.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Generally one step up from the baseline model is the sweet spot IMO.
This gives you the Purolator Pure One™ for like $1 more than the
baseline Purolator. With that you get the better filtering media and
the silicone (vs. nitrile) anti-drainback valve. You go any higher in
any given mfgr's line, and you start getting into the no-value-added
gimmicky stuff (like a mass of Teflon™ particles that get released into
the oil) for which you pay thru the nose ($8 instead of $3-5).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

How can you tell? Have you had it analyzed?


Matt

 

Clarity is in the eye of the beholder.

 

What about quality? You can tell almost nothing about the condition of
oil visually.


Matt

 

Oh Yes!
There is a problem with the 2.7 engine. We have 58,000 on our 2000 Intrepid
and it now sits at the dealer with dead motor. We do have 7/70000 warranty
that should cover it. The engine can not circulate the oil properly and
cooks it to nice thick sludge. Synthetic oil is the only choice for this
engine since it can take the heat.
Check out this link.

http://www.anyboard.net/autos/cars/cars/gindex.html

http://www.AutoForumz.com/modules.php?name=Private_Messages&file=index&mode=post&u=72654

 

I wouldn't say it's the *only* choice, but probably a good one.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

I didn't say that accurately: I meant to say "I wouldn't say it's the
only good choice, but certainly one of them".

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")