1999 Chrysler Concorde LXI Window / Door Handle / Speaker / Door

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by vegascyclist, May 2, 2006.

  1. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest


    I was able to use a knife and some Goof Off to get all of the old
    adhesive. One local Chrysler dealer told me they buy a product called
    Window Weld from the local Carquest parts store. Another Chrysler
    dealer told me they sell new windows to people when they have the
    problem. A third Chrysler dealer told me they use an epoxy that come
    in a blue and white package that they buy from Home Depot. Autozone
    recommended an epoxy too. Pep Boys said they would use a silicone
    product but the guy couldn't give me the name of the product they use.
    vegascyclist, Jun 3, 2006
  2. vegascyclist

    maxpower Guest

    maxpower, Jun 3, 2006
  3. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    maxpower wrote:

    Or use the same hair blower to heat up the glass and glue, and scrape
    with a razor blade as Glenn said, then clean all remianing residue off
    by rubbing with paint thinner and finishing up with rubbing alcohol.
    Wouldn't hurt to rub fine sandpaper across the area of glass that the
    clip attaches to and, again, finish up with rubbing alcohol. Some
    people have had good success using J-B Weld™ epoxy - the down side of
    that is that if the clip ever breaks again, you won't be able to remove
    it from the glass - but it appears that the problems with the clips were
    early production issues - i.e., clips that you would buy now to replace
    them are not going to break.

    The TSB (No. 23-039-00) that addresses this problem calls for a 3M
    windshield adhesive, but it requires several additional chemical
    products (not mentioned in the TSB) in addition to the adhesive itself
    to prime and prep the glass for best adhesion. Below my signature is
    info. pasted from a post I did on the 300M Club forums containing a list
    of the materials needed for that - all chemcials can be ordered thru NAPA.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')

    1. The clips - Chrylser P/N 04878907AA

    2. The 3M adhesive - 3M P/N 051135-08609 (I think the last 5 digits are
    all you really need). BTW - I bought a tube of that at Advance Auto
    Parts before I discovered NAPA could order it - they (Advance) didn't
    stock or even list the primers in their computer system - but you can
    order it from NAPA with all the rest of the 3M stuff. It's a 10.5 oz.
    cartridge - you chuck it into a regular old hardware variety caulk gun
    even though this tube is made of metal. BTW - you might ask NAPA if they
    list it in smaller containers - it's much more than you need - they sell
    this to glass shops for putting in entire windshields. *IF* they have it
    in a smaller container it may save you a coupla bucks - IIRC, they
    listed it as available in one-time use rip-open sealed packets. You
    won't need much to glue the clips on. Probably get two packets to be
    safe. Most likely, 3M makes the packets for exactly this purpose (or
    perhaps for attaching rear view mirrors).

    3. 3M Glass Cleaner (aerosol can) - 3M P/N 051135-08888 - probably any
    decent glass cleaner would do, but it's cheap enough, and you don't want
    to risk having to do this job over again - this does seem to be really
    good stuff.

    4. 3M Primer/Degreaser - 3M P/N 051135-08683 (30mL container - order
    thru NAPA - if the counter guy says he can't find it listed, get another
    counter guy - the manager if necessary).

    5. 3M Black Primer (or "Imprimador de Urethano Negro" - the bottle I got
    is printed completely in Spanish) - 3M P/N 051135-08684 (30mL container
    - order from NAPA - see item 4., above).

    Instructions come with the Chrylser clips. The hair dryer to heat up and
    soften the adhesive to get the old clips off is important to avoid
    breaking the galss. Use a new razor blade (label scraper) as the last
    step before glass cleaner and primer to make sure every trace of old
    adhesive is removed. Use the two primers and the adhesive per the
    instructions on the 3M containers.
    Bill Putney, Jun 3, 2006
  4. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    That is always an option - depends on if you have more time (for
    replacing the clip yourself) or money (to buy the new window). If
    you're paying the dealer to do one or the other, by the time they add on
    their labor to replace the clip, you might just as well have them put in
    a new window (comes with new clips attached) instead.

    Some people are tempted to buy a junk yard window - but I guarantee that
    the clip will already be in the process of breaking. See this thread on
    the 300M Club forums - scroll down to my post with the photos to see
    what I'm talking about:

    I only recommend a junk yard window to reduce vehicle down time - i.e.,
    replace the clips on the junk yard window as you have the time, then
    make quick work of swapping out the window.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Jun 3, 2006
  5. vegascyclist

    maxpower Guest


    there. Now the question is how do I get the adhesive off. What adhesive do I
    use to attach the new clip?
    The customers that had Max care Chrysler service contracts were able to get
    the complete glass. I took the old glass, removed the clips and kept a few
    in a locker at work until I needed to replace one. I have always used the
    black gasket sealer that Chrysler sells and never had a problem, im sure
    there are all types of glue that will work.
    Me personally I believe that the problem is due to not having much of an
    upstop for this vehicle when the windows are forced up and the plates simply
    snap as they twist back and fourth.

    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
    maxpower, Jun 3, 2006
  6. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    I think you are correct. To extend that further, that whole concept (no
    upstop - the window stops by stalling the motor) could explain the poor
    history of the LH car window assemblies: By trying to oversimplifying
    (cheapen) the design to eliminate a limit switch, from an engineering
    standpoint, too much compromise was required.
    (1) To keep the clips cheap and light so they didn't break, the motors
    would have to be very limited in power.
    (2) By limiting the power in the motor, you ended up with motors that
    were marginal against tolerance stackups (friction, or "stiction") in
    the window assembly, i.e., many people had problems with windows
    sticking in the up position, and *way* too many motors had to be
    replaced (by DC in warranty, and by the owner post-warranty).

    The result was a plethora of window problems in general (clips breaking
    right and left, and motors that had to be replaced right and left). So
    simplifying (cheapening) the overall design, did they save money
    (warranty claims, pissed off customers, lost future sales)? You do the
    math. MBA's doing what they do best.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Jun 4, 2006
  7. vegascyclist

    maxpower Guest

    an upstop for this vehicle when the windows are forced up and the plates
    simply snap as they twist back and fourth.
    All they would need to do is design it the way the convertibles are, A catch
    on the lift plate stops the window at a certain height which is adjustable
    maxpower, Jun 4, 2006
  8. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    Yes - that's that *limit switch* I mentioned above. But they eliminated
    that and "saved money". In their defense, any time you can eliminate
    something that needs to be manually adjusted and therefore design out a
    manual operation and the potential for human error (the Japanese call
    this "poka-yoke"), you've statistically improved the design and your
    "quality" - on paper anyway. This is a perfect example of how "modern"
    quality concepts can be mis-applied - blindly applying a principal
    without looking at all the consequences/effects. Overall it was a
    disaster. Was quality really improved? Did it lower overall costs?
    Was "customer satisfaction" improved?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
    Bill Putney, Jun 4, 2006
  9. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest


    Can I replace the handle with the panel on the door or should I panel

    Thanks for all of your help.

    vegascyclist, Jun 7, 2006
  10. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    Any other suggestions on where to order the part?

    The local Chrysler dealers want from $94.95 - $125.29 for the part.
    Chryslerpartsdirect.com is better at $77.86 (online) or on phone $79.02
    + ~$8 for shipping

    vegascyclist, Jun 7, 2006
  11. vegascyclist

    maxpower Guest


    The panel has to be removed

    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
    maxpower, Jun 7, 2006
  12. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    It makes sense that you would have to remove the panel otherwise house
    would you attach it to the panel. Sorry for the brain freeze.
    vegascyclist, Jun 9, 2006
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