Engine Oil/Additives for high mileage 3.0

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by jmcgill, Nov 29, 2005.

  1. jmcgill

    jmcgill Guest

    When I changed the oil for the first time in my 3.0, the engine had
    141,000 miles on it. I used Valvoline MaxLife 10w-30 as the motor oil.


    I was wondering what the experts recommend for engine oil for this
    motor as well as their opinions on oil additives such as slick-50,
    and/or engine flushes to help prolong the life of the motor?

    Thanks,

    Joe
     
    jmcgill, Nov 29, 2005
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Guest

    On 29 Nov 2005 11:36:52 -0800, "jmcgill" <> wrote:

    >When I changed the oil for the first time in my 3.0, the engine had
    >141,000 miles on it. I used Valvoline MaxLife 10w-30 as the motor oil.
    >
    >
    >I was wondering what the experts recommend for engine oil for this
    >motor as well as their opinions on oil additives such as slick-50,
    >and/or engine flushes to help prolong the life of the motor?
    >
    >Thanks,
    >
    >Joe

    Forget the slick 50. If the engine is REASONABLY clean an engine flush
    using a mild agent like rislone or ATF can be helpfull. Don't use
    anything too aggressive, and not if the engine is REALLY cruddy.
    At that mileage I'd start looking at 10W40 oil - and do NOT believe
    the crap about 10W40 being no good. Just change it reasonably often
    and the "red herring" viscosity loss will never be a problem.

    In summer I always ran 20W50 in my '88 3.0, and 10W40 in the winter.
    Central Ontario, 240,000Km on the car when I sold it, still running
    like a champ.(had heads replaced twice due to the "normal" valve guide
    issues)
     
    , Nov 29, 2005
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. On Tue, 29 Nov 2005, jmcgill wrote:

    > When I changed the oil for the first time in my 3.0, the engine had
    > 141,000 miles on it. I used Valvoline MaxLife 10w-30 as the motor oil.


    There is no reason to use "high mileage engine" oils such as MaxLife, and
    several good reasons not to. They tend to be injurious to polymeric seal
    materials in the long run.

    > I was wondering what the experts recommend for engine oil for this
    > motor


    A good grade of standard 10w30 is a wise choice.

    > as well as their opinions on oil additives such as slick-50,


    NO!

    > and/or engine flushes


    NO!
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Nov 29, 2005
    #3
  4. Bob Shuman

    Bob Shuman Guest

    You waited till you had 141K miles on the vehicle to do your first oil
    change? :)

    Seriously, do not use the Slick 50 as it can only damage the engine. Stick
    to good dino or synthetic oil (Valvoline Max-Life or basic qualifies in my
    book) and use a good filter (I use Purolator stay far away from Fram oil
    filters). On flushing, this is your call. I have occasionally used the
    Kerosene flushes on high mileage vehicles that had not been properly cared
    for by previous owners and never had any problems, but I followed the can
    instructions to the letter and made sure I drained the old oil completely
    before refilling with fresh oil. As I said, I've been lucky here and never
    had any gasket leaks or major engine problems develop after doing the
    5-minute flush. That said, on vehicles I've owned since they were brand
    new, I change the oil and filter every 3K miles so have never needed to do a
    flush.

    Bob

    "jmcgill" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > When I changed the oil for the first time in my 3.0, the engine had
    > 141,000 miles on it. I used Valvoline MaxLife 10w-30 as the motor oil.
    >
    >
    > I was wondering what the experts recommend for engine oil for this
    > motor as well as their opinions on oil additives such as slick-50,
    > and/or engine flushes to help prolong the life of the motor?
    >
    > Thanks,
    >
    > Joe
    >
     
    Bob Shuman, Nov 29, 2005
    #4
  5. jmcgill

    jmcgill Guest

    I'm ignorant of the whole Max-life thing....I use syntec in my '66 VW,
    but that thing is my baby....for my new cars, I use whatever the manual
    says.

    If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend? I'm
    not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    costs too much.
     
    jmcgill, Nov 30, 2005
    #5
  6. Richard

    Richard Guest

    "jmcgill" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > I'm ignorant of the whole Max-life thing....I use syntec in my '66 VW,
    > but that thing is my baby....for my new cars, I use whatever the manual
    > says.
    >
    > If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend? I'm
    > not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    > costs too much.


    Unless you drive very short trips that don't allow the motor to get hot or
    tow large loads, changing every 3,000 miles is a waste of oil. Mobil 1 can
    be purchased in a 4 qt container for about $20.00 at Wall Mart and is go to
    go for 7,500 mile changes. Whatever you use go by your vehicle's book to
    select the proper viscosity and grade.

    Richard.
     
    Richard, Nov 30, 2005
    #6
  7. jmcgill

    jmcgill Guest

    7500 miles on an engine that already has 142,000 on it?

    I guess I'm just old-fashioned about oil changing.

    I assume you're talking about Mobil 1 synthetic?
     
    jmcgill, Nov 30, 2005
    #7
  8. Bob Shuman

    Bob Shuman Guest

    So the choice is yours ... You can continue to do 3K oil and filter changes
    and use regular oil dino oil, or you can use the 2.5-3X more expensive
    synthetic and if you take Richard's advice, go 2.5X longer. Doing this also
    saves you the cost of the filters as well, so on the surface appears to save
    both time and money. But, keep in mind that you will need to add oil over
    that period (at 142K miles, I'd guess at least another 3-4 quarts over that
    7.5K miles) and your oil filter will collect 2.5X as much and could
    constrict your flow of fresh oil. In addition, the detergents added to the
    synthetic oil will break down and lose their effectiveness over that same
    time period.

    Again, it is your choice and I know many people who follow the
    manufacturer's recommendation and change their oil at 7,500 miles and almost
    all have gotten 100K from their cars before selling them. (The exception I
    can recall came from a woman who did a lot of around town driving and not
    highway miles.) I'm just not one of them since I feel the cost is minor
    compared to the risk of waiting. I also only choose to use synthetic
    (Mobile-1 10W-30) in one of my family's 5 vehicles due to the higher cost
    and regular Castrol GTX or Valvoline 5W-30 (winter) and 10W-30 (summer)
    depending on what is on sale at the time. For me, changing the oil myself
    in my home garage is not a problem. In the 32+ years that I have been
    driving, I can only think of one oil change that I had done by a service
    center and that was because I was on vacation and 2,000 miles from home when
    the 3K miles came up.

    Bob

    "Richard" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    >
    > "jmcgill" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > I'm ignorant of the whole Max-life thing....I use syntec in my '66 VW,
    > > but that thing is my baby....for my new cars, I use whatever the manual
    > > says.
    > >
    > > If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend? I'm
    > > not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    > > costs too much.

    >
    > Unless you drive very short trips that don't allow the motor to get hot or
    > tow large loads, changing every 3,000 miles is a waste of oil. Mobil 1 can
    > be purchased in a 4 qt container for about $20.00 at Wall Mart and is go

    to
    > go for 7,500 mile changes. Whatever you use go by your vehicle's book to
    > select the proper viscosity and grade.
    >
    > Richard.
    >
    >
     
    Bob Shuman, Nov 30, 2005
    #8
  9. On Wed, 30 Nov 2005, jmcgill wrote:

    > If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend? I'm
    > not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    > costs too much.


    If you want to use conventional engine oil, there's nothing the matter
    with plain Valvoline or Castrol or Pennzoil or Havoline. If you want to
    use Synthetic, get Mobil-1; change the oil every 12,000 miles and the
    filter every 6,000 miles.

    "Synthetic blends" are largely a scam.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Nov 30, 2005
    #9
  10. On Wed, 30 Nov 2005, jmcgill wrote:

    > 7500 miles on an engine that already has 142,000 on it?


    Not unreasonable with well-chosen oil and quality filters (not Fram).

    > I guess I'm just old-fashioned about oil changing.


    Update your thinking!

    > I assume you're talking about Mobil 1 synthetic?


    That's the only kind of Mobil-1 there is.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Nov 30, 2005
    #10
  11. jmcgill

    jmcgill Guest

    If not Fram, what is the best quality oil filter? I've used fram in
    every car I've ever changed oil in, for better or, apparently, worse.
     
    jmcgill, Nov 30, 2005
    #11
  12. Steve

    Steve Guest

    jmcgill wrote:

    > If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend?


    I think Castrol oils do pretty well on most tests. When i have need for
    a non-synthetic motor oil, I tend to reach for Castrol GTX.

    > I'm
    > not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    > costs too much.
    >


    So don't change it every 3k. Use synthetic and go 7k.

    The big question is how big an oil-burner is this 3.0? ALL 3-liter
    Mitsus burn oil, some just are lucky and don't burn more oil than
    gasoline. :p If it costs you several quarts of make-up per oil change,
    then there's your strong reason not to waste synthetic oil on it. OTOH,
    if you're in an area where visible smoke will cause you to flunk
    emissions, then synthetic smokes a lot less when burned than
    conventional oil.
     
    Steve, Nov 30, 2005
    #12
  13. Steve

    Steve Guest

    jmcgill wrote:

    > If not Fram, what is the best quality oil filter? I've used fram in
    > every car I've ever changed oil in, for better or, apparently, worse.
    >


    Wix and Purolator are my top picks. Motorcraft and AC are generally OK.
    Fram is pretty much bottom-of-the-barrel with a lot of gimmicks to boost
    sales. I personally could care less if a filter has an "easy grip"
    coating on the end of the can and the internals are garbage.

    This link:
    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

    Gives a lot of good ideas about oil filter construction. Note that it
    doesn't actually test FILTERING performance, but given how really bad
    some of the Fram construction features are you can't help but wonder if
    much of the oil even goes THROUGH the filter media on the average Fram
    filter!
     
    Steve, Nov 30, 2005
    #13
  14. jmcgill

    jmcgill Guest

    Considering that I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick, I
    can't tell how much it burns. I've only had the car for 400 miles.

    If it doesn't burn much, I'll probably go the 7K synthetic route.

    I don't get any visible smoke anytime using Valvoline Maxlife right now.
     
    jmcgill, Nov 30, 2005
    #14
  15. Guest

    On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 13:13:36 -0600, Steve <> wrote:

    >jmcgill wrote:
    >
    >> If not Max-life, which brand is the best? Castrol Syntec Blend?

    >
    >I think Castrol oils do pretty well on most tests. When i have need for
    >a non-synthetic motor oil, I tend to reach for Castrol GTX.
    >
    >> I'm
    >> not going to use pure synthetic if I'm changing every 3000 miles, it
    >> costs too much.
    >>

    >
    >So don't change it every 3k. Use synthetic and go 7k.
    >
    >The big question is how big an oil-burner is this 3.0? ALL 3-liter
    >Mitsus burn oil, some just are lucky and don't burn more oil than
    >gasoline. :p If it costs you several quarts of make-up per oil change,
    >then there's your strong reason not to waste synthetic oil on it. OTOH,
    >if you're in an area where visible smoke will cause you to flunk
    >emissions, then synthetic smokes a lot less when burned than
    >conventional oil.


    NOT all Mitsu 3.0s burn oil. After replacing my heads (for the second
    time at 180,000Km ) at 240,000 it was never down 1/4 liter between
    5000Km changes using 10W40.
    With the old heads (replaced first time at 90,000km) it was burning
    1.5 liters between changes and killed the catalitic converter.
     
    , Nov 30, 2005
    #15
  16. Guest

    On 30 Nov 2005 11:53:22 -0800, "jmcgill" <> wrote:

    >Considering that I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick, I
    >can't tell how much it burns. I've only had the car for 400 miles.
    >
    >If it doesn't burn much, I'll probably go the 7K synthetic route.
    >
    >I don't get any visible smoke anytime using Valvoline Maxlife right now.


    If the cat is working properly there can often be no visible smoke
    with 2 liters per change.
     
    , Nov 30, 2005
    #16
  17. Steve

    Steve Guest

    wrote:

    > On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 13:13:36 -0600, Steve <> wrote:
    >


    >>The big question is how big an oil-burner is this 3.0? ALL 3-liter
    >>Mitsus burn oil, some just are lucky and don't burn more oil than
    >>gasoline. :p If it costs you several quarts of make-up per oil change,
    >>then there's your strong reason not to waste synthetic oil on it. OTOH,
    >>if you're in an area where visible smoke will cause you to flunk
    >>emissions, then synthetic smokes a lot less when burned than
    >>conventional oil.

    >
    >
    > NOT all Mitsu 3.0s burn oil. After replacing my heads (for the second
    > time at 180,000Km ) at 240,000 it was never down 1/4 liter between
    > 5000Km changes using 10W40.


    Its all relative. That's still a fair amount of oil (and a lot of work
    on the engine) compared to my wife's Chrysler 3.5, which has 238,000
    miles on it, never had the heads off or the bottom opened, and uses
    about a quart per 5000 miles using 10w30.

    The Mitsu 3.0 is a pretty tough engine (the bottom end is
    indestructable, and they rarely ever break a timing belt) but it does
    like its oil, and even the last and best with all the oil consumption
    "fixes" still burn more than comparable engines. I'm convinced its in
    the nature of the beast- probably the ring set design or the piston
    design, because it can't all be the valve guides given how many fixes
    they've thrown at that aspect of it. The 3.0 is kinda like a tiny
    version of a Wright 3350- feed it oil, and try not to think too much
    about it. ;-)
     
    Steve, Nov 30, 2005
    #17
  18. Matt Whiting

    Matt Whiting Guest

    jmcgill wrote:
    > 7500 miles on an engine that already has 142,000 on it?
    >
    > I guess I'm just old-fashioned about oil changing.
    >
    > I assume you're talking about Mobil 1 synthetic?
    >


    Well, I'm running 10,000 mile change intervals on my 3.3L in my 1996
    Grand Voyager that currently has 177,000 miles on it. I've used Mobil 1
    since I bought the van with 33,000 miles on it. I used 5,000 mile
    intervals until it had 150,000 miles and then decided I'd go to 10,000
    miles. I did this for a couple of reasons:

    1. It uses a quart every 1,500 miles or so and has done so since I
    bought it. I figured I'm changing the oil every 6,000 miles anyway!

    2. I'm kind of hoping it dies as I'm getting tired of driving it.

    3. It is a cheap vehicle to experiment with!

    Even though I still wouldn't do it on a newer vehicle with less mileage,
    I do believe more and more that changes at less than 10,000 miles is a
    waste of oil and money for my driving conditions. I drive 21 miles each
    way to work with almost no city driving. I don't tow, don't drive in
    dusty conditions and don't drive on all that many hills. So, I suspect
    that even 5,000 mile changes are overly conservative.

    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, Nov 30, 2005
    #18
  19. Matt Whiting

    Matt Whiting Guest

    jmcgill wrote:

    > Considering that I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick, I
    > can't tell how much it burns. I've only had the car for 400 miles.


    Have you tried checking the oil cold before starting? I've never had a
    vehicle that wouldn't give a decent reading then. Sure, when they are
    hot and haven't been sitting very long, they can be hard to read,
    especially right after a change when the oil is really clean.


    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, Nov 30, 2005
    #19
  20. On Wed, 30 Nov 2005, jmcgill wrote:

    > If not Fram


    Wix (NAPA Gold). Purolator. AC. Even Motorcraft.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Dec 1, 2005
    #20
    1. Advertisements

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

It takes just 2 minutes to sign up (and it's free!). Just click the sign up button to choose a username and then you can ask your own questions on the forum.
Similar Threads
  1. cosza

    Grand Caravan 2003 3.3 engine mileage

    cosza, Oct 23, 2003, in forum: General Motoring
    Replies:
    0
    Views:
    238
    cosza
    Oct 23, 2003
  2. cosza

    Gas mileage for GrCaravan 3.3 Engine

    cosza, Oct 23, 2003, in forum: General Motoring
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    221
    James C. Reeves
    Oct 26, 2003
  3. mike113

    Is higher mileage oil an good?

    mike113, Jun 6, 2004, in forum: General Motoring
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    236
  4. Nomen Nescio

    Higher mileage may not conserve oil!

    Nomen Nescio, Apr 30, 2006, in forum: General Motoring
    Replies:
    7
    Views:
    191
    Bill Putney
    May 3, 2006
  5. KirkM

    Oil change interval for low mileage use

    KirkM, Sep 4, 2010, in forum: General Motoring
    Replies:
    4
    Views:
    277
    MoPar Man
    Sep 28, 2010
Loading...

Share This Page