2002 300M window won't open

Discussion in 'Chrysler 300' started by Alan Beagley, Aug 27, 2003.

  1. Alan Beagley

    Alan Beagley Guest

    I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
    the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
    now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
    window refuses to go down.

    Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?

    -=-
    Alan
     
    Alan Beagley, Aug 27, 2003
    #1
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  2. Alan Beagley

    Bill Putney Guest

    Alan Beagley wrote:
    >
    > I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
    > the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
    > now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
    > window refuses to go down.
    >
    > Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?
    >
    > -=-
    > Alan


    It may be as simple as the glass sticking to the rubber molding in the
    top of the door frame. Break that seal and see if it works.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")


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    Bill Putney, Aug 27, 2003
    #2
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  3. Alan Beagley

    Alan Beagley Guest

    I was wondering how to accomplish that when I received an email from
    somebody else suggesting sliding a credit card between the glass and the
    seal. I did that all around the window, both inside and out, but to no
    avail.

    Am I likely to be able to accomplish anything by removing the inside
    door panel and trying to move the window by hand? Any gotchas in
    removing the panel?

    -=-
    Alan


    On 08/27/03 05:37 am Bill Putney put fingers to keyboard and launched
    the following message into cyberspace:

    >>I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
    >>the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
    >>now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
    >>window refuses to go down.
    >>
    >>Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?


    > It may be as simple as the glass sticking to the rubber molding in the
    > top of the door frame. Break that seal and see if it works.
     
    Alan Beagley, Aug 28, 2003
    #3
  4. "Alan Beagley" wrote

    > I was wondering how to accomplish that when I received an email from
    > somebody else suggesting sliding a credit card between the glass and the
    > seal. I did that all around the window, both inside and out, but to no
    > avail.
    >
    > Am I likely to be able to accomplish anything by removing the inside
    > door panel and trying to move the window by hand? Any gotchas in
    > removing the panel?


    When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M, the
    dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad spot
    on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
    door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the dealership
    owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to the
    glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.
    --
    Jim "Gramps" Shulthiess
    Rockingham, NC
    Red 1999 800A
    VROC #300, WARB #28
    NCVulcan #47A
    GAVROC #0026
    Zenriders #315
    TNVROC HM#43
    "Worry is debt you do not owe." ?
     
    Jim Shulthiess, Aug 28, 2003
    #4
  5. Alan Beagley

    Bill Putney Guest

    Jim Shulthiess wrote:
    > When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M, the
    > dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad spot
    > on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
    > door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the dealership
    > owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to the
    > glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.


    Jim - I'm curious - brackets re-bonded to the glass? The brackets are
    glued to the glass and are bolted to the regulator lift bracket, so no
    reason for them to have been re-bonded to the glass for replacing the
    motor/regulator for this problem (i.e., the glass would have been
    separated from the regulator lift plate by removing the glass
    bracket-to-lift plate bolts, replacing motor/regulator, and re-attching
    regulator lift plate to glass brackets).

    While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
    random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
    sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
    for that unrelated other problem?

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")


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    Bill Putney, Aug 28, 2003
    #5
  6. "Bill Putney" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Jim Shulthiess wrote:
    > > When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M,

    the
    > > dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad

    spot
    > > on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
    > > door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the

    dealership
    > > owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to

    the
    > > glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.

    >
    > Jim - I'm curious - brackets re-bonded to the glass? The brackets are
    > glued to the glass and are bolted to the regulator lift bracket, so no
    > reason for them to have been re-bonded to the glass for replacing the
    > motor/regulator for this problem (i.e., the glass would have been
    > separated from the regulator lift plate by removing the glass
    > bracket-to-lift plate bolts, replacing motor/regulator, and re-attching
    > regulator lift plate to glass brackets).
    >
    > While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
    > random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
    > sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
    > for that unrelated other problem?
    >

    When things finally got fixed right, the window didn't track right when
    going up. The rear corner would stick outward, above where it should
    normally park. I'd guess that all the pounding on the door panel to get the
    motor to work was more than the glue could take.<G>

    Jim
     
    Jim Shulthiess, Aug 28, 2003
    #6
  7. Alan Beagley

    Howard Guest

    WARANTEE?????????

    go to the dealer!

    h

    --

    In the words of the IMMORTAL USED CAR DEALER:
    THERE IS AN ASS FOR EVERY SEAT!
     
    Howard, Aug 29, 2003
    #7
  8. Alan Beagley

    Art Begun Guest

    My windows have been repaired about 4 times in my 300M.
    Weatherstripping, regulators and motors twice. So today it was
    finally hot this summer and the 2 fronts stuck again for a couple of
    seconds. Was thanking myself for buying the extended warranty when
    they finally opened.
     
    Art Begun, Aug 29, 2003
    #8
  9. Alan Beagley

    Bill Putney Guest

    Jim Shulthiess wrote:
    >
    > "Bill Putney" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > ...While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
    > > random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
    > > sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
    > > for that unrelated other problem?
    > >

    > When things finally got fixed right, the window didn't track right when
    > going up. The rear corner would stick outward, above where it should
    > normally park. I'd guess that all the pounding on the door panel to get the
    > motor to work was more than the glue could take.<G>
    >
    > Jim


    LOL! Makes sense now.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")


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    Bill Putney, Aug 30, 2003
    #9
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