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2002 300M window won't open

 
Alan Beagley
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      08-27-2003
I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
window refuses to go down.

Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?

-=-
Alan

 
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Bill Putney
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      08-27-2003
Alan Beagley wrote:
>
> I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
> the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
> now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
> window refuses to go down.
>
> Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?
>
> -=-
> Alan


It may be as simple as the glass sticking to the rubber molding in the
top of the door frame. Break that seal and see if it works.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")


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Alan Beagley
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      08-28-2003
I was wondering how to accomplish that when I received an email from
somebody else suggesting sliding a credit card between the glass and the
seal. I did that all around the window, both inside and out, but to no
avail.

Am I likely to be able to accomplish anything by removing the inside
door panel and trying to move the window by hand? Any gotchas in
removing the panel?

-=-
Alan


On 08/27/03 05:37 am Bill Putney put fingers to keyboard and launched
the following message into cyberspace:

>>I thought the 300M power window problem had been solved long ago, but
>>the driver's window on our 2002 model (no longer in warranty, of course)
>>now refuses to open. I hear a click when I operate the switch, but the
>>window refuses to go down.
>>
>>Any simple remedy, or am I going to have to pay $$$ to get it fixed?


> It may be as simple as the glass sticking to the rubber molding in the
> top of the door frame. Break that seal and see if it works.


 
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Jim Shulthiess
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      08-28-2003

"Alan Beagley" wrote

> I was wondering how to accomplish that when I received an email from
> somebody else suggesting sliding a credit card between the glass and the
> seal. I did that all around the window, both inside and out, but to no
> avail.
>
> Am I likely to be able to accomplish anything by removing the inside
> door panel and trying to move the window by hand? Any gotchas in
> removing the panel?


When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M, the
dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad spot
on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the dealership
owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to the
glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.
--
Jim "Gramps" Shulthiess
Rockingham, NC
Red 1999 800A
VROC #300, WARB #28
NCVulcan #47A
GAVROC #0026
Zenriders #315
TNVROC HM#43
"Worry is debt you do not owe." ?


 
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Bill Putney
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      08-28-2003
Jim Shulthiess wrote:
> When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M, the
> dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad spot
> on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
> door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the dealership
> owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to the
> glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.


Jim - I'm curious - brackets re-bonded to the glass? The brackets are
glued to the glass and are bolted to the regulator lift bracket, so no
reason for them to have been re-bonded to the glass for replacing the
motor/regulator for this problem (i.e., the glass would have been
separated from the regulator lift plate by removing the glass
bracket-to-lift plate bolts, replacing motor/regulator, and re-attching
regulator lift plate to glass brackets).

While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
for that unrelated other problem?

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")


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Jim Shulthiess
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      08-28-2003

"Bill Putney" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Jim Shulthiess wrote:
> > When I began having problems with the driver's window on my '99 300M,

the
> > dealer tried to convince that it was stickage. Then it was just a bad

spot
> > on the motor armature that a swift kick at the lower front corner of the
> > door panel would get it working, for awhile. I finally got the

dealership
> > owner involved, and got a new regulator, motor, and brackets rebonded to

the
> > glass. That was some 50,000 miles ago, and all is still well.

>
> Jim - I'm curious - brackets re-bonded to the glass? The brackets are
> glued to the glass and are bolted to the regulator lift bracket, so no
> reason for them to have been re-bonded to the glass for replacing the
> motor/regulator for this problem (i.e., the glass would have been
> separated from the regulator lift plate by removing the glass
> bracket-to-lift plate bolts, replacing motor/regulator, and re-attching
> regulator lift plate to glass brackets).
>
> While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
> random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
> sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
> for that unrelated other problem?
>

When things finally got fixed right, the window didn't track right when
going up. The rear corner would stick outward, above where it should
normally park. I'd guess that all the pounding on the door panel to get the
motor to work was more than the glue could take.<G>

Jim


 
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Howard
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      08-29-2003
WARANTEE?????????

go to the dealer!

h

--
(E-Mail Removed)
In the words of the IMMORTAL USED CAR DEALER:
THERE IS AN ASS FOR EVERY SEAT!


 
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Art Begun
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      08-29-2003
My windows have been repaired about 4 times in my 300M.
Weatherstripping, regulators and motors twice. So today it was
finally hot this summer and the 2 fronts stuck again for a couple of
seconds. Was thanking myself for buying the extended warranty when
they finally opened.


 
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Bill Putney
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      08-29-2003
Jim Shulthiess wrote:
>
> "Bill Putney" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> > ...While the brackets breaking (in which case the window flops around in
> > random positions) is a problem, it is not related to the
> > sticking-in-the-up-position problem. Or was that done as a preventive
> > for that unrelated other problem?
> >

> When things finally got fixed right, the window didn't track right when
> going up. The rear corner would stick outward, above where it should
> normally park. I'd guess that all the pounding on the door panel to get the
> motor to work was more than the glue could take.<G>
>
> Jim


LOL! Makes sense now.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")


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