99 Intrepid-Routine Brake Job Advice

I live in Toronto, Canada, and am considering having a routine maintenance
overhaul of my 1999 Intrepid's ABS 4-wheel disc brakes done in sometime this
spring/summer. The odometer has about 80,000 kilometers of mostly city
driving and although there is nothing apparently wrong with the brakes, I
think it's time for some attention. I plan on taking the car to my Chrysler
dealer for this job, since I can't think of anywhere else which might be
better in the north-central part of Toronto. Is there anyone here who can
give me some valuable tips or information regarding this job so I don't walk
into the dealership blind?

Thanks in Advance,
Arthur

 

You probably only need fronts and if the pads aren't worn out why replace
them. CHeck your manual to see whether the fluid is supposed to be changed.
But if the manual does not call for a fluid change and the pads are ok,
leave it alone.

 

Is there anyone here who can give me some valuable tips or

You will almost certainly be told that you will need new rotors.

If you currently don't feel any sort of brake-pedal-pulsing or
steering-wheel-shimmy during braking, then stick to your guns and
insist that only your brake pads are to be replaced - not the rotors.

It will take lots of guts. They will probably threaten that it's not
safe. That they won't be able to garantee the pads, etc. They will
really really want to throw new rotors on - given the age of the car
(this is the rust belt we're talking about too).

If you go in there and let them have their way, it will probably set
you back $600, maybe $750 after taxes.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, you can buy a set of pads
for probably $125 at Canada Tire and do it yourself.

 

I agree - the rears very very seldom give problems - they see very
little heat (for warping) and very little wear (at most, at that
mileage, you will need pads on the rear - maybe not - but your rear
rotors should have lots of life left in them). Definitely the parking
brake shoes should need no attention (unless they've been severely
abused, in which case you would know it). (In case you don't know, the
rears have disk for service brakes and drums for parking brakes built
inot the same hunk of metal - separate pads and shoes.)

Take the money you save from not having to replace the rears and get
some good parts for the front. I highly recommend Performance Friction
Z-Rated™ pads.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

 

My rear rotors did need replacement when I did them a few years back. The
reason was not due to the minimum thickness, but was caused by severe
pitting which made them unsafe. Make sure you look them over when you
replace the pads.

Bob

 

Find a place that will inspect the system first. If you need front pads I
recommend ceramic (far less dust). Also make sure they take apart and clean
the caliper pin bushings and pins and put a good synthetic lube on all
bushings, pins and pad sliding contact points and on the rear of the pads.
Good luck. If new pads on installed break them in right. Take the car out
and take several hard stops from 50 mph or so and do not stop with the pedal
down until the pads and rotors cool off first. This transfers some of the
pad material to the rotor surface and prevents what is often mistake for
warped rotors.

Richard.

Richard.

 

Many thanks for your advice. It's very much appreciated.

Arthur