'02 Sebring Convertible Limited - Heater blows cool at idle

Discussion in 'Sebring' started by Yves M., Jan 3, 2005.

  1. Yves M.

    Yves M. Guest

    I have a 2002 Sebring Convertible Limited. I have noticed this winter that
    when I sit at a red light the temparature of air coming out of the heater
    drops considerable (when set at the warmest setting) when the car idles - it
    comes out pretty much cool after a bit. Also, when I start it in the
    morning to let it warm up, the engine may warm up, but the heater never
    starts blowing warm air until I rev the RPMs or start driving...

    My '96 never did this.... did they change something in the '02 or is there
    something wrong?

    Thanks for any info!
    Yves M., Jan 3, 2005
  2. Something's wrong. Probably air trapped in your heater core and/or upper
    regions of your cooling system, but could be another fault (heater hoses
    improperly routed/connected, blockage in system, etc.)

    Daniel J. Stern, Jan 3, 2005
  3. Yves M.

    maxpower Guest

    Before you check for trapped air or misrouted heater hoses, check to see if
    the system is full, if you are low on coolant, this is what the results
    would be, no heat at idle...and you have to make sure the overflow bottle is
    maxpower, Jan 3, 2005
  4. Yves M.

    Yves M. Guest

    ah, you're both right... I checked the coolant and it was a tad below min
    when the engine was cold. Should have kept a better eye on that...

    No the bad part - the car has the 2.7L engine that requires a "complex"
    bleeding to fill the system, not like the older cars I'm used to where you
    just top the reservoir...

    Now the even worse part... the bleeder valve is stuck. The base turns with
    it in the plastic casing... dealer tells me that the hole part ("water
    outlet connector") has to be replaced at a cost of ~$100 for the part and
    ~$150 for labor... ARGH.

    Has anyone experience with replacing these? Maxpower, I know you posted a
    service bulletin in this group about the bleed procedure a ehile ago which I
    found interesting, but I could not find anything about the actual part
    replacement procedure anywhere. I got quite a few "ah, we replace a lot of
    these" type responses from different people - even the guy at AutoZone
    (which of course do not have the part) was well aware of the "issue" with
    that part.

    Yves M., Jan 14, 2005
  5. if the valve is not leaking, dont replace it. just add to the bottle, using
    the proper coolant and sterile water, you dont have to open the bleeder
    screw, add to the full mark while it is runnjing, close the cap untill the
    level stabilizes, at idle just raise it to about 1500 to get it circulated
    in the system

    glenn beasley, Jan 14, 2005
  6. Yves M.

    Yves M. Guest

    The owners manual warns like all over not to just fill - I guess though that
    since it's only low and not being flushed / refilled, I might be OK? There
    are no leaks that I have found so far... Maybe I'll just try it... a gallon
    of Mopar anti-freeze and sterile water are $20 vs $250 for the repair...
    probably worth the try when you put it that way...
    Yves M., Jan 14, 2005
  7. Yves M.

    M. Meyer Jr. Guest

    Before you let the dealer install the water outlet..... This is a very easy
    fix for you to do since the Intake manifold and water outlet both have
    silicone gaskets.. The Intake manifold has I think (8) 10 or 8 mm screws,
    and there are 4 for the W.O. dont take the manifold completely off just
    loosen the screws.. and loosen the "Y" bracket on the Throttle Body. (after
    removing air cleaner duct)After doing so lift up the Manifold on the Water
    Outlet end and insert a socket with an extension..loosen the screws...
    (after removing the hoses) and install the new part....reverse order to
    assemble... run, open bleeder and add coolant.... should not have lost that
    much.. make sure all air is completely gone out of system, then close the
    bleeder. Should only take about 20 minutes.. I have changed them out in
    about 10..
    M. Meyer Jr., Jan 17, 2005
  8. Yves M.

    Yves M. Guest

    Wow - thank you - I have decided to wait - I added coolant without bleeding
    and things seem to work just fine now. Once the weather is not so grueling
    cold anymore, I may attempt it as it does sound easy and because it uses
    silicone gaskets - I was afraid of what I would find if I were to remove the
    intake manifolds.... Thanks!

    Yves M., Jan 21, 2005
  9. Yves M.

    Bill G Guest

    I have a 2000 that had the same problem. In the morning when the engine was
    cold I removed the radiator cap and added about a quart and a half of
    coolant. That did the job. When the engine is low on coolant the high
    point of the system, the heater core, is starved.
    Bill G, Mar 12, 2005
  10. I haed the same problem on my 2001. Turned out that the radiator cape
    was not holding pressure so that was where the leak was occuring.
    Art McClinton, Mar 13, 2005
  11. Yves M.

    SDG Guest

    This is slightly unrelated, but it may be of limited interest. I fould tthat
    Wal Mart (probably others as well) carries a 50-50 mixture of coolant and
    water (premix) perfect for topping off a cooling system (no need to measure
    in a bucket, just pour in).
    SDG, Jul 21, 2005
  12. Yves M.


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