1994 Chrysler LeBaron Check Engine Light

I drive a 1994 Chrysler LeBaron 3.0L V6 with around 155,000 miles.
Occasionally, whenever I'm driving on the highway the Check Engine light
comes on. The first time this happened, I immediately pulled over and turned
off the car, checked under the hood, checked the gauges, etc.--nothing was
out of the ordinary. So I got back in the car, started it up and the light
didn't come on again that day.

Since then, the light has come on several times and here's what I've been
able to determine:

1. It only seems to come on whenever I am driving on the highway; it has
never come on during in-town driving.
2. It doesn't happen EVERY time I drive on the highway. With my new job, I
drive about 20 miles on the highway one way to work; I've had my new job for
about 2 months now and today was the first time the light came on.
3. If I turn off the car and then turn it back on, the light goes out and
stays out.

My question for this group is, Should I be concerned about this? A local
auto parts company has the reader that I can rent to read the codes, but my
understanding was that the check engine light has to be on for it to read the
codes.

Like I said, I just want to know if I need to worry about this or not. Since
I don't know what causes it to come on, other than chance and driving on the
highway, I don't feel like I can take it to a mechanic.

Thanks for any information you can provide.

 

Hi...

Not a mechanic, but you needn't rent a code reader, you might
want to try the key on key off sequence to read any stored codes...

Car parked. Turn the key on (not start, just to the on position),
then quickly off, then on again, then off, finally on again and
wait. Watch the check engine light, it will begin to slowly flash
two digit codes.

Kinda like this:

on off long pause on off on off long pause would mean 1 followed by
2 = 12 (start of the read sequence)

If you'll write down what it flashes, someone here will happily
tell you what the code represents.

Take care.

Ken

 

Ken,

I did what you suggested and here are the check engine light flashed as
follows:

1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 5 - 5

Thanks for the quick response and any information you can provide!

Tracey

 

Code 12: Battery disconnected within last ## key-on cycles / Start of codes
- Nothing to worry about, normal

Code 32: EGR Solenoid Circuit - 1) An open or shorted condition detected in
the EGR transducer solenoid circuit.
- Not really a good thing...

Code 55: End of fault codes.
- Normal

 

What exactly is the EGR transducer solenoid circuit? How important is it?

 

Hi Tracey...

12 is simply the start of the sequence, and 55 is the end, means nothing.

Leaves you with 32, which indicates an EGR system failure...

"Required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic
test"

Once again, not a mechanic, just an old retired electrical guy
who loves cars, so hopefully the mechanics here will guide you
further. Meanwhile, check the hoses for leaks, cracks, too
hard to make a good seal. Check the electrical connector for
proper solid connection.

Good luck, and take care.

Ken

 

replace the EGR valve with a MOPAR part, it comes complete with transducer
and all

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

Glenn,

Is it necessary? What happens if I don't replace it? I found that it costs
around $3, but I have a history of causing more problems whenever I try to
work on my cars...

Thanks for your assistance!

 

$3 dollars, I don't think so!!! An EGR valve for that vehicle may be around
$100.00 with about an hour labor to install it.
If the valve goes bad and sticks open you could have stalling problem or
hard start problem. If it doesn't open you may get a pinging problem at
highway or accel speeds, Not to mention the emissions that your tailpipe is
putting out. If the state you live in has an Emissions test program you may
fail NOX emissions.

Glenn

 

A wasn't saying it was $3, I was disagreeing. Purchase the part from
Chrysler, the valve and transducer as a complete part!!

Glenn

 

Glenn,

You're right: The EGR solenoid is around $3; the EGR valve is $60. Is it
difficult to replace?

 

Glenn and others,

Thanks for all your (prompt) assistance! I really appreciate it!!!

Sincerely,

Tracey Gray

 

Tracey,


Don't be surprised when you purchase the new EGR and it keeps doing it.

I have 2 vans, a 1994 T&C and a 1995 T&C and both of them have exactly
the same symptoms. I've replaced the EGR valve a couple of times in the
1995,
both with new parts and known used good parts, taken the EGR valves apart
several times, everything is good. Both vans pass emissions perfectly, both
on the static text (which they are now doing ) and on the older dyno tests
(which they used to do) And when I bought the 1995 it did NOT pass
NoX emissions because the EGR valve in it had a old, cracked diaphram,
so I know that the emissions testing facility was doing the testing right,
because
after I bought it I got it tested in the morning whereupon it failed,
replaced the
valve at lunchtime, and got it tested in the afternoon whereupon it passed.
Then a week later it did the CEL light at high highway speeds and I took it
back to the testing center, all prepared to rip a new asshole in the parts
dealer for selling me a defective EGR valve - and it still passed.

If you dig into the service manual you will eventually find that the
engine
computer occassionally actuates the selonoid (only while at cruising speed)
and then decides if the exhaust stream composition has changed rapidly
enough to indicate that the valve is working. My $0.02 is that the engine
software programmer made a mistake and set the wait period before detection
for the composition change to be too short. With new engines that have
tight exhausts, and no carbon buildup in the EGR tube from the exhaust to
the valve, it's barely enough time, but it works. With the older higher
mileage
engines that have minor exhaust leaks, and more carbon buildup in the EGR
passages I believe the slew from actuating the valve does not produce as
high a
composition change, as quickly, and the engine computer decides it faulty
when it's really not.

If I were you I would not spend a dime on the EGR valve unless I had got
it emissions tested and it failed NoX. I would suggest that you take it in
to be emissions tested, and if it passes, then leave it alone. If you
absolutely
must change the valve, be aware that this is one of the FEW parts that is
cheaper from the dealer than from the aftermarket - and in taking apart
the dealer valves and comparing them to the aftermarket valves, every last
thing is absolutely identical including the casting marks and casting run
numbers. I believe that the same company makes the EGR valve for both the
aftermarket and the dealer.

Ted

 

Ted,

Thank you for your $0.02. Fortunately, my state doesn't require emissions
test, so I'll just keep ignoring it. I just wanted to make sure that I
wasn't hurting my car and I feel confident now that I am not.

Thanks again!

Tracey

 

Because no one as yet has explained that piston damage occurs
when an engine is detonating due to lack of EGR and that piston
damaging detonation often occurs long before the driver can
actually hear it.

 

I don't want to hurt my car, but I don't want to waste money and time either.
The CE light doesn't come on very often -- probably once every 3 months or so.
I am assuming that whenever this occurs it is because the EGR is failing at
that point only.

Am I incorrect is assuming that this represents a miniscule chance of piston
damage due to lack fo EGR?

 

Wrong assumption.

The light comes on when the EGR *monitor* fails, that is not to
be confused with the actual EGR operation.
IOWs, the EGR monitor doesn't run as often as the EGR would
normally be operating.

The EGR is there for a purpose, not all of which have to do with
NOx emissions.

 

I won't say "I understand" because I don't really. I'd rather go the easier
route (not replace it), but I see your point.

Thanks for your input.

 

Does the word detonation ring a bell Ted? Another thing is some aftermarket
will sell just the EGR valve and not the Transducer with it. replace the
valve install the old transducer and look, the check engine lite is still
on.. You have taken the EGR valve apart??? Lost me on this one.

Glenn

 

Absolutely!!!