HELP! 89 Lebaron Wont Start

Discussion in 'LeBaron' started by creepycarrie, Dec 5, 2005.

  1. creepycarrie

    creepycarrie Guest

    Hello. I have a 1989 Chrysler Lebaron 2.4 ltr. It will not start. A few
    months ago it started idling high at 2.5 rpm, going up to a maximum of 3
    rpm at about 100 km/hr. I drove it like this anyway, since adding some
    fuel injector cleaner seemed to bring the idle down a bit, (to 2 rpm), and
    the car still worked, up until now.

    I did check the trouble codes using the key sequence and got the following
    error codes (in this order):
    12, 44, 37, 25 ..............After looking up the codes I find they are
    listed as the following:

    12: battery recently disconnected (not important)
    44: No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
    OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
    OR 44 Battery temperature out of range
    37 part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
    25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle
    not reached, vacuum leak found .
    Now the car will not start. The only thing I noticed different is that a
    day prior to this the idle was chugging a little bit, going below 1 rpm
    and then fluctuating up and down to 2 rpm. It was making ticking noises
    from somewhere in the front end just 1 hr prior to the not starting
    problem. The cat converter is separated a bit from the manifold, but it
    hasn't caused any problems before other than noise.
    We boosted the car thinking it might be the alternator, it finally did
    start after an hour of turning it over. It almost sounds like it wants to
    go but isnt getting any fuel, though the fuel pump does kick in when I
    attempt to start it. Check gauge light comes on when attempting to start.
    After it started we took it for a spin and it chugged violently until
    speed reached 100. Barely got it in the driveway as it kept stalling.
    Antifreeze blew out all over the engine. (there is a small hole in the rad
    near the top, but it never blew out before). Idiot lights state the car did
    not overheat, but came close. Now it will not start up again...same
    problem. All fluids are topped up.
    Could this be caused by the fault codes I received, and if so why did it
    run all summer and now wont start? How can this be fixed?
    Update... Checked the oil, no sign of the chocolate milk it apparently
    looks like when theres a head gasket gone, and the antifreeze wasn't
    frothy either. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer, and am now
    getting all the former fault codes, plus a new one....43: cylinder misfire
    (according to Chrysler codes) SIGH......
    Could all this mess be caused by dirty injectors, a faulty spark plug, or
    distributor ? I'd just like to get the car started so I can get it to the
    city to a shop....Thankyou very much.
    cc
     
    creepycarrie, Dec 5, 2005
    #1
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  2. "creepycarrie" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Hello. I have a 1989 Chrysler Lebaron 2.4 ltr. It will not start.


    Wow, that's an amazing case of neglect there. The car was complaining to
    you all summer "fix meee, fiixx, meeee ahhhhghghghg glug glug glug" and
    now you won't even give the old lady a rest on a nice tow truck, your
    determined
    to squeeze the last drop of life out of her, making her drag herself into
    the
    city!

    The problem here is you have had so much neglect on this car that you can't
    even diagnose it anymore. With a hole in the rad, coolant is never going to
    be
    pressurized, thus your coolant is going to be boiling in the water jacket.
    When
    liquid boils it turns to gas, and gas does not conduct heat very efficiently
    away from
    a hot cylinder wall. You have been driving around with hot spots
    throughout the
    engine all summer, you probably shot your head gasket, and you have coolant
    leaking into the cylinders. You need to run a compression check on the
    cylinders, which is impossible now since you can't get the engine warmed up.
    And you can't check for a coolant leak because the normal way for this is
    to fill it with coolant, run it for a week, and see if the coolant level
    keeps
    going down. Head gasket leaks don't always contaminate the oil.

    I wouldn't give much hope of getting it started unless you tear down the
    engine, check and probably replace the timing chain or belt, and replace
    the head and intake manifold gaskets, and fix the radiator. And check
    for head/block warpage and cylinder dimensions while your doing that.
    Flushing the cooling system would certainly be a good thing to do also.
    Then after all that, check for spark and check ignition timing.

    Any newbies reading this - take a lesson, this is exactly why you don't putz
    around with a coolant leak, and this is what happens when
    you let it go. Small hole in the rad, indeed! What were you thinking, man!

    Ted
    ..
     
    Ted Mittelstaedt, Dec 6, 2005
    #2
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  3. creepycarrie

    creepycarrie Guest

    Hi Ted, thanx for your input. Hmmm...well what I was thinking was that as
    long as I topped up the rad and the car never overheated that it would be
    ok. This is my first "computerized" car. I've always had 70's Chevy's,
    and the rad was never really an issue as long as the car didn't overheat,
    so I didn't think it would matter...SIGH...wish they would bring the old
    carb systems back. Thanx again.
     
    creepycarrie, Dec 6, 2005
    #3
  4. "creepycarrie" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Hi Ted, thanx for your input. Hmmm...well what I was thinking was that as
    > long as I topped up the rad and the car never overheated that it would be
    > ok. This is my first "computerized" car. I've always had 70's Chevy's,
    > and the rad was never really an issue as long as the car didn't overheat,
    > so I didn't think it would matter...SIGH...wish they would bring the old
    > carb systems back. Thanx again.
    >


    It most likely has nothing to do with the carb system. As I said by running
    the cooling system with a hole in it for so long you were not letting the
    coolant pressurize, which means hot spots, and most likely a failed head
    gasket. The exact same thing would happen with a carbureted car, even
    a 70's Chevy, although a chevy small block has a larger head gasket, and
    so would take longer to burn up.

    You think it's a fuel system problem because the cylinders aren't firing,
    so your concluding the mixture is wrong. But most likely the mixture
    is fine and it's contaminated with water, plus you have no compression.

    I own a 68 Torino with Ford small block 302 in it and years ago when
    it overheated on me, and the asbestos-backed head gasket on it failed, it
    "chugged violently" too.

    I think you know what you did and you know what you have to do to
    fix it but it's freezing cold winter out and you are grasping at straws
    hoping
    that it's some easy and quick fix. I hate to snow on your parade, but
    as I said most likely when you tear everything down and fix the leak and
    such, most of the check engine codes will go away.

    Remember - the computer is solid-state and is way, way more reliable
    than anything mechanical. Electric motors, and even sensors, those will
    fail
    long before the computer.

    Ted
     
    Ted Mittelstaedt, Dec 7, 2005
    #4
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