front disk brake job; remove rotors?

OK, tomorrow I will tackle the front brakes on my 1988 Shelby Lancer. I have
done the old drum brakes on my older cars, but this is my first disk brake job.

Anyhow, the Haynes manual describes two brake calipers; Kelsey Hayes, and ATE.
I looked under the car, and if the Haynes pics are accurate, I have ATE
calipers.

The difference between the calipers is in the brake pad replacement itself. On
the ATE, it seems to replace the inner pad, I must remove the rotor, or 'disk'
itself. I am not sure about this. I recall that these rotors 'rust', or cold
weld into place, and cannot be removed easily. The Haynes manual says to
'unscrew retainers' and remove the disk; not too much detail here.

So, advice and opinions, please.

Thanks for your time in replying!

Bill
88 Lancer Shelby
91 LeBaron Convertible
01 Chevy Impala LS

 

On my 96 Town and Country I needed to purchase a 3lb sledge and I got a lot
of exercise until the right side came off. I never thought it would. the
left side came off with just a few hard hits. Tire Rack sells a pair of
reasonable cost Italian rotors that worked great and the rotors they sell
did not blacken the wheels.

Richard.

Richard.

 

The retainer is just a metal clip on the rotor to keep it from moving. It is
on one of the wheel studs. You can unscrew it or grab it with plyers and break
it off. The caliper sometimes needs to be removed before you can get the rotor
off. I never had much problems with rotors rusting to the spindle. Just be
gentle when you push the piston(s) back in the caliper.

 

Sledge? Was that because of rust, or did you not remove the rotor
retainer clips first?

If by "blacken the wheels" you mean from brake dust, I believe that's
more determined by the pads, not the rotors.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

I'm thinking that you were thinking "pads" but typed "rotor" on that
last "rotor. 8^)

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Clip was off. The rotors had rusted to the spindle. I put a little
anti-seize on the back of the rotor's contact point to prevent this.

Richard.

 

Well, I did my first ever front disk brake job. I had done older car drum
brakes, but never tackled front disk. Job went fairly well, and the car will
now 'stop on a dime and give you nine cents change' as a old friend used to
say.

A few observations and questions about today's job:

1) I could not jack from the front using the K member. This car is a 1988
Shelby Lancer, and the Ground Effects from the front wont allow a floor jack to
go too far underneath. I jack up one side at a time using the frame rail, and
placed a jack stand under the K member per each side. Seemed to work OK, but
the car creaked and moaned as I jacked.

2) The LUG NUTs used to have some crome caps on them, and most of the caps are
long gone. This makes using a 3/4, or 19mm socket, and/or lug wrench DIFFICULT.
I used a rag as a 'spacer', and it worked for the most part, but I am a bit
uncomfortable about the lug wrench slipping during an emergency tire change.
Any tips, or suggestions here?

3) My procedure was to open the bleeder, use my one man bleeder kit, and re-set
the caliper using a re-set tool. Seemed to work well.

4) The anti rattle clip on the passenger side was much different than the
driver's side??? I hope I got them on right???? The car does indeed stop great
and no squeels, or squeeks.....

Any comments, advice, or suggestions are appreciated!


Bill
88 Lancer Shelby
91 LeBaron Convertible
01 Chevy Impala LS

 

I think the "retainer" they're talking about will just be a tiny flimsy
thing on a stud or two. If it's still there. At 15 years old you probably
won't unscrew it. Break it instead.

 

Checker auto parts had the 'retainers' for the rotor. It is a 1/2"
'PUSH NUT', and you all are correct, I just broke the old one off and
replaced with the new push nut (BTW, $2.29 for 4 push nuts is kind of
high).
Thanks for all of teh replies!
Bill

 

Bill,

I've had the same problem with the chrome "caps" coming off the lug nuts
over time/use on other Chrysler vehicles. In the short term, an 18mm socket
fit the steel insert perfectly fro me. Over the longer haul, I'd suggest
replacing these. Should be able to find at the dealer or at auto parts
store if you want less expensive generic chrome lugs that would fit.

Good luck.

Bob