1993 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3 - Stalls when hot

Hi all,

I am updating a post from August 9th:

The answer to this problem turned out to be CRANK SENSOR, apparently, though
why this sensor is so affected by temperature I'm not sure.
Most of the conversation is pasted below, apologies to those whose names are
omitted, and thanks to all who replied:

I have a 1993 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L.

This Problem is tricky.

The problem is that the vehicle stalls after running for several minutes at

normal operating temperature, and won't restart until cool. If you start it

completely cold, it runs great, and will consistently run about 15 minutes

before dying.

The engine turns but doesn't start once it is hot, as it cools, you start to

get sputters until it is cool enough to run, but it won't run long if it is

not cooled down a lot.

There is good spark when it is stalled.

Fuel Pressure is consistent and ample (48 psi)

Starter fluid fires it right up, but then it dies when the fluid is burnt

away.

Computer reports no error.

This problem is consistent.

It is not OVERheating when it stalls.

I AM STUMPED. I guess I can try some sensors snd relays, but I would like

to try the most likely ones first.

THANKS for any ideas....

crank, cam or map sensor. Another item would be the egr valve. Have it
message


off ; one for the engine controller, another for the gauge. I believe that
the resistance is 10k ohms at 25degC ; 800 ohms at operating temp. However,
i 'd suspect the fuel tank cap first. André


rule out a poor connection (corrosion, or incomplete mating) of a connector.


sensor. Does not cause a code, just stalled a hell of a lot when warmed up.
Work's fine for the first couple of miles till reaches operating temp then
dies!


the engine's operating temperature. There is also only one coolant
temperature *sender*. It talks to the dashboard gauge and tells it whether
to lean towards "C" or towards "H" or to stand right in the middle.


sensors - the easy way. Have you checked the fuel filler cap ? Not sure? Try
running the car with the cap not fully tightened. Techtalk hereafter is
extracted from my Alldata CDROM, 100% applicable to my car. It will include
some background info, to prevent you being ripped-off. I have a 3.3L 1993
Voyager, and it has definitely two different temp sensors. One is near the
thermostat, has 2 wires, TN/BK(=sense) and BK/LB(=5V), connected to the PCM.
The other one is bolted in the front cylinder head, has one wire, VT/YL,
connected to the Body Controller, driving the temp gauge. Your PCM temp
sensor and wiriig is probably OK, as the fan will run with open sensor. Your
car has no distributor, and the ignition timing is driven by the CAM sensor.
Hence, your CAM sensor is probably also OK, as the engine will not run with
a faulty CAM sensor (no TDC passed to the PCM) Now, to the point: The PCM
temp receiver circuit (inside the PCM) has two ranges, low and high temp.
Range switching occurs around 125°F. Your problem could be related to a
faulty PCM upper temp range. As it is so expensive to replace a PCM, it is
worth to check this: Check the voltage at the PCM temp sensor, TN/BK wire,
and search for the range switching. During warm-up, the voltage will
increase slowly from about 2-3V up to nearly 5V You will find the range
switching as a sudden voltage drop, of a few volts. Anyway, for either a
cold or hot engine, the sense voltage should be above 1-2V and below 5V.
André

 

Hi,
I came across this exchange on the forum after googling in search of
answers to exactly the same kind of problem as yours. I drive my 1993
Chrysler Voyager 3.3. every day across the French-Swiss border to
work. Since a few weeks, I have been experiencing the same problem as
the one you describe (note the coincidence of car type and year) and
did not manage to solve it satisfactorily so far, despite lengthy
visits to both Swiss and French Chrysler repair shops. The first
repair done was just a “good” cleaning of the injection chamber (?),
to no avail. Then came the replacement of the gas pump. As there was
no real improvement, they kept the car for a good while in the hope
that the computer would at least show some failure somewhere, but no.
After neutralizing a loose cruise control cable under the hood and
replacing the top dead center sensor (?), it seemed the problem had
finally been solved, but it has started again. I have seen what was
said here about the coolant temp sensor, and now the crank sensor, so
I will see if these clues can be useful to the repair shop. Hope it
works this time. I’d be grateful for any supplementary info, but
please in plain language as I am not too versed in mechanics. Thanks
beforehand.
Pierre in Geneva