'02 Sebring Convertible Limited - Heater blows cool at idle

I have a 2002 Sebring Convertible Limited. I have noticed this winter that
when I sit at a red light the temparature of air coming out of the heater
drops considerable (when set at the warmest setting) when the car idles - it
comes out pretty much cool after a bit. Also, when I start it in the
morning to let it warm up, the engine may warm up, but the heater never
starts blowing warm air until I rev the RPMs or start driving...

My '96 never did this.... did they change something in the '02 or is there
something wrong?

Thanks for any info!
Yves

 

Something's wrong. Probably air trapped in your heater core and/or upper
regions of your cooling system, but could be another fault (heater hoses
improperly routed/connected, blockage in system, etc.)

DS

 

Before you check for trapped air or misrouted heater hoses, check to see if
the system is full, if you are low on coolant, this is what the results
would be, no heat at idle...and you have to make sure the overflow bottle is
full

 

ah, you're both right... I checked the coolant and it was a tad below min
when the engine was cold. Should have kept a better eye on that...

No the bad part - the car has the 2.7L engine that requires a "complex"
bleeding to fill the system, not like the older cars I'm used to where you
just top the reservoir...

Now the even worse part... the bleeder valve is stuck. The base turns with
it in the plastic casing... dealer tells me that the hole part ("water
outlet connector") has to be replaced at a cost of ~$100 for the part and
~$150 for labor... ARGH.

Has anyone experience with replacing these? Maxpower, I know you posted a
service bulletin in this group about the bleed procedure a ehile ago which I
found interesting, but I could not find anything about the actual part
replacement procedure anywhere. I got quite a few "ah, we replace a lot of
these" type responses from different people - even the guy at AutoZone
(which of course do not have the part) was well aware of the "issue" with
that part.

Thanks!
Yves

 

if the valve is not leaking, dont replace it. just add to the bottle, using
the proper coolant and sterile water, you dont have to open the bleeder
screw, add to the full mark while it is runnjing, close the cap untill the
level stabilizes, at idle just raise it to about 1500 to get it circulated
in the system

maxpower

 

The owners manual warns like all over not to just fill - I guess though that
since it's only low and not being flushed / refilled, I might be OK? There
are no leaks that I have found so far... Maybe I'll just try it... a gallon
of Mopar anti-freeze and sterile water are $20 vs $250 for the repair...
probably worth the try when you put it that way...
Thx!
Yves

 

Before you let the dealer install the water outlet..... This is a very easy
fix for you to do since the Intake manifold and water outlet both have
silicone gaskets.. The Intake manifold has I think (8) 10 or 8 mm screws,
and there are 4 for the W.O. dont take the manifold completely off just
loosen the screws.. and loosen the "Y" bracket on the Throttle Body. (after
removing air cleaner duct)After doing so lift up the Manifold on the Water
Outlet end and insert a socket with an extension..loosen the screws...
(after removing the hoses) and install the new part....reverse order to
assemble... run, open bleeder and add coolant.... should not have lost that
much.. make sure all air is completely gone out of system, then close the
bleeder. Should only take about 20 minutes.. I have changed them out in
about 10..
GOOD LUCK!

 

Wow - thank you - I have decided to wait - I added coolant without bleeding
and things seem to work just fine now. Once the weather is not so grueling
cold anymore, I may attempt it as it does sound easy and because it uses
silicone gaskets - I was afraid of what I would find if I were to remove the
intake manifolds.... Thanks!

Yves

 

I have a 2000 that had the same problem. In the morning when the engine was
cold I removed the radiator cap and added about a quart and a half of
coolant. That did the job. When the engine is low on coolant the high
point of the system, the heater core, is starved.
-Bill
------------------------------

 

I haed the same problem on my 2001. Turned out that the radiator cape
was not holding pressure so that was where the leak was occuring.

 

This is slightly unrelated, but it may be of limited interest. I fould tthat
Wal Mart (probably others as well) carries a 50-50 mixture of coolant and
water (premix) perfect for topping off a cooling system (no need to measure
in a bucket, just pour in).

 

I appreciate that this an old post but having seem horror messages about the plastic manifold I have invested in a beautiful looking aluminium one for the day when I need one.
I found it on Ebay here
Engine Water Outlet Housing Temperature Sensor Chrysler Sebring Dodge Stratus

Price: US $35.67
I hope this might be useful.